17 Mojo Stereo Setup!

[TrueKaotik]

Not going to name names, but we just upgraded the OEM kx200.2, power cables and factory tower harness to a Syn-dx4, 4ga cables and 12/4. Boat left the lot with the Rev-10's and factory amp. The speakers magically didnt melt the small wire and speakers played just fine.

Now back to the actual subject. The size of the speaker has absolutely ZERO to do with the gauge wire used.

Since you clearly disagree, please prove me wrong. Explain how the size of the speaker, not amp wattage, dictates the wire gauge.

Its funny how we have circled back to that technical word you like, "big" I guess big speakers need big wires

It has nothing to do with me disagreeing with you that wattage (plus run) dictates the wire gauge. The XXX is a 1000 watt sub and MOST people run the SD2 which is 1200 watts. The sub is the same size as the XS12 I clearly mentioned with the 12 gauge comment, so the wattage needed was the reason and I think most seem that. Sorry it wasn't clear to you the XXX was a reference to power differences between the two. You need to spend less time analizing my post to find something not perfectly said to fit your constant need to bicker with me... The simple fact that you pointed it out in a derogatory follow up post shows your need to degrade me.
For the info on the upgrade you did. Kudos! Although, they do not come from the factory with the Syn4 and revs attached since you know so much about them. That was the dealer that short changed the tower set up possibly (if it was when they switched as Roswells were 16' with the 200.2). Prolly ordered the 17' package and kept the SynDX since the 16's came pre-wired with the 200.2.. Since the switch to wetsounds tower package, it comes with the SynDX4 and two Rev10's that again, the dealer installs now.. So it was more than likely done after factory by someone else and you fixed it. Sweet!
That is a new one if it did in fact come from the factory that way.... 50 watts to a rev... Bet that sounded nice and loud... hehe...

[rdlangston13]

David,
Only a minor detail but I prefer to slide the port to one side of the box so that the exterior enclosure wall and port wall on one side are shared. This might save 25 sq.in. or a little more. If the symmetry is in some way important to the finished product, then proceed as is.

As is I think i have like 2+ cuff of volume excluding the port. WS lists the spec to be 1.7. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to having too much volume? I put the port on bottom to make it more symmetrical and thus prettier lol


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[rdlangston13]

Ok so I put pencil to paper and come up with the volumes. The total volume of the box is 2.28 cubic feet. Minus the port it is 1.8 cuft minus the sub volume of 0.078 cuft gives us a Box volume us 1.722 cuft. Is that the correct way to calculate the volume of the box? You subtract the port volume and the sub volume from the total volume? I assume the length of the port is related to the frequency the box is turned at, so according to WS, the box needs to be tuned to 41 hz, how do you come up with a port length based on that?

[MLA]

So you used the 16 gauge wire in the tower? Or ran 12 gauge wire to the rev10s?


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We pulled the factory tower wiring, what ever size it actually is but felt like 16ga or 14 with a very thin insulation. Installed 12ga 4 conductor. Boat came to me with Rev-10's and OEM installed 200.2 already in place, so I know it had the OEM 6.5's when it left the factory. Amp was not installed post factory. Tower wire upgrade was dictated by the 200.2 to Syn-DX4 upgrade and not just because there was a big speaker on the tower.

[MLA]

true-K, you spend WAY too much effort in finding ways to be offended by my posts that dont even have jack squat to do with you.

and I quote rdlangston13:

Well not running a xxx sub but I figure I may as well run 10 now then if I ever upgrade I won't need to rerun any wires.

In his post. he implied that his wire gauge was based on the woofer, with no mention of an amp change. I offered him a more accurate method in determining the gauge, without making any assumptions as to what amp he may run. Makes no difference to me which amp he runs. Rather than give him a fish, I taught him to fish, so to speak. If he is entertaining a complete woofer and amp upgrade in the future, then as posted later, then that future amp is the one that needs to be used to calculate the wire gauge. Again, the woofer is irrelevant.

[David Analog]

Ok so I put pencil to paper and come up with the volumes. The total volume of the box is 2.28 cubic feet. Minus the port it is 1.8 cuft minus the sub volume of 0.078 cuft gives us a Box volume us 1.722 cuft. Is that the correct way to calculate the volume of the box? You subtract the port volume and the sub volume from the total volume? I assume the length of the port is related to the frequency the box is turned at, so according to WS, the box needs to be tuned to 41 hz, how do you come up with a port length based on that?

David,
Stick with the 1.7 main chamber that Wetsounds recommends. Let's call this the net displacement, without the driver displacement (which is probably about .075 cu.ft., and without the port + port wall material. So for an adjusted figure you might call the enclosure 1.775 gross internal without the port and port walls.
Within limitations, you can tune any port to any frequency for any enclosure size. But you wouldn't want to. The main chamber size is important in that you want the resonance characteristics of the chamber and port to be somewhat different rather than coincidental...unless you are creating a one note wonder which you don't want to do. The idea should be bass that goes very deep and is somewhat equal in amplitude at all useable frequencies.
The port length alone does not determine the tuning frequency. It's actually a ratio of port surface area and length. So when you change either the port surface area or length you must change both to maintain the same frequency. For changing the frequency alone once the enclosure internal size has been determined, there are on-line calculators.
Personally, I don't like a tuning frequency as high as 41 Hz. when you don't have a subsonic filter. I would modify this to 35 Hz. which means a longer port and thus more port displacement to add to your box. You'll have a bit less peak bass in exchange for a bit deeper bass, but most importantly, less cone movement with less distortion on lower notes.

So I know we are getting way too technical here and we've only scratched the surface. So I'm going to suggest that you take my comments and give them to Odin and enlist Odin in some of these finer points of the box design.

This is just one of about 100 reasons why people should be using Odin with Earmark Marine.

[TrueKaotik]

I agree with David, We have been tuning the Wet Sounds enclosures at 35-38hz as well instead of the 41.

[David Analog]

I agree with David, We have been tuning the Wet Sounds enclosures at 35-38hz as well instead of the 41.

Oh darn. I might have to amend my recommendation.

[TrueKaotik]

Oh darn. I might have to amend my recommendation.

Well of course...

[rdlangston13]

Got together with Cody tonight to get some work done on our sub box.


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