RMK818-Single ghetto Gate

[rmk818]

Attachment 22075
Instructions:The issues I had were, the ski platform brackets were off centered (one closer to one side than the other). This made it a little challenging (lots of measuring).
Materials used:
All stainless steel fasteners (approx 30 dollars) had extras
---two 5/8 two inch carriage bolts (ss) These will need to be cut down to 1.5 inches.
---two 5/8 flat washers (ss)
---two 5/8inch locking castle nuts (ss)
---three # 12 by 5/16 inch screws (ss)
---eight #6 by 1/2 inch screws (ss)
---eight # 10 by 5/16 inch screws (ss)
---eight #10 lock washers (ss)
---one #6 by 1.5 inch bolt with locking castle nut (ss)
---four 5/16 by 3/8 inch thread inserts
---three 5/16 knobs
---one clip pin
Two caster wheels (5 dollars)
Two truss brackets (2 dollars)
One walking cane (Walmart - 12 dollars)
3/4 inch HDPE (bought more than I needed - 24x48 sheet cost 91 dollars shipped) only used half.
a Stanley Gate Hinge (largest one I could find at hardware store) 8 dollars
Transom board: Cut 9 x 20 inches (rounded boat side edges with roundover router bit) a notch cut out is used to wrap around the ski platform bracket. The entire back plate (transom board) is centered off of notch cut out). My cut out was 3 x 5 and 7/8 inches. I drew a line all the way across so I could line up everything to include the gate. Hinge is mounted with 5/8 inch x 2 inch carriage bolt (carriage bolt is recessed into boat side of plate slightly under flush to prevent scratching) and on centerline with hinge pin extending past the outer edge of transom board ( I aligned the inside of the hinge pin with the outside edge of the transom board).
1) Mark center hinge hole and prepare to drill for carriage bolt
Caution.. Use a small diameter bit (pilot hole) and go all the way through. This will make sense in a minute
2) Flip the transom board over and use a spade bit larger than the head of the carriage bolt (7/8) and drill a recessed hole just a little deeper than the head of the carriage bolt. Once complete, then drill the 5/8 inch hole all the way through and place the carriage bolt in place ( I had to hammer it in). This bolt head must be just below the surface of the boat side to prevent scratching your boat.
3) Once hinge is placed and bolted (center only) and alligned with the centerline, mark and drill out the rear center hole about half way through (I used a slightly smaller than 5/16 bit and then tapped/threaded the hole for a 5/6 inch screw knob, If the hole is slightly smaller that is ok (if you don't have a tap this is the preferred method, the threads of the knob will cut the threads and keep it tight.
4) Rotate hinge + 23 degrees upward and mark hinge holes, rotate hinge - 23 degrees from centerline and mark hinge holes
-Note- Do not drill holes out yet (you must make sure that the gate is aligned with the side angle of the boat (for both sides)
5) Insert transom board between boat transom and ski platform.
6) Attach truss plate by placing it between the transom board and platform, resting on top of the outer inside corner of the ski platform (this bracket prevents the transom board from slipping downward on the side of the gate). Make sure the transom board has not slipped down and that it is level (may not be exact) Mark the top of the truss on the transom board and remove transom board from boat. Place the truss plate back on aligned with the mark you previously made and attach using the # 6 screws. Flip the board upside down and repeat for the other side.
7) Attach gate to transom board hinge (align the centerlines off of the transom board and the gate). Attach the gate making sure that the outer transom board hinge pin is on the outer edge of the gate (you should have a gap that is the width of the hinge pin.
Once gate is installed on transom board, dry fit to check alignment and angle of gate in relation to the sides of your boat. Only when you are satisfied with the angles of the attached gate, drill your holes or remark holes and drill (forward hinge holes only). Caution.. Use a small diameter bit (pilot hole) and go all the way through.
8) Turn the transom board over and countersink (use a 7/8 spade bit to recess threads on boat side of transom board). Countersink about 1/8 inch deep). Once complete, drill 5/16 inch hole to insert threads from boat side. Heat up threads (this will melt the HDPE around the threads) and press in so the threads are slightly deeper than than the back of the board. Drill the rear holes out the same way you drilled the rear centerline hole (slightly smaller than a 5/16 hole and tap/thread).
9) Attach caster wheel (with wheel removed) frame to the transom board (2 inches centered and on centerline) using #10 screws

Gate: Cut 12 and 1/4 by 20 inches with center cut at 19 inches with a 25 degree inside miter cut
I cut a shallow V out to extend the edge in the water and allows for flipping the gate over to the other side and still keep 20 inches in the water
Remove wheel from the caster wheel and mount the caster wheel frame to the centerline of the gate (approx 2.5 inches from edge). This is used for your support brace
Hinge is hard fastened to the gate (will not rotate) with carriage bolt and # 12 screws on centerline. The hinge pin on leading edge
Brace: Cut cane handle off (length of cane should now be 16 and 1/4 inches long. Note: Make sure cane is fully extended before cutting handle off. Drill hole in both ends of can (perpendicular to the cane's push button) and approx 1/2 inch from ends. Attach fat (handle side) of cane to the Gate with #6 by 1.5 inch bolt with locking castle nut (ss). Attach smaller end to the transom board side with a clip pin
Note: I added a rope handle to the transom board to ease removing and handling (Two tapered holes (5/16 in upper outer corners) with a rope and knot. Place the rope through a washer tie a knot and tread through from the boat side and back through the other side with a washer and a knot. Make sure the washer is slips into the hole but does not pull through.
Operation: Adjust the hinge by removing knobs from center line position, and tighten down on angled side (threads you inserted). Insert gate to the side you want by sliding it between the platform and boat transom (watch to make sure your truss plates do not dig into your platform).
Make adjustments out of the water for the side you want. If more outward angle is needed on the gate, adjust by using the press button on the cane to extend the length of the brace (cane). This can be done in the water
To stow: Pull the pin on the transom board, close the brace (cane) and fold together

[kaneboats]

This is hardly acceptable. Make one for the 2006-2011 LSV and I'll be impressed.

Nice work. Thanks for sharing!

[spyder]

with these shapers, how much ballast do you run and is it positioned differently then without them?

[mjr119]

Post a pic of it installed, please.

[mikenehrkorn]

Looks great -- I have only made my prototype but was getting ready to make my more permanent version. I was really hoping to get a design to build one gate for both sides since I have both goofy and regular riders so I'm lovin this.

Do you have any pics of it installed on the boat? So it looks like the gate doesn't not fit flush to the transom -- does that create any problems or water spray?

[moombadaze]

yes, need a picture of it mounted on the boat. pronto.

[mikenehrkorn]

RMK -- don't leave us hanging....inquiry minds need to know!!

[mikenehrkorn]

I finally got some time on the water to test my gate. I pretty much used the same design as RMK but I didn't go to all the lengths to make the gate reversible for both sides -- I just made a gate for each side separately.

All I can say is WOW!!!! I certainly thought it would help the wave but I had no idea how much. Due to my size (6'2" / 230lbs) and relative inexperience I had never been able to ride ropeless for more than a few hundred feet before I always fell out the back of the wave. And I always felt I was nearly riding on the platform I was so close to the boat. Well with the gate I can now freeride without much problem and although I can't tell that there is a huge difference in the size of the wave there is definitely much more push. For the first time I felt like I was really surfing and not just being dragged around the lake!!

Here's a few of my observations:

One of my concerns was about how tight the gate needed to be to the transom and how much spray there would be. I did not cut the end of the gate that's up against the transom (just left the factory edge) and its even about an inch away (slight error on my part mounting the hinge) and there is really no spray at all. As I have read from others there is some water spilling over the top of the gate but not much other spray at all.

I just used a 1/2" cutting board from Sam's (http://www.samsclub.com/sams/bakers-...questid=309121) and was somewhat worried that I would really need at least 3/4" material....though the 1/2" flexes a bit it seems to be holding up fine so far. And for $9 each you really can't beat the price.

I was also a little worried it might fall off into the lake but if you cut it snuggly to the the platform bracket and just add a single bungie to hold it in place there looks to be no problem with it falling off.

I forgot to get some pics of it on the boat but I will get those over the 4th. And if I can figure out a way to get some video without losing my phone in the lake (no GoPro here) I will post that too.

So those of you that are on the fence about doing this mod -- especially those with the OBV that is already a bit challenged in the surfing department -- I would definitely recommend it. And for the pretty cheap price how can you not???

[jmvotto]

Mine is so simple yet so effective, 40 bucks . I even tried different angles but the best wave came with it straight back Small enough to store in front area of lockers or under seats. I copied boonejeepin etc I kept my oem non surf platform. Will make one for goofy side too.

[smokeysevin]

Can you shoot some pictures of it installed?

I want to see how you attached it to the hull.

Thanks,

Sean