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08-18-2015, 04:30 PM #1Member
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Best engine bay heater to buy with the cold aproaching
First year with my 13 lsv v drive and we will start getting into the. Negative temps here in the next few weeks and my boat does not sit in a heated area often on the boat lift or driveway, what do you guys use to ensure that the block doesnt crack or heater core and ballast bumps and such. Have lots of great days left on water and want to get the most out of the boat before i winterize it thanks again
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08-18-2015, 04:34 PM #2
once I know we'll be below freezing over night for more than just an hour I drain everything after each use. it takes 20 minutes to go through everything, but we'll continue into October by doing this.
2017 Centurion Ri237
2013 Supra SA450 - Sold
2006 Mobius LSV - Sold
2004 Stingray 190LS - Sold
2016 Nissan Titan XD - Tow Rig
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08-18-2015, 04:36 PM #3
where are you that it will freeze the first part of SEPT.
A Day at the Lake...Priceless
A Day in Powder...Endless
Joe V
2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
2007 Outback V ~ sold
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08-18-2015, 05:12 PM #4Member
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08-18-2015, 05:13 PM #5Member
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08-18-2015, 05:14 PM #6
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08-18-2015, 05:35 PM #7
Last edited by trayson; 08-18-2015 at 05:37 PM.
2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
www.TraysonsToybox.com
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08-18-2015, 05:42 PM #8
I've read lots of threads that show that the temps of the block rarely get freezing w/o prolonged sustained temps below freezing. The thing I'd be worried about would be the heat exchanger on the boat heater (assuming you have one).
I know a couple of us have installed hose quick connects to make disconnecting and draining the heat exchanger a lot easier. Having an air compressor really helps with blowing air out of the heater. That's the one item that's farther away from the block that I'd actually worry about.2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
www.TraysonsToybox.com
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08-18-2015, 05:57 PM #9Member
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08-18-2015, 06:03 PM #10
There's two hoses that go to/from the heater unit. the unit consists of a blower fan and a heat exchanger (like a little radiator thing) and it's all in a box with hoses going to and from. So yeah, the hoses that go to and from the engine to that remote unit are what I'd be most concerned about. Beyond that, the shop light should work well. Maybe two for redundancy so that if one light bulb burns out, you've still got the backup.
2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
www.TraysonsToybox.com