Results 11 to 20 of 26
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03-26-2015, 09:23 PM #11
I would not suggest a fuse for the main helm BUS, but rather a manual reset breaker. Blown fuse, you are dead in the water. Breakers can be be reset, allowing you to limp home.
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04-14-2015, 09:14 PM #12
Thanks for all the help guys. Brought the boat home from storage today. Getting ready to start on this.
Dumb question: How do I pull up the floor to access the channel on the top of the gas tank? I pulled the back seat, and the v-drive cover, then pulled hard on the floor, and it is just solid. Not moving at all. Is there some trick I'm missing?
Also, what's the best way to run the fill/drain line for the IBS? I'm coming off the pump into a Y with one side going to the belly bag, the other going to the IBS. Do I need to drill a new hole? Or am I better off running it in the chase on the driver side?2008 Mobius LSV
Wakemakers Gravity III ballast Upgrade
Wakeboard prop
2 Wetsounds Pro 80's, 2 Wetsounds MB8's
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04-14-2015, 09:47 PM #13
Screws in the floor , they are tough to find in the carpet, then the floor comes up.
I ran my ibs up through the chase in the hump to the top of the to fill.A Day at the Lake...Priceless
A Day in Powder...Endless
Joe V
2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
2007 Outback V ~ sold
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04-15-2015, 11:25 AM #14Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Posts
- 2,522
There's 4 per panel, 1 (2-4 inches from the corner)in each corner, the one by the drivers seat is in the middle along the side...
http://www.instgram.com/jlyons30
2002 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
2006 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
2017 Moomba Craz - Enzos, Lead
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05-25-2015, 10:03 PM #15David
2017 Moomba Mojo Max Surf Edition, 2 Pair Wetsounds Rev10s powered by an SD2, 6 pair Wetsounds XS650M and Wetsounds XS12 powered by SD6 all controlled by a WS420. 2 Lumitec SeaBlaze X2 Spectrum underwater lights
SOLD***2008 Mobius LSV, Gravity III , Wake Plate, Z5, Exile SX65c's, Exile XM9s, Exile XI12D, Exile Javelin, Exile 30.2***SOLD
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05-26-2015, 09:59 PM #16
Yes, I did finish it. I don't have any pictures, but can take some if necessary. I ran 6 gage wire from the battery, through a 100 AMP breaker, to an auxiliary 100 AMP panel mounted under the helm. I am using three 25 AMP breakers in the auxiliary panel. My fill time went from 30-40 minutes to right around 9 minutes. I'm VERY happy with the result.
Lessons learned
1) Thru hull placement. Make sure you leave enough room to spin the ball valves on. I had it all lined up, was able to move the handles just fine. Drilled the holes, went to spin the second ball valve on, and didn't have enough clearance. I got very lucky that I found one at a plumbing supply warehouse that gave me JUST enough clearance to spin it on. So, check, and double check that you have enough room.
2) When tightening the thru hull nut on the mushroom, it takes two people. One under the boat holding the end of a breaker bar or something in the mushroom, the other doing the tightening of the nut inside the boat.
3) Definitely get the check valves from Wakemakers for your vent lines. The bags do suck down like raisins.
4) I added an IBS at the same time. I am filling the belly bag and the IBS off of the same pump. I did a single line from the pump, under the floor, and then Y it right near the drivers seat. Two issues with this. First, the belly bag is smaller, so it fills faster, and the floor is popping b/c the bag is so full. Second, b/c the run from the Y to the belly bag is shorter, it is filling MUCH faster than the IBS. So, the belly bag is full long before the IBS. It isn't a huge problem, I'm just worried about the pressure that is getting put on the belly bag.
5) I am going to be re-doing the lines to my rear bags. I set them up so that the ports/lines are towards the front of the boat. The issue I am having is that when they are draining, they start sucking air long before the bags are empty. This is b/c the boat is back heavy and the water is just settling at the back of the bag. So, flipping the bags around should resolve this issue.
6) The one inch lines and the barbed connections are VERY tight. You absolutely need a heat gun, or at least a hair dryer. I also used some hand sanitizer as lube, which worked really well. (The hand sanitizer idea came from Oakley. I watched a video on how to change my ear socks, and they recommended to use it as it will simply evaporate.)
7) I discovered I have a weak battery. I run a two battery setup, and about the third time I had it out after the upgrades, I had all sorts of issues. I had horrible feedback coming out of the stereo. The pumps wouldn't run, or would just barely turn on. I changed the breakers out for fuses. I switched the battery switch to be dedicated to the battery the pumps were on. I even took everything off of that battery except for the pumps. Still the same issues. I switched the pumps to the other battery, and all the issues went away. Put the bad battery on the charger and it was dead. Charged it up completely, put it back in, and the issues were gone. So, the battery just isn't holding a charge, and that low power causes all sorts of problems.2008 Mobius LSV
Wakemakers Gravity III ballast Upgrade
Wakeboard prop
2 Wetsounds Pro 80's, 2 Wetsounds MB8's
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05-30-2015, 03:42 PM #17
Wiring Wakemakers Gravity III Upgrade to Factory Switches
Any pictures of your thru hull locations from the inside?
Sent from my iPhoneDavid
2017 Moomba Mojo Max Surf Edition, 2 Pair Wetsounds Rev10s powered by an SD2, 6 pair Wetsounds XS650M and Wetsounds XS12 powered by SD6 all controlled by a WS420. 2 Lumitec SeaBlaze X2 Spectrum underwater lights
SOLD***2008 Mobius LSV, Gravity III , Wake Plate, Z5, Exile SX65c's, Exile XM9s, Exile XI12D, Exile Javelin, Exile 30.2***SOLD
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05-30-2015, 04:16 PM #18
Wiring Wakemakers Gravity III Upgrade to Factory Switches
Don't have any on my phone, but will take some next time I'm at the boat.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk2008 Mobius LSV
Wakemakers Gravity III ballast Upgrade
Wakeboard prop
2 Wetsounds Pro 80's, 2 Wetsounds MB8's
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08-11-2016, 12:36 PM #19Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Posts
- 84
Reviving an old thread here… I’ve done the 3-ballast pump upgrade (kept the G3 in place and use it for the orig 3 bags but moved the rear bags under the seats). For wiring, I followed Parrothd’s method. I’ve got 2 batteries w/ a VSR: House Batt > 2ga wire > 100amp breaker > 2ga wire > panel w/ 25 amp fuses > 12ga wire > switches > 12ga wire > pumps.
At idle, the dash gauge says I’m getting ~14v but as I start turning on switches/pumps, the voltage drops to sub-13v. At higher rpms, the voltage returns to ~14v w/ all 3 pumps running. My question is whether this is normal. A search of the forums indicates my alternator should generate 70amps at idle but this is clearly not the case (assuming 3 pumps draw ~45 amps).
So, do I need: (i) alternator replacement/upgrade; (ii) smaller pulley for current alternator; or (iii) check the VSR and/or house battery?
THX2007 LSV
2315 Acme prop
Gravity III + 3 Johnsons
1100s in the rear, IBS upfront
Stock bags under the seats
HDPE Surf Platform
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08-11-2016, 12:56 PM #20Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Posts
- 2,522
Pretty much normal, the voltage gauges aren't very accurate. Use a volt meter to verify. When I have 3-4 pumps on my voltage will drop near or below 12. Your battery health plays a big role. I had to replace a battery the other day, having the heater on would cause perfect pass to reset and boat to stumble due to low voltage.
http://www.instgram.com/jlyons30
2002 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
2006 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
2017 Moomba Craz - Enzos, Lead