Cutting 4" holes in fiberglass seat bases.

[trayson]

So I've found that cutting 4" holes with a hole saw is a serious PITA. My 18v cordless drills get toasted in short order. I even bought a corded drill and found that I can smoke the motor on that one before I make much progress on the hole. I've got a couple more hot tubes I can add to my heater system but drilling the holes is literally a process that takes multiple sessions of drilling over a day or days. It doesn't seem like it should be this hard.



What am I missing or doing wrong?

[sivs1]

So I've found that cutting 4" holes with a hole saw is a serious PITA. My 18v cordless drills get toasted in short order. I even bought a corded drill and found that I can smoke the motor on that one before I make much progress on the hole. I've got a couple more hot tubes I can add to my heater system but drilling the holes is literally a process that takes multiple sessions of drilling over a day or days. It doesn't seem like it should be this hard.



What am I missing or doing wrong?

First, your inbox is full, second, what are you trying to do with the seat bases? Are you meaning the walls between the bottom of the seat to the floor? I had no issues drilling holes through my LSV, just never went 4".

[trayson]

First, your inbox is full, second, what are you trying to do with the seat bases? Are you meaning the walls between the bottom of the seat to the floor? I had no issues drilling holes through my LSV, just never went 4".

Cleared inbox space.

Yes, the walls between the bottom of the seats and the floor. Drilling 4" holes in them to add more Heatercraft Hot tubes. I have a 4 port heater that's located under the seat cushion that's behind the driver's seat (the one that folds up as a backrest). and I'm only using 2 of the hot tubes now and have a couple more to install! so need to drill 2 more 4" holes

[MLA]

I use 1/2" corded drill, so pretty stout. I also use commercial grade hole saws and arbor like De Walt or Lenox. Those cheap multi blade kits will dull by the end of the 1st hole, making more work on the drill and you.

[sandm]

^this on the hole saws.
I did 2 6" holes for added speakers in the tige seatbases. I went a bought a 6" hole saw at home depot. was somewhat expensive(iirc around $25), but my dewalt 18v cordless drill did both holes in short order and both were very clean with no de-burring necessary.

sometimes right job=right tool....

[mmandley]

Never had an issue, I used a hole saw like that and my cordless drilled 13 2inch holes threw 2/4s no issues.

I have not drilled 4inch hole in the boat, but I have drilled several holes one after the other.

Personally I use reverse for only getting through the gell, once I am through that I switch it to forward and it eats like slicing butter.

I am pretty sure I have that same kit you have from the HF.

[kaneboats]

drilling the holes is literally a process that takes multiple sessions of drilling over a day or days

If drilling anything takes a long time your bit or hole saw is either the incorrect one (e.g., wood bit on metal) or it's toast. A new hole saw will pay for itself in saved time and likely save your drill(s) too.

[trayson]

If drilling anything takes a long time your bit or hole saw is either the incorrect one (e.g., wood bit on metal) or it's toast. A new hole saw will pay for itself in saved time and likely save your drill(s) too.

So, since most bits are billed as either metal or wood, then where does fiberglass fit in?

[MLA]

You just need a general use bit, just a quality commercial grade bit and arbor. Those cheap bits are not sharp to start with and dull quick. The arbor wears out along with the double-D slot in the hole bit.

[trayson]

You just need a general use bit, just a quality commercial grade bit and arbor. Those cheap bits are not sharp to start with and dull quick. The arbor wears out along with the double-D slot in the hole bit.

Would this be good enough?

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D180064.../dp/B00005LEZR