Cap and rotor replacement.

[bzubke1]

Would an automotive cap and rotor work fine? I can get one for a chevy truck for $25 with brass contacts vs paying $80 for the marine version.

[trayson]

Would an automotive cap and rotor work fine? I can get one for a chevy truck for $25 with brass contacts vs paying $80 for the marine version.

I threw a automotive cap and rotor in mine because it's what I could find in a pinch. it's working fine and mine doesn't even have the brass. I just figure on mine that I'll replace it sooner. That said, if you have brass, then I'd do it and not look back. Many people have done the same.

[gregski]

NO, NO, NO.

It could "work" just fine, but these are exactly the kind of parts that must be marine rated (explosion proof). If anything ever happened that you had a bit of fuel vapor in the bilge, this would be your spark source and then big boom. If you are in a pinch and need to get off the water, then by all means use an auto parts store part, leave the cover open for a long time and then start it with fire extinguisher in hand but I wouldn't want to do it more than once.

[lee]

NO, NO, NO.

It could "work" just fine, but these are exactly the kind of parts that must be marine rated (explosion proof). If anything ever happened that you had a bit of fuel vapor in the bilge, this would be your spark source and then big boom. If you are in a pinch and need to get off the water, then by all means use an auto parts store part, leave the cover open for a long time and then start it with fire extinguisher in hand but I wouldn't want to do it more than once.

He is talking about just a cap and rotor not the complete distributor.

[gregski]

He is talking about just a cap and rotor not the complete distributor.

The cap and rotor is exactly where the spark happens every time a cylinder fires. Isn't the cap modified to be sealed?

[trayson]

Here's corroded the "marine" cap that was on my XLV. just attached to the distrib with 2 screws. nothing to seal anything...