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  1. #21
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    Jul 2017
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    22

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    Quote Originally Posted by kaneboats View Post
    Unbunch your panties. Guy's trying to learn as he goes.
    Dude, exactly. Thank you.

    It's not like the boat is waiting out in the middle of the river still, figured I may have a bit of time to respond lol.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
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    22

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    Quote Originally Posted by russellsmojo View Post
    Megatron does this help?
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5xMDWzUPk_w


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks for trying to help, multimeter is no prob though.

    Maybe I'm not being clear, or my thought process is off but I know the problem is not the battery itself because A) It's brand spanking new, as in never used; and B) The battery that cranks the motor/runs stereo does the same thing when it is connected to that wiring.

    So it obviously has to be the wiring. So I guess my question is what is the next stage down after it goes through the switch? Switch seems to be fine so it has to be the next connection point in line........would that be the alternator, or ignition? Something must have come loose after hitting some wake.

    At least that's what I'm thinking, but again obviously here for any help or thoughts

    Thanks!

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    north texas
    Posts
    1,164

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    I had a negative battery terminal pop off Memorial Day after some big waves. Elementary but have you checked battery post?


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    2017 Supra SA

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    5,019

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    Quote Originally Posted by MegatronSS View Post
    Thanks for trying to help, multimeter is no prob though.

    Maybe I'm not being clear, or my thought process is off but I know the problem is not the battery itself because A) It's brand spanking new, as in never used; and B) The battery that cranks the motor/runs stereo does the same thing when it is connected to that wiring.

    So it obviously has to be the wiring. So I guess my question is what is the next stage down after it goes through the switch? Switch seems to be fine so it has to be the next connection point in line........would that be the alternator, or ignition? Something must have come loose after hitting some wake.

    At least that's what I'm thinking, but again obviously here for any help or thoughts

    Thanks!
    What you're wondering is what people are telling you to do.

    You asked what's after the battery? The switch. what's after the switch? A breaker. What's after the breaker? A power distribution block. after that is likely a fuse box.

    And what MLA has been telling you to do is to start at the battery. Measure the voltage. Then measure the voltage at your perko switch. THen measure the voltage at the next point down the line and so on. What comes next in line is basically following the wiring to some degree. eventually you'll get to the dash gauge and the ignition, etc. But you already know that's dead.

    So, with a multimeter, tell us what the voltage reading is on your 'good' batteries. this will verify that they are in fact good and won't leave any second guessing. It's just reporting back to us on the results of various tests so we can eliminate various things that could be wrong.


    Also, in my boat, there's no accessories that are wired directly to either of my batteries. Everything connects at the perko switch or beyond. so that when I turn the switch to OFF, there is no power going to anything. That's pretty common, so if your system isn't wired that way, people are going to question it when you tell us that "your accessories are wired to one battery".

    I can see that you weren't completely understanding what people were suggesting that you do. But to them, I believe it seemed like you weren't willing to take the various testing suggestions because you were deeming them unnecessary because of various assertions you were making. Got it? Communication breakdown.

    Anyway, I hope I shed some light on this. The advice you've been given is sound. You need to start testing at the beginning and work your way down the line until you find the issue.


    We really want you to 1) perform a test and 2) report back the results of that test in volts so that we can give you our interpretation of those results.

    Just because the switch seems to be fine based on its behavior doesn't give us hard data (test results) to make a solid judgement on. Behavior can be misleading or miscommunicated. telling us the voltage reading when the multimeter is connected to point A for Pos and point B for Neg is a lot harder to be lost in translation.


    And since you're just learning, and it's hard to know exactly where to take the various measurements, if you make a list of all the various places you tested and tell us for each one:

    Location postive probe of the multimeter was connected to ___________________
    Location negative probe of the multimeter was connected to _____________________
    Voltage reading _____________

    and just give us a bunch of these test results, and the problem area will be come apparent. and THEN we can suggest things that could cause that area to be a problem.
    Last edited by trayson; 07-12-2017 at 02:03 AM.
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
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  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    22

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    Quote Originally Posted by trayson View Post
    What you're wondering is what people are telling you to do.

    You asked what's after the battery? The switch. what's after the switch? A breaker. What's after the breaker? A power distribution block. after that is likely a fuse box.

    And what MLA has been telling you to do is to start at the battery. Measure the voltage. Then measure the voltage at your perko switch. THen measure the voltage at the next point down the line and so on. What comes next in line is basically following the wiring to some degree. eventually you'll get to the dash gauge and the ignition, etc. But you already know that's dead.

    So, with a multimeter, tell us what the voltage reading is on your 'good' batteries. this will verify that they are in fact good and won't leave any second guessing. It's just reporting back to us on the results of various tests so we can eliminate various things that could be wrong.


    Also, in my boat, there's no accessories that are wired directly to either of my batteries. Everything connects at the perko switch or beyond. so that when I turn the switch to OFF, there is no power going to anything. That's pretty common, so if your system isn't wired that way, people are going to question it when you tell us that "your accessories are wired to one battery".

    I can see that you weren't completely understanding what people were suggesting that you do. But to them, I believe it seemed like you weren't willing to take the various testing suggestions because you were deeming them unnecessary because of various assertions you were making. Got it? Communication breakdown.

    Anyway, I hope I shed some light on this. The advice you've been given is sound. You need to start testing at the beginning and work your way down the line until you find the issue.


    We really want you to 1) perform a test and 2) report back the results of that test in volts so that we can give you our interpretation of those results.

    Just because the switch seems to be fine based on its behavior doesn't give us hard data (test results) to make a solid judgement on. Behavior can be misleading or miscommunicated. telling us the voltage reading when the multimeter is connected to point A for Pos and point B for Neg is a lot harder to be lost in translation.


    And since you're just learning, and it's hard to know exactly where to take the various measurements, if you make a list of all the various places you tested and tell us for each one:

    Location postive probe of the multimeter was connected to ___________________
    Location negative probe of the multimeter was connected to _____________________
    Voltage reading _____________

    and just give us a bunch of these test results, and the problem area will be come apparent. and THEN we can suggest things that could cause that area to be a problem.
    Gotcha - that makes a lot more sense. I'm traveling for the next week and a half but will do that!

    And I thought that would be odd it would be wired that way, although it's wired to an accessory switch for what that is worth, I'm assuming there may still some draw though.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

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    So I guess my question is what is the next stage down after it goes through the switch?
    Actually, we will just assume the battery is good, but you want to know why I have asked for the actual battery voltage at the battery with it in the boat? because its step 1 and establishes a base line for the remaining voltage checks. As stated, it not about a good or bad battery determined by anyone, its all about the voltage.

    Next, check voltage at the switch #2 input with switch off, again with switch to #2. If no or low voltage, see below. How do we know if its low you ask? Because we started with step 1 and measured voltage at the battery, rather than assuming its "good"

    As posted back on the July 5th, do a voltage drop test on the main battery cables. Both B+ and B-. This indicates the integrity of the cables. You, yourself, felt it was a bad cable or connection in your opening post. I gave the test on how to eliminate the cables/connections or pinpoint one as the issue.

    Since the boat operates when #1 is selected, this eliminates everything down stream of the switch and half of the switch. Somewhere between the battery and Common post of the switch you will likely find the issue. Again, you have to have a base line, which you get by taking a voltage check right at the battery.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    22

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    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    Actually, we will just assume the battery is good, but you want to know why I have asked for the actual battery voltage at the battery with it in the boat? because its step 1 and establishes a base line for the remaining voltage checks. As stated, it not about a good or bad battery determined by anyone, its all about the voltage.

    Next, check voltage at the switch #2 input with switch off, again with switch to #2. If no or low voltage, see below. How do we know if its low you ask? Because we started with step 1 and measured voltage at the battery, rather than assuming its "good"

    As posted back on the July 5th, do a voltage drop test on the main battery cables. Both B+ and B-. This indicates the integrity of the cables. You, yourself, felt it was a bad cable or connection in your opening post. I gave the test on how to eliminate the cables/connections or pinpoint one as the issue.

    Since the boat operates when #1 is selected, this eliminates everything down stream of the switch and half of the switch. Somewhere between the battery and Common post of the switch you will likely find the issue. Again, you have to have a base line, which you get by taking a voltage check right at the battery.
    Excellent - that makes perfect sense thanks! Exactly what I was looking for

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Benton, LA
    Posts
    198

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    There are realistically three likely scenarios since it works with the other battery...

    1) the battery is dead
    2)the Perko switch is bad
    3)the switch is wired incorrectly

    My money is on number 3.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2007 XLV Gravity Games Edition
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  9. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Springfield Missouri
    Posts
    3,391

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    #4. No continuous ground on battery #2. Easy check.
    1998 Mobius
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  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    3,952

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    Quote Originally Posted by Poison View Post
    There are realistically three likely scenarios since it works with the other battery...

    1) the battery is dead
    2)the Perko switch is bad
    3)the switch is wired incorrectly

    My money is on number 3.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I certainly wouldn't bet against you
    2016 Moomba Mojo
    2006 Supra 24SSV - Traded

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