Wet Sounds 420 Install

[trayson]

Here's a picture of my switch as wired from the dealer. It seems that they mixed up the #2 and 1+2 wiring? This makes a little sense as I've been wondering why after tuning the radio with the switch in position 2 and the battery dies why after I switched to position 1, position 1 was dead as well. That's because when I've been switching to position 2 to start with, I've been running off of both batteries.


Attachment 23338

I'd have to see the back to be sure. (the posts should be labled on the back.) But yes, I would most certainly pull it out and look at the back.

If your suspicion is correct, your switch would likely operate as follows:
Position 1 - the boat electronics wouldn't run. all it's doing is joining the two batteries.
Position 2 - the boat is running off battery #2
Position 1+2 = the boat is running off boat batteries
Position 0 = the boat is either running off battery #1 or it's not powered.... that really depends on the internal workings of the switch which I don't know.

When you look at the back side, it'll be obvious. There's a terminal for battery "1" and a terminal for battery "2" and a "common" to hook up your load to (the wires going to the distro block and to the starter through the floor).




Bottom line, is that to make sure it's right and have peace of mind, get out your cordless drill with the screwdriver bit, and whip off that switch and look at the back of it and the labels on the back. Then grab a pair of pliers or a socket or a crescent wrench and do the swap-a-roo if necessary.

[ghebert1111]

If you look at the back side of the switch it should be pretty obvious.



Like this. The common is the "load" that powers everything else in your boat... (i.e. I don't have anything wired directly to my batteries, although some people wire the bilge pump bypassing the switch so it's never cut off from power) in this diagram it says "starter" but it's really anything you want powered. starter, stereo, all the boat electronics.

OK I get what you are saying. I pulled the switch off and the connections are correct according to the labels on the back of the switch. Odd that the common on the back is behind the position 2 on the switch and 1 is behind the position 1+2 on the switch.

[ghebert1111]

I'd have to see the back to be sure. (the posts should be labled on the back.) But yes, I would most certainly pull it out and look at the back.

If your suspicion is correct, your switch would likely operate as follows:
Position 1 - the boat electronics wouldn't run. all it's doing is joining the two batteries.
Position 2 - the boat is running off battery #2
Position 1+2 = the boat is running off boat batteries
Position 0 = the boat is either running off battery #1 or it's not powered.... that really depends on the internal workings of the switch which I don't know.

When you look at the back side, it'll be obvious. There's a terminal for battery "1" and a terminal for battery "2" and a "common" to hook up your load to (the wires going to the distro block and to the starter through the floor).




Bottom line, is that to make sure it's right and have peace of mind, get out your cordless drill with the screwdriver bit, and whip off that switch and look at the back of it and the labels on the back. Then grab a pair of pliers or a socket or a crescent wrench and do the swap-a-roo if necessary.

I was wondering how to test that. I'll go down and test position 1 and see if I get power. If the switch is setup correctly and I was only running off of battery 2 when testing the radio, not sure why after battery 2 dies, battery 1 is dead as well.

[MLA]

There really isnt any wiring for the "1/2 or BOTH" position as that connection is handled mechanically internal of the switch. The only real way to goof the switch wiring, is to put the the common cables on either the 1 or the 2 post and then one battery ends on the C and the other is on the remaining bank post. Sounds like you verified the batteries are on the 1 and 2 posts and all others are on the C post by looking at the back of the switch?

If so, you really need to get in there with a volt meter and start with making sure the batteries are charged. Then go to what doesnt work, and check for battery voltage on the proper wire and work back to the source, as in the switch, until you find where the voltage stops. This could be a breaker or fuse or bad switch.

[ghebert1111]

There really isnt any wiring for the "1/2 or BOTH" position as that connection is handled mechanically internal of the switch. The only real way to goof the switch wiring, is to put the the common cables on either the 1 or the 2 post and then one battery ends on the C and the other is on the remaining bank post. Sounds like you verified the batteries are on the 1 and 2 posts and all others are on the C post by looking at the back of the switch?

If so, you really need to get in there with a volt meter and start with making sure the batteries are charged. Then go to what doesnt work, and check for battery voltage on the proper wire and work back to the source, as in the switch, until you find where the voltage stops. This could be a breaker or fuse or bad switch.

.

Yes I verified that the switch is wired correctly.

I charged up the batteries and was getting 12.7 and 13. I've disconnected everything from them and will check them on Monday and maybe run them to an auto parts store as well.

Thanks for the assistance.

[ghebert1111]

I'v confirmed my batteries are in very good shape, according to the local interstate store. I will reinstall them and see if I can replicate the issue I was having.