Zone control

[98outback]

Spoke with Anthony at moomba and he said inboats with sub come with the 40kxm800.5 and the rev 10s on tower come with the syn-dx4.

[MLA]

and the rev 10s on tower come with the syn-dx4.

Good to see them using some solid wattage. If you ever decide to add a send pair, you can swap the DX4 to either the Kicker KMX1200.2 or the Wet Sounds Syn-DX2.3hp.

[TrueKaotik]

Yes in 2017 they added the Rev10's/Syn4 combo. Since 2016 they have been Kicker Marine for the interior. What I mean by that is they actually use the KXM series instead of the KX like the previous year.. Supra and Moomba is coming back to the game with proper stereo components. As for "if" you add another pair, just add another Syn4 and Rev10's, I see no benefit to selling and repurchasing another amp to drop in wattage to each Rev...

[MLA]

I see no benefit

No problem, im happy to help out.

Although im a fan of head room and extra wattage, you would not hear an audible difference between a pair of speakers @ 800W and a pair @ 600W for starters. In the above scenario, the setup is going from a pair of speakers at 800W, to 2 pair at 1200W. That makes an audible difference, even with a slight drop in wattage on paper. The doubling of the surface area by adding a 2nd set, offsets that drop on wattage.

As to some benefits of a single amp v's dual amp;
Less realestate for a single 2 chnl compared to two 4 chnl. Not a huge factor if you are building from scratch and plan on a new, larger amp wall.
Less cabling, distribution outlets, etc. Small investment if again, building from scratch.
Splitting RCAs to dual amps driving the same zone, divides the line level into each amp. This requires a higher gain setting on each amp, in order to achieve full power. This raises the noise floor, opening the door wider for unwanted noise. Can be compensated with a line driver.

You have three solid options. Add that 2nd identical amp. Sell/trade the existing amp to offset the cost of an upgraded amp. This option just my be less expensive than buying another DX4 outright. Lastly, re-purpose the existing DX4 tower amp to the in-boats for a 2X increase in wattage. I like this move of one is looking for a more commanding bass setup and would be upgrading the woofer and in-boat speakers, and likely the amp.

Not at all against dual tower amps, but now you see some of the benefits previously unknown to you.

[TrueKaotik]

No problem, im happy to help out.

Although im a fan of head room and extra wattage, you would not hear an audible difference between a pair of speakers @ 800W and a pair @ 600W for starters. In the above scenario, the setup is going from a pair of speakers at 800W, to 2 pair at 1200W. That makes an audible difference, even with a slight drop in wattage on paper. The doubling of the surface area by adding a 2nd set, offsets that drop on wattage.

As to some benefits of a single amp v's dual amp;
Less realestate for a single 2 chnl compared to two 4 chnl. Not a huge factor if you are building from scratch and plan on a new, larger amp wall.
Less cabling, distribution outlets, etc. Small investment if again, building from scratch.
Splitting RCAs to dual amps driving the same zone, divides the line level into each amp. This requires a higher gain setting on each amp, in order to achieve full power. This raises the noise floor, opening the door wider for unwanted noise. Can be compensated with a line driver.

You have three solid options. Add that 2nd identical amp. Sell/trade the existing amp to offset the cost of an upgraded amp. This option just my be less expensive than buying another DX4 outright. Lastly, re-purpose the existing DX4 tower amp to the in-boats for a 2X increase in wattage. I like this move of one is looking for a more commanding bass setup and would be upgrading the woofer and in-boat speakers, and likely the amp.

Not at all against dual tower amps, but now you see some of the benefits previously unknown to you.

2 pair at 1600 watts compared to 2 pair at 1200 watts.. hmmmm.. 1/4 of the wattage gone per pod is audible.. "On paper".... But, OK...

If you know the boat, reason two has nothing to do with it but I could see it if you want to cut the factory amp rack in half and not add wiring to sacrifice output.

i know all the benefits for each, you and your sarcasm, you are not all knowing. In this case I suggested something you didn't and again you try and upscale your Opinion as better like always.. have a great weekend Mike..

[98outback]

Thanks for everyone's input. All ideas are good. I think we will be sticking to the single pair for awhile. I will probably upgrade the sub with a correct box after summer though.

[98outback]

So should I just go with the sq instead of the bt since I will be running Bluetooth thru the radio

[MLA]

Im fairly certain the that the Fusion BT200 is the blue tooth used. if so, then I would retain it. Its a good unit.

If you feel that 3 zone is all you need, then yes, go with the WS-420SQ over the 420BT. If you want the 4 zone, then go with the WS-220BT and you just end up with a 2nd BT option by default.

[98outback]

If I went with the 220 would all my adjustments have to be made on the amps first the just use the 220 for volume? But with the 420 I csnbfibe tune it at the eq.

[MLA]

The bands of adjustment on the WS-420 does not impact the tuning of the amp. Amp tuning is the same. Once the amp(s) is/are tuned, then the 420 does allow for tweaks to be made on the fly. If you feel you want those fine tuning/tweaking adjustments, go with the WS-420SQ. You can tweak through the head unit, but it effects all zones. With the 420SQ, you have dual EQs allowing independent tuning of the tower and in-boats. Cant get that ANYWHERE else in a single chassis marine EQ.