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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Benton, LA
    Posts
    198

    Default

    I just made a similar mod, but I went the HPDE route. Used 1 inch HDPE and the template that 5:00 sent me (I think he said he traced a Craz platform) except I increased the size by 10%. Glued on some B-grade hydroturf. It just finished drying so hopefully I'll get some surf pics this weekend. I had the template printed at FedEx/Kinkos, traced it on the HPDE, cut it with a jigsaw, and had a buddy use a router to bullnose the edges. Original brackets. I think it turned out pretty well. I would have rather had black but it was cost prohibitive...the plastic shop only had white and shipping is killer on these.

    It does have some flex to it if I stand on the edge...there just isn't any support from the brackets that far out. I may trim it back a little or try to screw in a piece of square tube. I don't like that diving board feeling but I don't think it will break.

    Here it the comparison to the old deck.
    20170707_173945934_iOS.jpg

    Attached:
    20170707_175846304_iOS.jpg

    20170707_175852275_iOS.jpg

    20170707_175856444_iOS.jpg

    20170707_175906052_iOS.jpg
    Last edited by Poison; 07-10-2017 at 08:25 PM.
    2007 XLV Gravity Games Edition
    340HP CAT/ETX
    ACME 1235 / Fresh Air Exhaust
    1180 Front, 1100s Rear, 400 under Surf Side Seat, Homemade Suckgate, Custom Surf Platform
    Slingshot Hooke, Doomswell Neo, Phase 5 Hammerhead, Parker Surfcraft Phantom

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    5,021

    Default

    The white looks okay.
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
    www.TraysonsToybox.com

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Woodlands/Conroe, TX area
    Posts
    297

    Default Surf Platform DIY

    Has anyone ever just tested with no platform?
    I have been curious as to why a hinge isnt used to allow the platform to plane on the surface. It would be odd when stopped or backing up are the only negatives I can think of. A locking latch and or a spring could give choices.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    2008 Moomba Outback DD resurrection

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Morganton, NC
    Posts
    235

    Default

    We tested mine one evening by taking it completely off. In one word it's HEAVY!

    Back if boat is not square so hinges would have to compensate. Certainly need gas struts to help with weight offset. Complicated mechanism to hold the weight of person standing but then be able to lift out if the way.

    IMHO, much easier solution to have a smaller footprint platform. That said, as an engineer, I do enjoy a good challenge! I just wanted to spend my time surfing, not in front of the CAD box...

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    2008 OBV
    325 EFI with closed cooling
    Gravity III with 750's in the rear, 400 stock floor, 750 IBS
    Servo valve ballast upgrade
    Wetsounds Rev10
    JL Amps, WS420BT

    2000 Outback LS <-- Sold!!!
    310 Carb Direct Drive
    800# Rear Locker
    750# IBS (should have kept this for the OBV)
    Dual Batteries with 2 Bank Charger System
    Kenwood Head with Remotes
    Too many hours restoring exterior from prior negligence to count!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Woodlands/Conroe, TX area
    Posts
    297

    Default

    I was thinking the hinges would attach to the existing horizontal brackets, not the transom.
    It would be a challenge. I like those.
    Gives me a reason for all of those machines in my garage.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    2008 Moomba Outback DD resurrection

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    171

    Default

    Some of you guys are so creative, that's totally cool!! Great job!!
    2015 Mojo Surf

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Naperville, IL || North Scott Lake, MI
    Posts
    1,455

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aerolland View Post
    I have been wanting to do this for some time and hesitated over the material to use. Every project and upgrade I have done so far has been using aluminum, stainless steel and/or starboard - however, starboard in a sheet large enough for a surf deck was real money, plus a 2 hr one-way drive to get it. Not being sure of the shape, performance, etc I wanted to experiment with a few less $$'s invested.

    I started out at the SeaDek website looking at their Moomba templates, screen grabbed one from a recent LSV and imported into SolidWorks. Knowing 2 dimensions on their template allowed for a scaled drawing to trace into a solid model - this eliminated the need to drive 2+ hrs to my nearest dealer to sweet talk them into letting me trace a newer surf deck. The next step was to see how many sheets of plywood I would need, hopefully just one. The results were:



    The black pen addition was the estimated shape of the pad I planned to cut and install. (still yet to do...)

    I used 11/16" A-C sanded plywood, roughly $26 per sheet. Unfortunately I do not have any 'during' photos because I was anxious to get it together and on the boat for trial runs. I did reference some other members designs during the layout process and ultimately changed my dimensions on the fly since I could not get my SW license to behave at the house - no way to snap on the fly dimensions!!!

    Basically, the old platform was 69 1/2" wide. The new deck is 56". I could have easily made it an even 60" and it would stay out of the wave but I was unsure while building it. There is not much reason to need that extra 2" per side, but you have enough material to do it.

    I used exterior liquid nails to bond the two sheets together, however, if I had it to do over I would have used TightBond II wood glue - would have made for an easier assembly since it's thinner. The assembly was screwed (stainless screws) every 6" in a square layout. Two layers of liquid epoxy were then rolled on all surfaces to keep it water tight. After the first test, the seam began to separate a bit, not sure if the liquid nails was not done bonding (said 24 hrs was 80% strength, 7 days for full cure) or the moisture made the LN swell? Either way, I injected TightBond II in the small seam and clamped overnight - problem solved.



    Here is the assembled result:







    ...continued on next post...
    What kind of "liquid epoxy" did you use? Any issues with the paint bonding to the epoxy? And how well has it worked so far in protecting the wood from the water?
    Mike

    2013 Outback V
    - ballast: 900# rears / 400# center / 650# IBS
    - audio: Exile SXT9Q x 2 towers / Kicker KM65 x 6 cabins / Xi 12 sub / Javelin & XM15.4 amps / ZLD
    - FAE
    - DIY suckgate

    2003 SeaRay 182 -- gone but not forgotten...

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Morganton, NC
    Posts
    235

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mikenehrkorn View Post
    What kind of "liquid epoxy" did you use? Any issues with the paint bonding to the epoxy? And how well has it worked so far in protecting the wood from the water?


    I sanded the cured epoxy with 120 grit and then painted over. No issues with bonding, however, I do have wear marks from where I strap my daughter's tube down and from where people put wakeboards on. I attribute that wear to no clear coat (I will repaint and clear it this time) and the fact that I have not gotten around to installing a pad yet.

    The epoxy has worked perfectly for water protection, the only thing I wish I had done is use TiteBond II wood glue for the lamination. I am thoroughly disappointed in Liquid Nails, a couple areas have began to separate but I have been able to recover them by injecting TightBond in the gap and clamping. When I remake the platform that is one of the items I will do differently.
    2008 OBV
    325 EFI with closed cooling
    Gravity III with 750's in the rear, 400 stock floor, 750 IBS
    Servo valve ballast upgrade
    Wetsounds Rev10
    JL Amps, WS420BT

    2000 Outback LS <-- Sold!!!
    310 Carb Direct Drive
    800# Rear Locker
    750# IBS (should have kept this for the OBV)
    Dual Batteries with 2 Bank Charger System
    Kenwood Head with Remotes
    Too many hours restoring exterior from prior negligence to count!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Central VA
    Posts
    8

    Default

    I am curious is you did any type of load or strength test before you took it (clearly strong enough to handle a normal guy) out or if you were confident you wouldn't have any problems at all. Looks great though!
    2002 Moomba Outback

    2012 Tundra T-Force

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Naperville, IL || North Scott Lake, MI
    Posts
    1,455

    Default

    I'm guessing the brackets or pins give way before two layers of 3/4" plywood would give way
    Mike

    2013 Outback V
    - ballast: 900# rears / 400# center / 650# IBS
    - audio: Exile SXT9Q x 2 towers / Kicker KM65 x 6 cabins / Xi 12 sub / Javelin & XM15.4 amps / ZLD
    - FAE
    - DIY suckgate

    2003 SeaRay 182 -- gone but not forgotten...

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