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Thread: Build me a MAX

  1. #81
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    Posts
    388

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    Quote Originally Posted by russellsmojo View Post
    Are you buying this one to own for a while? Doubt you will get $2k back in resale as quick as you flip.
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    This x10! A person shopping for a Max imo is looking for a lower cost of entry, why jack that up $2k for some aftermarket wheels/tires. People have been pulling trailers with 14" wheels/tires for many years/millions of miles without issues. And how sure are you that the Max comes with 14's? The two I have seen come with the same wheels that my trailer has, so I assumed they were the base wheels.
    Boatless for now

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Commerce Lake, MI
    Posts
    2,145

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    IMHO that's $2000 I'd rather spend on boards, ballast, stereo etc.


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    2017 Moomba Craz

  3. #83
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    UT 6000'
    Posts
    1,481

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    Are you buying this one to own for a while? Doubt you will get $2k back in resale as quick as you flip.
    It's going to be the promo Max for my local shop, It's not a huge deal just would feel better towing.
    This x10! A person shopping for a Max imo is looking for a lower cost of entry, why jack that up $2k for some aftermarket wheels/tires. People have been pulling trailers with 14" wheels/tires for many years/millions of miles without issues. And how sure are you that the Max comes with 14's? The two I have seen come with the same wheels that my trailer has, so I assumed they were the base wheels.
    Talking with the shop when putting in the build we went and checked their current Max and it had 14's on it. I owned a boat with 14's and it took 4 years before I had problems. Now I did follow the max speed suggestion, not crazy tight corners, and off the ground when not in use. I personally think the larger wheels will look much better with such a big boat. Odds are getting larger wheels on a Max isn't going to happen.
    DFTR Josh
    Supra/Moomba
    www.marine-products.com (Discount Code: DFTR-1)

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    north texas
    Posts
    1,164

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    Promo boat then go for it. They would look really good. The bigger wheels change the cool factor for sure.

    And since promo check every box. Show people what they could have!!


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    2017 Supra SA

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    UT 6000'
    Posts
    1,481

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    And since promo check every box. Show people what they could have!!
    Pretty much did that...
    DFTR Josh
    Supra/Moomba
    www.marine-products.com (Discount Code: DFTR-1)

  6. #86
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    5,021

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    I don't know if your theory that 18's are better is valid. There's a lot of debate out there about using LT (light truck) tires instead of ST (special trailer) tires.

    The ST's are going to have higher and likely stiffer sidewalls. I think they'll do better for the sideways dragging that happens when you do tight turns with your double axle trailer. The ST's are rated to 65mph. The LT's are probably rated for higher speeds. You'll have to really look and see what the load ratings are on each version.

    the #1 reason why you'd go to 18" wheels on a trailer is for ASTHETICS. it's all about the looks. Also, the 18's are wider so boatmate needs to add 2" to the fender width.

    https://rvingwithmarkpolk.com/2012/1...s-vs-lt-tires/

    https://www.etrailer.com/question-59480.html
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
    www.TraysonsToybox.com

  7. #87
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    UT 6000'
    Posts
    1,481

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    Quote Originally Posted by trayson View Post
    I don't know if your theory that 18's are better is valid. There's a lot of debate out there about using LT (light truck) tires instead of ST (special trailer) tires.

    The ST's are going to have higher and likely stiffer sidewalls. I think they'll do better for the sideways dragging that happens when you do tight turns with your double axle trailer. The ST's are rated to 65mph. The LT's are probably rated for higher speeds. You'll have to really look and see what the load ratings are on each version.

    the #1 reason why you'd go to 18" wheels on a trailer is for ASTHETICS. it's all about the looks. Also, the 18's are wider so boatmate needs to add 2" to the fender width.

    https://rvingwithmarkpolk.com/2012/1...s-vs-lt-tires/

    https://www.etrailer.com/question-59480.html
    Thanks for the links, some really good reading and info.
    DFTR Josh
    Supra/Moomba
    www.marine-products.com (Discount Code: DFTR-1)

  8. #88
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    UT 6000'
    Posts
    1,481

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    Trying to get the side bins for the MAX, you can't pick them online so Marine Products is helping since my order is already in. I have to say the above the engine tray is damn awesome but I don't know how the hell you get it out, LOL.
    DFTR Josh
    Supra/Moomba
    www.marine-products.com (Discount Code: DFTR-1)

  9. #89
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Murrieta, CA
    Posts
    1,590

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    Quote Originally Posted by DFTR Josh View Post
    Trying to get the side bins for the MAX, you can't pick them online so Marine Products is helping since my order is already in. I have to say the above the engine tray is damn awesome but I don't know how the hell you get it out, LOL.
    Pop off one of the engine hatch struts on the lower end and you can then work the tray out and get it out. Pry the little cap off and then you can pull the lower strut mount off.

    I went the route of cutting access holes in the side divider panels so Incan nice the latches from the locker side and remove the side panel.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2018 Max with a little extra weight here and there

  10. #90
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    UT 6000'
    Posts
    1,481

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boonejeepin View Post
    Pop off one of the engine hatch struts on the lower end and you can then work the tray out and get it out. Pry the little cap off and then you can pull the lower strut mount off.

    I went the route of cutting access holes in the side divider panels so Incan nice the latches from the locker side and remove the side panel.
    Ya I didn't want to bend and break it so I just left it alone. I will have to figure out and easy take out since I check my oil before and after running the boat during the break in.
    DFTR Josh
    Supra/Moomba
    www.marine-products.com (Discount Code: DFTR-1)

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