Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20

Thread: Ws rev 10 amp?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    19

    Default Ws rev 10 amp?

    I got two rev 10s over the winter and am wondering what amp I need to push them? I will say I don't not want to spend $1000 on a amp I've seen some guys using ppi amps and having good luck.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Tifton,GA Lake Blackshear, and Lake Cheehaw
    Posts
    213

    Default

    I would recommend 300 watts atleast on a 4 ohm stereo load, for just 1 pair of speakers you can use a 2 channel amp and save some dough. I would buy a good used on ebay or craigslist. Not being critical but a cheap amp will play the speakers but you got 1200.00 speakers and their are differences in amps.
    2015 Supra SG 450 Fire Red Metallic
    Wetsounds and MMATS
    2015 Mojo
    2014 LSV
    2006 Tahoe Q4sf

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    3,952

    Default

    I'm curious about the mono vs stereo. I was thinking the same as you but I've seen the jl750.1 as a recommended amp, which is mono.



    Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
    2016 Moomba Mojo
    2006 Supra 24SSV - Traded

  4. #4

    Default

    I think they recommend mono so when wakeboarding and youre off axis ( to the side ) you can still hear the full range of music.

  5. #5

    Default

    Exactly. When off-axis and outside the wake or just at rest, you will hear all material from both channels versus just the content of one channel. Also, the sweet spot in order to enjoy any kind of stereo image from the tower speakers is a very limited area in both width and depth. So the benefits of stereo aren't there like you would have in-the-boat when you are seated in between the coaming speakers. With a horizontal tower array of four side-by-side speakers, there is no stereo effect anywhere. Also, keep in mind that a mono signal can be very different than a bridged signal, and only select amplifiers can correctly sum the signal at the input. Either way, neither scheme is an absolute. Either works.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cjackson1123 View Post
    I got two rev 10s over the winter and am wondering what amp I need to push them? I will say I don't not want to spend $1000 on a amp I've seen some guys using ppi amps and having good luck.
    The PPI amplifier, like the P900.4 bridged into two speakers is okay as a budget option. But this is a very bare bones, simplistic amplifier. Most people make their value assessment on a price per power ratio. There are lots of holes in that assessment and there is so much more to consider. Those who upgraded later on would notice a performance difference even with amplifiers rated at the same power.
    The new Wetsounds SYN DX 4-channel or the JL Audio HD750/1 monoblock are two very good options that come in at a lower cost and have the power to drive the Rev10s to potential.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    3,952

    Default

    Is the ht4 referenced in other threads, currently on sale, a workable amplifier in this scenario since is it 300x2 @ 4ohms in mono?

    Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
    2016 Moomba Mojo
    2006 Supra 24SSV - Traded

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Tifton,GA Lake Blackshear, and Lake Cheehaw
    Posts
    213

    Default

    The normal non audiophile ear you won't hear the difference in motion at the volume levels we listen to on the water. You will still have stereo sound assuming your in boats are wired to be played at stereo but your towers will basically drown them out. (SAME principle for subwoofers) The purpose in a mono signal going to them is it gets the ohm load down to allow you to pull more power out of your amp. This will be more bang for your buck. MLA or Davidanalog can giving different reasons but this is the most common. To wire the towers stereo, will require a bigger amp and most won't spring for that so to get the volume they desired out of a smaller amp they will try to turn the gain up on the amp creating heat from distorsion and possibly damaing the speakers; where as with on a lower ohm load and more power you will have lower gain levels and the possibility of less distortion saving the speakers.
    Last edited by nitrodude24; 04-19-2016 at 03:35 PM.
    2015 Supra SG 450 Fire Red Metallic
    Wetsounds and MMATS
    2015 Mojo
    2014 LSV
    2006 Tahoe Q4sf

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    1,395

    Default

    Has the wide range 750/1 proven to work as well as the full range? I was going to pull it and put my 600/4 in my old boat and didn't get it done. Wondering if I need to look for an older 750/1 or if the new one will work.
    -Jake

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by beat taco View Post
    Has the wide range 750/1 proven to work as well as the full range? I was going to pull it and put my 600/4 in my old boat and didn't get it done. Wondering if I need to look for an older 750/1 or if the new one will work.
    Very good question. Most people don't realize that all Class D amplifiers are analog switching and all have 1st order inductors on the final output to filter out any switching artifacts. In the case of the JL Audio HD600/4 the switching speed is more than 20 times the top end of the audible bandwidth so the filtering takes place at a much higher frequency, hence provides more top end response. So if I had a luxury car with a marshmallow ride with $1000 of sound damping treatment and $1000 a pair separate component speakers driven by lossless files through an outboard DAC, I'm running the HD600/4. No question. The reality is that the HD750/1 has less top end response than the HD600/1 but is within the limits of many so-called 'fullrange' Class D amplifiers that use a slower switching speed. So as tested it's down a couple of dB at 18kHz into a 4-ohm load and a couple of dB more at a 2-ohm load (a factor with the inductors of all Class D amplifiers). You don't realize this because other manufacturers don't give you a frequency response with a +/- dB qualifier. They may be rated to 20kHz but down how many dB? And their power is only rated at 1kHz @ 1% distortion. JL Audio just happens to be very conservative and very thorough in all ratings.
    HLCDs don't extend flat to 20 kHz and you won't hear 20 kHz unless you're a 12 year old girl. So there is no chance that you could tell the difference on the tower. The HD750/1 has been a real success on the tower because it is a superior sounding amplifier in this application. And btw, a slight change in the HD750/1 switching speed took place long before JL Audio altered the spec, so an older model would not make a difference in any case.
    Last edited by David Analog; 04-19-2016 at 04:47 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •