GI to reversible pump ballast upgrade

[MLA]

So are you suggesting I swap out the 45amp circuit breaker for a larger 100amp like this?

Attachment 26628

Would I need to go with a thicker gauge wire as well? My electrical knowledge is terrible please forgive me.


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You need to take the entire circuit into account. Even with the blue sea fuse box installed, the entire system is still fed with the same size cabling but now with a potential of 60 amp more draw. Those factor BUS bars are fine, its the supply cables you need to account for.

Those blue sea fuse boxes are great, I use them all the time, but making this swap does not solve your real issue here. I know I did not give you a specific answer, sorry, theres a couple puzzle pieces missing for me to do that, but youve now got some inf that will allow you to actually solve this on your own.

[parrothd]

So do you have those in an in-line fuse like what comes with the kit? Curious how your wiring runs from the battery to your switch if you donÂ’t mind.


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My first 2 installs I added new fuse boxes, the last install I used the wakemakers kit with the inline fuse. Much easier. I replaced the standard fuses with breakers(amazon link). On startup each pump can draw 20-30amps, depending how long they've been idle, the longer the more they stick. This will blow most fuses. I use the fuse breakers because they reset automatically. If you have other accessories(heater?) on that bus bar you can overload the 50amp breaker. If you make sure to turn each pump on separately you should be fine. Everyone once in a while I hit them all at once and pop the 50amp breaker. You may want to upgrade the breaker and wiring to 100amp.

[gregski]

You may want to upgrade the breaker and wiring to 100amp.

This is the key. A fuse/breaker protects the wiring and connected components. You can't just increase the breaker/fuse size and call it a day without also being sure that all wiring and components are capable of carrying that full current. You could try to live with the 50A overall limit like parrothd described which might just (barely) work, otherwise you need some bigger cable (there's a lot of factors: I'd use 2 AWG, but 4 AWG is probably OK too). Now, if you are running new cable, I'd probably just leave the existing setup alone unless there was a compelling reason to change it...

[parrothd]

I'm pretty sure I have the same 50amp breaker but I have 4 pumps. I can run them all at the same time with the heater, but it'll pop if I start them all at the same time.

[crr1876]

My first 2 installs I added new fuse boxes, the last install I used the wakemakers kit with the inline fuse. Much easier. I replaced the standard fuses with breakers(amazon link). On startup each pump can draw 20-30amps, depending how long they've been idle, the longer the more they stick. This will blow most fuses. I use the fuse breakers because they reset automatically. If you have other accessories(heater?) on that bus bar you can overload the 50amp breaker. If you make sure to turn each pump on separately you should be fine. Everyone once in a while I hit them all at once and pop the 50amp breaker. You may want to upgrade the breaker and wiring to 100amp.

So your current install with the kit do you just have all 3 wired directly on one of your batteries, then the in-line fuse breaker? I have all the wire and terminals to do it that way, just being stubborn and wanted the clean install look of a distribution block but realizing between new cable, new circuit breaker looking at 100-120 bucks and more work haha.


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[parrothd]

So your current install with the kit do you just have all 3 wired directly on one of your batteries, then the in-line fuse breaker? I have all the wire and terminals to do it that way, just being stubborn and wanted the clean install look of a distribution block but realizing between new cable, new circuit breaker looking at 100-120 bucks and more work haha.


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On my boat I have it you describe, but on my brother in laws boat the my most recent install we went with direct to the battery and used everything from the kit, fuses and all. Works fine to, if you go that route just make sure to secure the wires to the battery, you don't want them being pulled off when someone stores stuff near the battery.

[crr1876]

Just wanted to update you guys, I’m like 90% done with my install just wish the weather would cooperate better. Here are some pics of my dash before and after.

Before
IMG_0360.JPG
IMG_0361.JPG

After
IMG_0370.JPG
IMG_0377.JPG

Gotta give credit to parrothd for the idea on switch location and moving accessories around.

Couple of finishing touch questions, what did you guys use to tie up your vent lines as high as possible in the gunnels? Also did you secure your fill/drain lines with cable clamps? I was thinking of using these.

IMG_0378.JPG

Thanks guys



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[996scott]

On my boat I have it you describe, but on my brother in laws boat the my most recent install we went with direct to the battery and used everything from the kit, fuses and all. Works fine to, if you go that route just make sure to secure the wires to the battery, you don't want them being pulled off when someone stores stuff near the battery.

This is how did mine, I used the kit and wired all three directly to one of my batteries and used the inline fuses that came in the kit. I have had it installed for at least 2 or 3 yrs without any problems. I did move my switches from down low where the original switches were to up higher to the side of the drivers seat.

[parrothd]

Just wanted to update you guys, I’m like 90% done with my install just wish the weather would cooperate better. Here are some pics of my dash before and after.

Before
IMG_0360.JPG
IMG_0361.JPG

After
IMG_0370.JPG
IMG_0377.JPG

Gotta give credit to parrothd for the idea on switch location and moving accessories around.

Couple of finishing touch questions, what did you guys use to tie up your vent lines as high as possible in the gunnels? Also did you secure your fill/drain lines with cable clamps? I was thinking of using these.

IMG_0378.JPG

Thanks guys



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Looks great!

[Leebo]

Right now I have 3 reversibles - one on the IBS and the other 2 on 1100s. I put the stock GIII on the ski locker bag and moved the old 400s under the side seats.

I’m thinking abt adding 2 reversibles for my 1100s and plumbing the second pump on each side with a wye to the old 400s I have under the side seats (rather than buy enzos and have 2 pumps into each) and pull out the GIII (hooking the ski locker bag to the IBS).

So... has anyone wired the rocker switch to run 2 reversibles? I know the draw is too much for one switch but just haven’t figured out how a relay would work. I’m trying to avoid using a second set of switches. THX!