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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

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    Quote Originally Posted by aapwayneo2001 View Post
    The wrong way...lol when I had my DD I hooked a hose to the water pump and let the engine pull the antifreeze in and circulated it from the exhaust...thought this would work the same but obviously not...I guess the water flows from intake-vdrive-engine
    I dont mean this to rub salt in the wound, but this needs to be a reminder to many, that marine/RV antifreeze is not meant to diluted. You cant run this stuff through a drive train thats stiff full of lake water and it protect against freezing.

    Do drive this point home even deeper, those reading nead to realize that the state of NC has some real mild winters compared to other parts of the country.

    This is not a v-drive v's DD, its not a ford v's chevy blosk thing, its not a PCM, Merc or Indmar thing. Its a dont dilute marine AF. drain the entire system, period! Then if you feel the need, induce some pink antifreeze.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    170

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    I assumed I got it drained...Unfortunately this is an expensive mistake
    Last edited by aapwayneo2001; 12-13-2016 at 10:13 PM.
    2008 Outback<-----SOLD
    2009 Mobius LSV

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Middle TN
    Posts
    148

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    "Star briteŽ Wintersafe -50°F (-46°C) Non-Toxic Antifreeze provides excellent cold weather and corrosion protection for drinking water systems and all engines at an attractive price. Its premium additive package prevents corrosion of aluminum, copper, brass and solder, but will not harm rubber, seals or hose materials. The 3X-died pink color provides excellent blow-through visibility. Formulated with virgin, non-toxic USP-grade ingredients. It contains no alcohols. This product is ready-to-use; do not dilute it."

    http://www.starbrite.com/item/winter...ategory_id=713

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    170

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    Oh well $4K down the crapper
    2008 Outback<-----SOLD
    2009 Mobius LSV

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    2,259

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    Quote Originally Posted by aapwayneo2001 View Post
    Oh well $4K down the crapper
    IF YOU FOLLOW THE MANUAL............you will not go wrong......as above..... first and most important is to drain and poke the block drain plugs period , then drain exhaust ,jtube, vdrive and impeller..........period
    09 21v LAUNCH

    99 Outback LS. Sold


    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    1,395

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    Well I try to give advice along those lines and some of the Canadian's tell me to soak the plugs (wd40) and threads and leave them out. I left them out one time 20 years ago (NO wd40) and never did it without immediately reinstalling my plugs since. @Docdrs
    -Jake

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    2,259

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    Quote Originally Posted by beat taco View Post
    Well I try to give advice along those lines and some of the Canadian's tell me to soak the plugs (wd40) and threads and leave them out. I left them out one time 20 years ago (NO wd40) and never did it without immediately reinstalling my plugs since. @Docdrs
    Good point ^^^^^^^

    Yes I always reinstall the plugs too, (with anti seize) as well, as the threads can corrode over the winter and then may need re tapping or if your not careful you can cross thread the plug. On older models , non knock sensor, they some time have drain cocks and when i was draining one year things didn't seem right, so I poked the hole with a wire, as during draining internal block rust plugged the hole and was preventing normal draining from the block. Once you see the amount of deposits coming out you will do this every time to ensure full block drainage
    09 21v LAUNCH

    99 Outback LS. Sold


    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    5,019

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    That really sucks.

    Seems like this would be a good reason to simply drain the block and hoses and leave it. I tend to fall into the camp that if there's no substantial water left in the block, then there's nothing to freeze and crack...
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
    www.TraysonsToybox.com

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Park City, Utah
    Posts
    1,291

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    This was a bad year for me regarding timing. I drained the block myself but did not have time to finish draining everything else so just broke down and took the boat to the shop one morning on the way to work and had them do it.

    I always would just drain everything and put it back together ready to run, no AF left in the block or hoses. There are so many ways people winterize, the key is get all the water out.
    2017 Centurion Ri237
    2013 Supra SA450 - Sold
    2006 Mobius LSV - Sold
    2004 Stingray 190LS - Sold
    2016 Nissan Titan XD - Tow Rig

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Springfield Missouri
    Posts
    3,391

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    If the boat has petcocks, get rid of them and put in drain plugs. Petcocks will not completely drain the block if there is silt and sand as the opening is small. If you use petcocks, it is known to always run a wire into them at the end to make sure.

    The main reason antifreeze use was started not too long ago by the boat servicing places to ensure customers didn't invalidate the winterization process. There were instances where boats were winterized at the shop and for many reasons owners would dewinterize the boat and fail to re-winterize and crack the block. They would blame the shop for not winterizing correctly. The next thing they did was to winterize and leave the hoses off and then the owner would come back in the spring to get everything connected back up. I'm not so sure how successful that was as shops went to the antifreeze method as a sure way to protect themselves. It wasn't necessarily a better method but it protected their pocketbook.

    So we have two methods of winterization which both methods need to be done correctly for it to be effective. I have always drained my engine on all my boats without a problem. Unlike using antifreeze, draining is not an exact science as there needs to be only a 10% void in all the spaces to account for expansion. Antifreeze cannot be diluted as that method doesn't allow for expansion. Shops can run large amounts of antifreeze through the system and check the concentration on the output. One advantage of antifreeze is less internal corrosion.
    1998 Mobius
    310 HP PCM
    SOLD

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