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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    149

    Default Those of you who have the Kicker Dual Zone Control.....

    Where are you connecting the power and ground?

    I've been jumping from one of the amplifiers, but with 4 AWG cables going to the amp, it's getting pretty crowded.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
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    2,467

    Default

    The rule is, all audio equipment needs to share the same battery source. The easy places to obtain this for the head-unit or other periprial like an EQ or zone control, is right at the amp's power cable terminals. If you only have one and and the head unit yellow and black are already piggybacked in with those amp cables, then splice the zone control in to the head-unit harness behind the head unit. Theres already a splice/connection there, just redo it to add the zone control wires.

    Just note though, if you have more than one amp, DO NOT jump the 2nd amp's power cables from the first amp. That may be one reason why its too crowded to slip in an 18ga zone control wire.

    The next best spot is at your power cable distribution blocks if you have multiple amps. However, some OEM milti-amp installs are wired with each amp making a home run to the source. Refer to the first and 2nd options then.

    You can run the zone control back to the battery NEG post and POS post or switch C post, however, this adds another ring terminal on what is already a crowded post. Creating a splice junction somewhere else is better.

    In some larger systems where we may have 3-4 amps, and EQ/zone control, relays, LEDs, etc, then we like to mount and wire up and BUS bar thats fed by the main audio B+ and B-. Then this gives you multiple points to terminal lots of devices without overcrowding a single point or splice.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    149

    Default

    thanks for the input.

    I do have a positive bus bar connected to a perko. Guess I'll just run the pos of the zone control to that.

    2nd amp is connected to a distribution block (one of those Tsunami's with a volt meter)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Lake Wylie NC Area
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    Default

    2nd amp is connected to a distribution block (one of those Tsunami's with a volt meter)
    This implies that the 1st amp might be drawing from a different source. This can invite noise.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    149

    Default

    above statement about 2nd amp was in response to what you wrote: "DO NOT jump the 2nd amp's power cables from the first amp."


    1st amp is connected to same dist block as 2nd.
    Last edited by mazzyel2162; 06-03-2016 at 02:14 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Lake Wylie NC Area
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    2,467

    Default

    good deal, cause ive seen boat builder and aftermarket installers alike, jump from one amp to another with the power cables.

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