Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 38
  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trayson View Post
    definitely report back. I'm thinking that if I ever change up my subs in the XLV that I'll likely do almost exactly what you're doing. a pair of dual 4ohm voice coil 12" L7's with the exile 20.1 powering it at 1 ohm.

    Although, if you could comment on the idea of just doing it in a sealed enclosure for simplicity and the necessity for a little less airspace, I'd be interested in your thoughts. I've been told that I can get ~3cuft if I cut out the footrest in my XLV, so that seems pretty good for a pair of sealed L7's. I'm sure that ported they'd want more airspace, plus I'm not sure my box building skills are up to doing a ported enclosure...
    How about 2400W rms @ 2 ohm and a wireless sub level control? http://www.kicker.com/kxa24001-2400-watt-mono-amplifier

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Traverse City, MI
    Posts
    2,680

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    How about 2400W rms @ 2 ohm and a wireless sub level control? http://www.kicker.com/kxa24001-2400-watt-mono-amplifier
    Looks spendy! Why does it have the same output at 1 and 2 ohm?
    2013 Outback V

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian ashton View Post
    Looks spendy! Why does it have the same output at 1 and 2 ohm?
    Using 2013 KX2400.1 retail price, it comes out to $.46 p/watt rms. For comparison, the xm20.1 is about $.38 p/watt rms. So very close.

    The amp is 1 ohm stable, which allows for the flexibility to bolt up to an existing woofer setup that might be 1 ohm. However, its rms is based on 2 ohm, which is its ideal operating impedance. If you look close, Kicker states that you may see a 10% +/- rms @ 1 ohm This because they built it to safely run a 1 ohm load, but designed its power output for a 2 ohm load.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Traverse City, MI
    Posts
    2,680

    Default

    I wasn't knocking it, I've had great luck with Kicker products in our boats

    I've just never seen matched output ratings and varying loads.

    That said, I'm not a stereo guru like you guys, lol
    2013 Outback V

  5. #25
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    5,022

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian ashton View Post
    They sound great, the 20.1 seems to drive them really well.

    I find it impossible to believe that you can only fit 3 cubic feet in an XLV - the enclosure I have in my OBV is 3.3 cubic feet plus the port, lol.

    I wanted the output and efficiency of a ported enclosure, and like the idea of being able to play with the port to tune it.
    I did some 'guess' measuring last night. and assuming what I could get based on not really remembering what obstacles would exist once I removed the foot rest, I'm thinking I'd have up to 4 cuft. That said, if I ever did it, I'd likely stick with a sealed because it'd be harder for me to screw it up and a lot easier to build.

    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    How about 2400W rms @ 2 ohm and a wireless sub level control? http://www.kicker.com/kxa24001-2400-watt-mono-amplifier
    Looks like a killer amp.

    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    Using 2013 KX2400.1 retail price, it comes out to $.46 p/watt rms. For comparison, the xm20.1 is about $.38 p/watt rms. So very close.

    The amp is 1 ohm stable, which allows for the flexibility to bolt up to an existing woofer setup that might be 1 ohm. However, its rms is based on 2 ohm, which is its ideal operating impedance. If you look close, Kicker states that you may see a 10% +/- rms @ 1 ohm This because they built it to safely run a 1 ohm load, but designed its power output for a 2 ohm load.
    My options honestly on power would be to keep my existing PPI P1000.1 and get a second one and have each amp going to an L7. Or I could sell off the PPI P1000.1 and power both L7's with an Exile 20.1

    I am leaning towards the Exile. I'm friends with Brian and could likely get a price hookup from him that would make the kicker prohibitively expensive. If the choice was a pair of PPI 1000.1 amps or a single Exile 20.1, What would you choose?
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
    www.TraysonsToybox.com

  6. #26

    Default

    I have seen this approach a lot. There are varying degrees of regulation among amplifiers. The ability to accept a 1-ohm load can add another product application in offering more versatility in subwoofer combinations. So it would be easy enough to decrease the supply voltage when terminating into a 1-ohm load and keep the amplifier in a safe mode. This would provide better thermal stability. True, no additional power at 1-ohm versus 2-ohm, but with every amplifier the supply IS limited. A better scheme than perhaps losing 35% of the power at 2-ohms....and because when is 2400 watts not enough.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Traverse City, MI
    Posts
    2,680

    Default



    Volt Meters mounted behind the grille fabric, so they are kind of hidden unless you look at them straight on.

    I might change this, can't decide if I like it or not.
    2013 Outback V

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Traverse City, MI
    Posts
    2,680

    Default

    MinersMoss floor back in and trimmed for the new enclosure, forgot to post this the other day;
    2013 Outback V

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Traverse City, MI
    Posts
    2,680

    Default It's been a while, here's my 2017 Stereo Revamp...

    I've never been super happy with the paint job that I gave my XM9s, and after 3 seasons they were showing some wear, so I scuffed them down and re-sprayed last night. So far they have come out much nicer than before

    2013 Outback V

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    22

    Default

    How do you attach the trim panel to the sub box? Are the subs screwed through the trim panel and into the sub box? If so, did u use a gasket or sealant between trim panel and sub box to make sure its sealed? Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •