'17 Craz Audio Questions.

[dusty2221]

Yes.

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[MLA]

Are the 10s HLCDs less harsh then previous models like to PRO80s? Just don't want the guys in the boat throwing things at me cause their ears are ringing.

Yes. To one degree, there are no previous versions to the Rev-10 as all others like the pro-80, were 8" and the rev-10 is a 10". The larger 10" driver offers more mid-bass and deeper mid-bass extension to yield better balance with the aggressive compression driver. Even deeper than that, the Rev series is voiced at 3 ft for sound quality where as the old pro series was voice at 80 ft for pure projection. In other words, the Rev-10 as not just about wake range projection, but better near field sound quality, without any wake range loss. Yes, its still and HLCD, but FAR better than any other HLCD

[Rakkasan]

Alright guys just an update with more questions.

Got the REV10s on order last night(X-Mount with the adapters.)
SNY-4 at the house.

Will probably do the Sub and WS420 at the end of the season.

1) Do you guys think I absolutely need a second battery now. Ordered the boat with one battery to save on the price as I can always add one later. I know once I get the sub in a battery will be going with it but do I need one now. Will currently have 6 inboats with factory amp the SNY-4 and the REV10s.

2) Best speaker wire for the REVs 12 or 14 gauge tinned? Any links with a good price?

3) Best amp wiring? Guessing 4 gauge and what size fuse will it need.

Any other no brainers I will need to get this all up and running?
Automatic Charging Relay? Boat will be hooked up to a trickle charger every night.

Power distribution blocks?

Good RCAs?

Thanks in advance as this has become and all new learning experience.

[trayson]

Alright guys just an update with more questions.

Got the REV10s on order last night(X-Mount with the adapters.)
SNY-4 at the house.

Will probably do the Sub and WS420 at the end of the season.

1) Do you guys think I absolutely need a second battery now. Ordered the boat with one battery to save on the price as I can always add one later. I know once I get the sub in a battery will be going with it but do I need one now. Will currently have 6 inboats with factory amp the SNY-4 and the REV10s.

2) Best speaker wire for the REVs 12 or 14 gauge tinned? Any links with a good price?

3) Best amp wiring? Guessing 4 gauge and what size fuse will it need.

Any other no brainers I will need to get this all up and running?
Automatic Charging Relay? Boat will be hooked up to a trickle charger every night.

Power distribution blocks?

Good RCAs?

Thanks in advance as this has become and all new learning experience.

as far as RCA's and stuff, me and others have had good luck with these:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/

As far as the wiring for your amps, there's two predominate styles out here CCA (copper clad aluminum) and OFC (Oxygen Free Copper). CCA is going to be WAY cheaper and is what's used most the time in Car installations. OFC is the BETTER stuff and is what everyone around here recommends, especially for a marine environment. It's going to resist corrosion a lot better and because it's real copper (and not just the coated aluminum) it conducts the current better with less resistance. You'll get more power from your batteries to your amps and in turn your amps will make more power and do it more efficiently. OFC is a chunk more money, but if you're keeping your boat for any length of time and are at all concerned with "do it right and do it once", then OFC is the way to go.

CCA is cheaper, but in the end could cost you efficiency/performance and also durability. If you get the good OFC, you can worry less about having to upsize the wire gauge of your connections.


The 2nd battery will honestly depend on your usage. I mean, are you going to be playing your stereo for long periods of time with the engine off? Are you going to be cranking it full tilt that often where you'd drain it even while running? I'm guessing probably not. Honestly your biggest risk would be too long with the engine off and not be3ing able to start your boat. So defer the 2nd battery if you want and if you're worried about getting stranded get one of those portable jump start packs.

If you're putting it on a float charger nightly (most these days are float chargers, not trickle chargers as trickle doesn't stop charging once it's topped off), then you're probably fine. that's what I do. If you really drain it low, recharge it with a good higher output battery charger, because the little float chargers aren't meant to recharge from a big drain.

I think you made the right choice with a single pair of rev10's. you can always fade them down and don't HAVE to use them to their full potential, but they'll be there when you want them. Personally, I love to have music cranked, even for surfing. You'll want that WS420sq though, because they are so powerful that it's pretty rad to be able to easily fade them relative to the inboats. It'll sound kinda odd w/o a sub, but it's cool to take things in phases and to focus on each zone and do it RIGHT so you don't have to change things out later.

[Rakkasan]

Trayson, thank for the info. Checking out that website they might have everything I'd need the get started.

On the second battery, when we stop and hang out it's usually for only an hour or so and I usually crank the boat about every 30-45 the give the batteries a chance to recharge. I don't think we would drain it. On our LSV we had dual batteries, same ones for about 4-5 years with zero problems.

The charger is a battery tender. One in the house for when the boat's in the garage and the large solar panel one for when the boat at the dock.

I didn't really want the REV10s but after all the research I did and all the info from y'all with personal experience I didn't really see anything negative. There were plenty of options I could have went with but in the end this is a one time thing. Plenty of times when I was younger I did thing cheep to save a dollar just to spend more later to do it right. Never again learned my lesson.

[trayson]

Trayson, thank for the info. Checking out that website they might have everything I'd need the get started.

On the second battery, when we stop and hang out it's usually for only an hour or so and I usually crank the boat about every 30-45 the give the batteries a chance to recharge. I don't think we would drain it. On our LSV we had dual batteries, same ones for about 4-5 years with zero problems.

The charger is a battery tender. One in the house for when the boat's in the garage and the large solar panel one for when the boat at the dock.

I didn't really want the REV10s but after all the research I did and all the info from y'all with personal experience I didn't really see anything negative. There were plenty of options I could have went with but in the end this is a one time thing. Plenty of times when I was younger I did thing cheep to save a dollar just to spend more later to do it right. Never again learned my lesson.

Sounds like you're totally on the right track. on the Rev10, better to have more than you need with some in reserve, than to be wanting.

My setup is like you had on your old boat... I have a pair of Rev410's. Before that I had the Kicker 6500 HLCD 6pack, which was great for 90% of the situations I'd find myself in. I had a deal fall in my lap (like you and your WS amp) that I couldn't pass up. I got my pair of 410's with clamps for $1k from a buddy. And after selling my Kicker 6pack, I was loving life. I don't regret having "too much"!!

You're likely being WAY more vigilant than needed with starting your boat as often as you do. when you're not cranking, you can play your stereo for hours w/o risk of draining all that much. When I had dual batteries, I just had the simple perko and kept one untouched as a reserve battery. I rarely if ever had to use it to get the boat started.

That said, the best and easiest thing you can do is get a DC digital volt gauge off ebay. they are dirt cheap and you can get them rectangle or round. Install it on your amp rack, and just wire it to the Pos and Neg of your battery. when your boat isn't running you'll have a nice digital readout of your battery voltage and you'll easily see how much or how little you're depleting your reserve capacity of your battery. Sure, there's a volt meter on your dash, but having the stand alone gauge tapped straight to the battery is simple and effective. Lots of people have incorporated that into their stereo install. You can find them for under $10 on ebay.

[Stazi]

I put one of those digital volt meters on the rack I am building now. You can see it at the top right hand corner of the upper amp.

Waiting for one more amp and then I'm done.


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[Rakkasan]

I thought there was a "Show your amp rack" thread somewhere but I couldn't find it. Will the volt meter at the rack show what the rack is drawing versus the one in the dash.

[trayson]

I put one of those digital volt meters on the rack I am building now. You can see it at the top right hand corner of the upper amp.

Waiting for one more amp and then I'm done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's the exact one I got. Actually I got two. One will be hooked to the main battery(s) and the other to the reserve battery. I love that it's just drill a hole and mounts really easy.

I thought there was a "Show your amp rack" thread somewhere but I couldn't find it. Will the volt meter at the rack show what the rack is drawing versus the one in the dash.

Well, it'll show the voltage on whatever it's hooked up to. So if you hook it up to your main battery, and turn everything off, it'll show the voltage of that battery without all the stuff drawing power. If you are playing the stereo, it'll show how much voltage the battery is at with your stereo pulling power from it. If you then turn your boat on, it shows the voltage with your boat's electronics pulling power from the system (same as your dash gauge), and with the boat running, it shows how much output your alternator is producing.

For me, it's most useful to know voltage with either EVERYTHING off or with just your stereo running. The more is goes below 12 volts, the less reserve you have in your battery and the less likely it'll be for you to be able to start your boat. Likewise, the lower it goes below 12 volts, the less power your amps will make if you are cranking them hard... But in most of our scenarios, we simply want to know how fast we're draining our battery with stereo or how much we have "left" before we start to get nervous about being stranded.

[MLA]

I thought there was a "Show your amp rack" thread somewhere but I couldn't find it. Will the volt meter at the rack show what the rack is drawing versus the one in the dash.

It will show the voltage of what ever battery bank you have the gauge wired to.