Craz Subwoofer Pics

[rdlangston13]

I was thinking Dusty did but I may be wrong. It's possible I went up there, to Earmark, with a blank piece of starboard so it could be cut after the sub was mounted into it's final position.

I'd think you will for sure need to do it after the box is in.

yeah we went all last summer just looking at the box. not nearly as pretty as yours. we didn't even mount the box to the floor. Its so heavy it really doesnt move much but I am sure mounting it would be a much better option.

[RC_Hinojosa]

While we're on this topic of subs....have you guys had to put Dynamat anywhere? Since I've gone to the 2 KM10s I'm hearing an audible buzz/rattle emanating from the dash...like if I push my hand hard against the dash, it attenuates the buzz. I wedged a life jacket between the windshield and dash to confirm I wasn't hearing imaginary things.

I think some Dynamat would be the solution, I just shudder at the thought of trying to apply it underneath the dash without removing the dash itself. I only imagine the guys running the big dog subs get this buzz/rattle times 10...or maybe y'alls setups are so loud it's a moot point?

[rdlangston13]

While we're on this topic of subs....have you guys had to put Dynamat anywhere? Since I've gone to the 2 KM10s I'm hearing an audible buzz/rattle emanating from the dash...like if I push my hand hard against the dash, it attenuates the buzz. I wedged a life jacket between the windshield and dash to confirm I wasn't hearing imaginary things.

I think some Dynamat would be the solution, I just shudder at the thought of trying to apply it underneath the dash without removing the dash itself. I only imagine the guys running the big dog subs get this buzz/rattle times 10...or maybe y'alls setups are so loud it's a moot point?

We have a rattle from what seems to be the vinyl trim piece on the right side of the dash. I need to get up in there and check for loose screws or nuts.


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[RC_Hinojosa]

We have a rattle from what seems to be the vinyl trim piece on the right side of the dash. I need to get up in there and check for loose screws or nuts.


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That's exactly where my rattle comes from...the right side of the dash.

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[KG's Supra24]

We have a rattle from what seems to be the vinyl trim piece on the right side of the dash. I need to get up in there and check for loose screws or nuts.

That's exactly where my rattle comes from...the right side of the dash.

we didn't even mount the box to the floor. Its so heavy it really doesnt move much but I am sure mounting it would be a much better option.

.................... Look at Texas problem solve.

[Sssprf4471]

There are a ton of different directions you can take this so I'd start off by providing some more info. What all do you currently have? I'm guessing you don't have the factory sub? Are your in-boats powered? Tower speakers? I'm asking because you could easily overtake the rest of your setup without balance.

What is your rough budget? (beer or champagne)

I have the factory Kicker 800.5 driving my in-boats and a pair of KM10s in a ported enclosure, it sounds phenomenal but it isn't gonna win any SPL competitions. For me, it was a half-measure upgrade to get a little more use out of the 800.5 before doing something custom.

There are plenty of manufactured enclosures out there that will fit under the helm and pair well with factory or mid-level subs. Once you start looking at premium subs (JL W3/W6/W7/WS XXX, etc.) you are gonna want a custom built enclosure that is built to that specific sub's air space requirements and tuned to it's frequency response.

Another thing to consider is music tastes...ported enclosures tend to produce a louder output that travels well (great for rap/EDM/reggae), sealed enclosures produce a tighter response (think double bass pedal in rock/heavy metal).

There was a post on FB not too long ago showing some wicked setups...Some guys like Brett are running 4 10s, some run 1 W7, others 2 12" L7s.

Honestly there are plenty of options available whether you are just looking for a little more bottom end or are a true basshead.


Attachment 26737

I have the 6 Kickers that came with boat. Added 2 Rev 10's as part of deal. Now, the system is clearly under powered. It came from factory with a DXA 200.4 that is running the 6 Kickers. Then has a Kicker XM 200.2 running the Rev 10's. At this point I am going to stick with the 6 Kicker in boat speakers. I want to add a sub under the helm and proper amp to run that and the Rev 10's . Budget is open...let's call it an IPA budget. We listen to all types of music. I want depth to the music and do not need to make the water dance or the need to prove anything to other boaters. Just want a well rounded system that is installed clean that I can be comfortable with. I do have dual batteries. Would like to stay with 2, but am not opposed to adding 1 if needed. Any ideas would be great. Thanks

[russellsmojo]

This is the same box in the Supra with the factory JL sub, (just like the setup Russell is selling) even if there is enough cubic ft, I would double check the mounting depth as I imagine the XXX magnet & motor assembly is way larger than what that factory enclosure is intended for.

Yes and it’s for a 10 inch sub. Maybe the pro comes with 12? Not sure.


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[russellsmojo]

I have the 6 Kickers that came with boat. Added 2 Rev 10's as part of deal. Now, the system is clearly under powered. It came from factory with a DXA 200.4 that is running the 6 Kickers. Then has a Kicker XM 200.2 running the Rev 10's. At this point I am going to stick with the 6 Kicker in boat speakers. I want to add a sub under the helm and proper amp to run that and the Rev 10's . Budget is open...let's call it an IPA budget. We listen to all types of music. I want depth to the music and do not need to make the water dance or the need to prove anything to other boaters. Just want a well rounded system that is installed clean that I can be comfortable with. I do have dual batteries. Would like to stay with 2, but am not opposed to adding 1 if needed. Any ideas would be great. Thanks

Look at wet sounds syn dx6 for cabins and REVO 12hp sub. Then Syn dx4 for towers.


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[KG's Supra24]

I have the 6 Kickers that came with boat. Added 2 Rev 10's as part of deal. Now, the system is clearly under powered. It came from factory with a DXA 200.4 that is running the 6 Kickers. Then has a Kicker XM 200.2 running the Rev 10's. At this point I am going to stick with the 6 Kicker in boat speakers. I want to add a sub under the helm and proper amp to run that and the Rev 10's . Budget is open...let's call it an IPA budget. We listen to all types of music. I want depth to the music and do not need to make the water dance or the need to prove anything to other boaters. Just want a well rounded system that is installed clean that I can be comfortable with. I do have dual batteries. Would like to stay with 2, but am not opposed to adding 1 if needed. Any ideas would be great. Thanks

I agree with Russell. I think both factory amps will end up ditched with IPA taste.

5 channel for cabin and amp for the towers is a solid solution. A good quality 5 channel can leave you with 500-600 watts to the sub which sounds like is what you are after.

When picking the tower amp, I'd give thought to whether or not you will want a 2nd pair in the future. Easy to build for it now at a small costs vs scrapping an amp later and rebuying.

You will have several brands to chose from so what are your thoughts on matching? Want everything on the amp rack to match? Want sub to match towers or cockpit? Or does any of that matter.

On in boats ... if you are considering upgrading those in the future, it may play into your amp choice now.

2 batteries is likely adequate for 2 efficient amps.

[KG's Supra24]

Look at wet sounds syn dx6 for cabins and REVO 12hp sub. Then Syn dx4 for towers.


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Been putting together a system huh? That's a solid solution.

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