2016 Craz Winterization part 6. I give up!!

[sivs1]

Drain the block....






enough said.

[russellsmojo]

Wow. Is our forum turning into Wake World?

I think it’s not being on the water. Frustrations run high this time of year as winterization starts. Zanex usage goes way up as we transition from drinking beer at the lake to snuggling on the couch with our wives.


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[zabooda]

I think we all know there are different ways to do things to get to the same end result and then there are ways we do different things and get to a different result. I found through my own mistakes on this site that there are others with much more knowledge than me on a particular subject and called on the carpet by others here on it. I learn more from that than if I didn't say anything at all.

I never followed this thread much as I don't use antifreeze and until maybe 15 years ago very few people used it. The use of antifreeze was started by shops as people got their boats winterized by a shop and then take the boat out and never rewinterize and then go back to the shop with a cracked block and blame it on the shop. One method they used was to keep the hoses off and then have the owner bring it in the spring. When the shops went to antifreeze then they knew when someone ran their boat. The cost of the antifreeze was on the owner whereas the cost of a cracked block was on the shop so owners sort of bought the insurance policy.

It doesn't make sense to completely drain the cooling water and replace with antifreeze except to minimize corrosion. All a person has to do is to have at least a 10% void throughout the system so it isn't rocket science. The engine block and exhaust manifold drains real well which is the major repair expense. The hoses take the most time and compressed air will blow those out except the J hose. If you don't have issues in the spring you either did it right or you were lucky. Sometime down the road after some winters, if your process wasn't done correctly your luck will have expired. I've done this for 25 winters now and no problems and the boats have always been parked outside.

[trayson]

I think we all know there are different ways to do things to get to the same end result and then there are ways we do different things and get to a different result. I found through my own mistakes on this site that there are others with much more knowledge than me on a particular subject and called on the carpet by others here on it. I learn more from that than if I didn't say anything at all.

I never followed this thread much as I don't use antifreeze and until maybe 15 years ago very few people used it. The use of antifreeze was started by shops as people got their boats winterized by a shop and then take the boat out and never rewinterize and then go back to the shop with a cracked block and blame it on the shop. One method they used was to keep the hoses off and then have the owner bring it in the spring. When the shops went to antifreeze then they knew when someone ran their boat. The cost of the antifreeze was on the owner whereas the cost of a cracked block was on the shop so owners sort of bought the insurance policy.

It doesn't make sense to completely drain the cooling water and replace with antifreeze except to minimize corrosion. All a person has to do is to have at least a 10% void throughout the system so it isn't rocket science. The engine block and exhaust manifold drains real well which is the major repair expense. The hoses take the most time and compressed air will blow those out except the J hose. If you don't have issues in the spring you either did it right or you were lucky. Sometime down the road after some winters, if your process wasn't done correctly your luck will have expired. I've done this for 25 winters now and no problems and the boats have always been parked outside.

^^^^^^^^ My thoughts exactly.

[smorris7]

Drain the block....






enough said.

Unless it’s a closed loop! which all Raptors are!


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[sivs1]

Unless it’s a closed loop! which all Raptors are!


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So much to learn.... I have yet dealt with the Raptor motor. Where I live winter temps can hit 30 below, does the Raptor not need winterized since you don't drain the block? Am guessing there is still water somewhere that needs drained? I've been around boats my whole life, i'm on my third personal boat, the closed loop Raptor is new to me. Obviously your 2016 SE has the Raptor, but you're in Texas, yes it may freeze, but nothing like up north.

[smorris7]

So much to learn.... I have yet dealt with the Raptor motor. Where I live winter temps can hit 30 below, does the Raptor not need winterized since you don't drain the block? Am guessing there is still water somewhere that needs drained? I've been around boats my whole life, i'm on my third personal boat, the closed loop Raptor is new to me. Obviously your 2016 SE has the Raptor, but you're in Texas, yes it may freeze, but nothing like up north.

You misunderstood. I️ would never suggest not winterizing. I️ have already done mine here in TX. But you do not drain the block on a closed system... You will however drain the freshwater portion. VDrive, heat exchanger, fresh water pump. I️ was being facetious. People should know that the Raptor is a closed system without having to state it. If you don’t have a Raptor engine then his instructional post does not apply.


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[DOCDRS]

Unless it’s a closed loop! which all Raptors are!

Please note that these closed systems use a propylene/water mixture in the block and it has to be tested to verify the freeze protection and adjusted acording to your weather conditions during winterization. It may deteriorate with time and needs to be checked during the winterization procedure. Simple to do and necessary !

[MJHSupra]

Wow. Is our forum turning into Wake World?

Yep. Waiting for some MC and G owners to chime in. . . Ha ha


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[smorris7]

Yep. Waiting for some MC and G owners to chime in. . . Ha ha


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Or Exile VS Wetsounds!


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