Toogle switch tripping after 10 seconds after hooking up new Halogen lights

[caliboyatheart]

When I bought my 2006 Moomba Mobius XLV previous owner had purchased (5) 50 watt halogen lights for tower. They were not hooked up so after I hooked them up they fuse blows after about 10 seconds after turning lights on. So I am guessing it is not because its not grounded correctly or it would trip immediately. I am guessing the fuse or toogle switch is not rated correctly for amperage. Not sure if I need a new toogle switch or need to just change out fuse below toogle to a higher amp? There are 5 halogen lights. Any help is appreciated. 20141122_165829.jpg20150608_120943.jpg

[MLA]

the fuse blows and the breaker trips because the current draw of the 5 lights is exceeding the capacity of the circuit. Changing to a higher fuse or breaker will just cause a fire. I would also question the cable size used to wire those 5 lights.

[newty]

Read up on how to use relay for lights.
Should fix your problem and a low you to use your existing switch.
Like MLA says, make sure the wire size is adequate for the amp draw.

[David Analog]

Very important. Relays are rated for intermittent duty. A DC lamp is continuous. So make sure that your relay(s) rating is about three times the value of the collective lamp current draw.
A switch is typically rated for no more than 15 amps continuous. Typical halogens draw 5 amps each.
You would be shocked at how hot an undersized wiring harness can get inside the tower. I would recommend having two independent circuits, one front, one rear, and no less than 14-gauge conductors for both.
Poor crimp connections are another source of intense heat.
Then, do not overlook the gauge of harness that supplies the fuse and switching. The helm bus is often inadequate. Best to have a direct line to the battery.

[caliboyatheart]

Very important. Relays are rated for intermittent duty. A DC lamp is continuous. So make sure that your relay(s) rating is about three times the value of the collective lamp current draw.
A switch is typically rated for no more than 15 amps continuous. Typical halogens draw 5 amps each.
You would be shocked at how hot an undersized wiring harness can get inside the tower. I would recommend having two independent circuits, one front, one rear, and no less than 14-gauge conductors for both.
Poor crimp connections are another source of intense heat.
Then, do not overlook the gauge of harness that supplies the fuse and switching. The helm bus is often inadequate. Best to have a direct line to the battery.

Thanks everyone for the info. Sounds like you are all saying about the same thing. I will increase wire gauge and then split the front and back lights. Appreciate everyone's time!