Factory IBS Install/plumb process - 2013 Mojo?

[c h r i s]

Does anyone know how the factory is plumbing IBS in conjunction with the Mojo hard tank? I believe I've searched and read all the IBS treads and I'm confused on what is the correct method. As I understand it I definitely do not want to include a check valve with the IBS but I'm unsure where to go from there and the instructions from Wakemakers I received with my kit are pretty limited (and I fear potentially inaccurate).

[jstenger]

Check out the following thread starting with post 191.

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?t=26912

Wakemakers only uses one fill/drain line in their IBS kit. The factory uses two fill/drain lines. The thread is as close as can be to a factory install. Defineately DO NOT use check valves.

[c h r i s]

Yep, read that one several times. Hung up on post #182.

Has everything worked out for you since the reinstall?

[07STI]

First, I have to preface this post with the following warning: I am NOT an expert and have very little experience with boat modifications.

With that said, I was able to add the IBS via piggybacking off the center tank in my '16 CRAZ. It was straightforward and relatively painless.

First question - Are you attempting to run your IBS the same as factory, as opposed to piggybacking? If so, I can't help you since I don't know how the IBS is integrated from the factory.

If you are okay with piggybacking, and the '13 MOJO works that way, I will do my best to explain it.

[c h r i s]

I'd rather not piggy back, ideally I'd do it how the factory does it. After reading some of the cracked center ballast stories I'm a little paranoid.

[jstenger]

I'd rather not piggy back, ideally I'd do it how the factory does it. After reading some of the cracked center ballast stories I'm a little paranoid.

The factory setup IS piggy backed. It uses two lines, whereas Wakemaker's uses one line. The theory behind the second line is that it gives the hard tank a second way of venting when draining.

[icemanftr]

I'd rather not piggy back, ideally I'd do it how the factory does it. After reading some of the cracked center ballast stories I'm a little paranoid.

2 years and running on my IBS kit from Wakemakers. Piggybacked right off factory hard tank and added about 5 mins to fill up and drain. No cracked tank on my boat, if I remember correctly, his may have been a factory issue involving his unfortunate circumstances.

[c h r i s]

The factory setup IS piggy backed. It uses two lines, whereas Wakemaker's uses one line. The theory behind the second line is that it gives the hard tank a second way of venting when draining.

Ok, I had to draw it out, but I think I understand what you did jstenger. Couple of additional questions:

1) Do you think I can drill the extra starboard venting hole w/o removing anything under the floor?

2) How much additional plumbing would you estimate to run from the back of the hard tank to each leg of the IBS?

[jstenger]

1) Do you think I can drill the extra starboard venting hole w/o removing anything under the floor?

I think you mean port side, since there is already a hole on the starboard side that the current hard tank vent goes thru. And the answer is yes. Just remove the black air vent that goes into the floor behind the observer's seat. Look back at the other thread I linked, and you will see what I am talking about. Once that is removed, you should be able to see the top of the hard tank. To the left of the hard tank is a wall. You want to drill your hole in the floor to the left of that wall. Once drilled, you will have access to the port side channel that goes back to where your battery cables feed thru. I used 10' of 1" ballast hose on my second vent to go from the back of the hard tank to the back left leg of the IBS. The existing hard tank vent is long enough to reach the back right leg of the IBS. You will need additional 1" hose to go from the top front of the IBS to the original thru hull vent.

[c h r i s]

Yep, meant port side. Thanks for clarifying and explaining.