New Jabsco Ballast King

[dusty2221]

MLA does have a good point.

Yeah, he sure does!

[yooper]

Would this work?

[jstenger]

Yes it would.

[EricU]

That is a pretty cool relay layout. At first I didn't think that it would work until I followed each relay's input path.

I am assuming that the main switch that controls it, marked "Switch" in the diagram is a three position switch with a middle non-contact "off" position in the middle?

Up or to the left (pole #1) would control the 85/86 trigger input of the bottom relay
Down or to the right (pole #3) would control the 85/86 trigger input of the top relay
Middle would be off for both

[yooper]

That is a pretty cool relay layout. At first I didn't think that it would work until I followed each relay's input path.

I am assuming that the main switch that controls it, marked "Switch" in the diagram is a three position switch with a middle non-contact "off" position in the middle?

Up or to the left (pole #1) would control the 85/86 trigger input of the bottom relay
Down or to the right (pole #3) would control the 85/86 trigger input of the top relay
Middle would be off for both

Exactly right. Here is exactly how I'm thinking about wiring it in using the existing plugs that come on the Mojo. I'm planning on putting both relays inside a plastic project box to help with ignition protection. The relays are supposedly "marine," but a little added safety can't hurt.



I'm using these wire harnesses if you want to follow the wire colors I listed on the drawing.

[gregski]

I'm planning on putting both relays inside a plastic project box to help with ignition protection. The relays are supposedly "marine," but a little added safety can't hurt.

...well it could actually be worse than not. A plastic project box would only slow down the air exchange rate meaning that it would eventually fill with an air/fuel vapor mix (if your bilge has this environment), but it would not be immediately cleared out when you run your blower.

For "added protection" you would need to use a hermetically sealed box. If your relays are sealed/"marine" than it really doesn't matter. My point is simply that you can't use a plastic project box and think that you've accomplished any level of ignition protection (i.e. to justify using non-ignition protected relays)

[EricU]

...I'm using these wire harnesses if you want to follow the wire colors I listed on the drawing.

Very nice.

I have used some of the different pre-made wire harnesses like those on a few different projects. For a 20A/12VDC load, make sure that you check the wire sizes on the 30/87 remote power circuit as those harnesses tend to use smaller wire gauges. I know that they are not that long, but I found it more comforting to make my own on the higher draw items such as big pumps or air compressors. It is a pretty standard female blade, (1/4" I think)

I'd like to know how that new pump works out, it would make a great rear transfer pump for switching from goofy to regular (wierdos) footed riders.

[yooper]

The 30/87 wires are 14 AWG. Is that right, or should I go larger gauge?

[EricU]

The 30/87 wires are 14 AWG. Is that right, or should I go larger gauge?

That is a nice boat, expensive pump and you want a bullet proof install to prevent any issues on the lake.

I would get some quality marine grade 12 ga from Anchor Marine or equivalent, spend a little time crimping, soldering and heat shrinking your connections.

[MLA]

Thats a very common connector and female terminal. You could pop out the 14ga 30 and 87 and put in your own with 12ga wire on new terminals. Retain that connector.