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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Park City, Utah
    Posts
    1,291

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    This is becoming a funny thread to watch, useful but funny. I typically do my own as well, here's why: I try to stay on the water long into the fall and when it get's cold here it comes fast. My dealer is located 3,000 feet below my elevation and gets slammed. Because I try and get every bit of boating in I can during my shorter season i don't want my boat to freeze while sitting in line at the dealer.

    My father's family use to own a marina and he taught me how to do it, my SA is much different than my LSV which is much different than my Stingray was. BTW, antifreeze will freeze if it get's cold enough, I don't use it and I know a number of people in the higher elevations that do not use it for that reason.
    2017 Centurion Ri237
    2013 Supra SA450 - Sold
    2006 Mobius LSV - Sold
    2004 Stingray 190LS - Sold
    2016 Nissan Titan XD - Tow Rig

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    13

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    So my boat is a 2015 Mondo. I have done everything on the check list. However, my manifolds have a 90 degree threaded plug and a hose that's connected to them, which leads to a T on top of the transmission and then down. I read somewhere that some have "self emptying" manifolds. I imagine mine is set up this way? None the less, I disconnected the hose at the T and got a little water out on both sides, but not a whole lot. Can anyone comment who has this set up?

    The most water I had drain was out of the trans, and heat exchanger. Btw, I only had one plug on my exchanger, nowhere is the little plastic plug in the pictures that's floating around. My heat exchanger looks a little different then the photo as well.

    I emptied my ballast bags and wiped them down. Cycled the pumps with the bags detached. I used a little rv antifreeze in the bottom hose and reconnected the bags and cycled the pumps again. Then I disconnected the bags again and used a shop vac to both blow the lines out, and I also sucked them out as well at the bottom / back connection.

    Put stable into the tank and removed the battery. Then I cracked a cold one.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Park City, Utah
    Posts
    1,291

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wolfeman131 View Post
    really?

    for me, $285 is cheap insurance against a cracked block on a $5,000+ motor
    Maybe you have better connections, just dropped the SA off at the dealer as I don't have time this year. I seriously fell out of my chair when he told me the price.
    2017 Centurion Ri237
    2013 Supra SA450 - Sold
    2006 Mobius LSV - Sold
    2004 Stingray 190LS - Sold
    2016 Nissan Titan XD - Tow Rig

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Snellville, GA & Lake Sinclair
    Posts
    8,419

    Default

    Maybe so, but the $285 is what the OP posted the cost for his winterization would cost.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Park City, Utah
    Posts
    1,291

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wolfeman131 View Post
    Maybe so, but the $285 is what the OP posted the cost for his winterization would cost.
    $285 would be a bargain, I wish I could pay only that.
    2017 Centurion Ri237
    2013 Supra SA450 - Sold
    2006 Mobius LSV - Sold
    2004 Stingray 190LS - Sold
    2016 Nissan Titan XD - Tow Rig

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