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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Dallas, TX
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    145

    Default Boat trailer wood replacement.

    Last week I launched my moomba and noticed one of boards from the trailer is floating. Got the trailer to flat ground got underneath trailer and noticed the bolts were gone and the wood is too wallowed to put new bolts in so I was going to replace everything.
    What wood is recommended?
    Is it better to install the bolts from under trailer to wood planks or through top and use nuts to hold it down to frame of trailer? Do I need to coat the wood with adhesive or just use staple gun?

    Thanks for reading

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Springfield Missouri
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    3,392

    Default

    Copy your existing boards and make them up the same way.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
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    Dallas, TX
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zabooda View Post
    Copy your existing boards and make them up the same way.
    What wood is typically used? Should I use glue or staples?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Ennis, TX
    Posts
    841

    Default Boat trailer wood replacement.

    Quote Originally Posted by Leirhiht View Post
    What wood is typically used? Should I use glue or staples?
    Both. Use spray on adhesive and use stainless staples on the bottom of the boards. Use treated lumber.


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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
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    Have to echo the above post. Adhesive keeps your carpet from separating from bunks and "floating" when wet such that you develop ripples or kinks. Will last longer. Stainless or at least "Morel" staples are recommended as they will last much longer. Use green treated lumber and pattern your new ones after the old ones.

    You can bolt from the top but it is kind of hard because you have to countersink bolt heads before you carpet and may not be able to tighten them down after the carpet is on there. The alternative is to launch the boat and have everything ready to go to change out your bunks. Have bunks already carpeted and just switch out the lag bolts with the right length ones. A fully charged drill/driver with the right head socket helps a lot.

    I have done it both ways. Floated the boat off and tied up then spent an hour changing out bunks and then wrapping carpet and stapling. I have also lifted one side of the boat in the garage, removed a bunk, lowered onto new bunk, then lifted other side of boat and replaced bunks on that side. Did not do this with my LSV but with much lighter boats in the past. The key is to spread out the weight with plywood, 2x6 and a good plan for jacking one side up.

    I like working in the garage with my air tools and air stapler better than at the ramp with a hand staple gun. Best to have a good plan and execute it.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Benton, LA
    Posts
    198

    Default

    The exact type of wood is not really important as long as the wood is treated. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and just buy the treated lumber that matches the dimensions of the current bunks then cut to length (and miter one end to a 45 degree angle if you want). You can also get the carpet at the same store, just get outdoor carpet in a color that matches and cut to size. Follow the advice above for attaching the carpet. The spray glue from 3M works well. The whole process is really not that difficult or daunting, except for having to get the boat off of the trailer. A second set of hands will speed up the process. My wife and I knocked it out in about 2-3 hours including cutting and carpeting after removing the boat.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
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    14,071

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    Another point is it is a good idea to inspect your bunks a few times a season after you park the truck with the empty trailer. Look for bunched or torn carpet, soft spots, missing or loose lag bolts, etc.
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV (sold)
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    LLTR!!!!!!!!



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