Results 141 to 150 of 161
Thread: 2015 Mondo Stereo Build
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09-08-2016, 03:24 PM #1412008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
www.TraysonsToybox.com
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09-08-2016, 04:07 PM #142
Finding the estimated current draw via any set calculation sure would be complex and inaccurate. The current draw is based on DC in but AC out. Music is very transient and so the draw is just a fraction of the of the DC to DC calculation. The amplifier efficiency comes into play, amplifier by amplifier and channel by channel. You have different amplifier classes (AB, H, D), efficiency changes at different impedance loads, efficiency changes at different power levels, and so on. Each system is different. Bad system set-up, bad system tuning, a bit of clipping, type of music, equalization, and many other factors can have a substantial impact on efficiency.
I recommend this. Upon your first typical long outing, starting the day with a fully charged battery bank, run the system at rest under normal conditions down to 12.0 volts. Now you're finished and you have your time.
Beyond that, the real experiences of others is as good of a reference as any.
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09-08-2016, 05:14 PM #143
Tray,
You can measure the current draw through the amp cables using an Amp-Clamp meter. Real easy if you have a trunk line that feeds all the amps. For a more conservative outcome, meaning the final number has you running out of battery sooner than reality, you can add up amp fusing and use that as your amp draw.
Again, the final number is an estimation at best. Too many variables to get an accurate number. Its best to use a conservative calculation and then over build the reserve, than to try and calculate down to the minute.
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09-08-2016, 05:36 PM #144
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09-08-2016, 05:43 PM #145
With all of that said, can we agree that 6+ hours at full volume with that amount of speakers/amps all on a single battery does not sound like an accurate guess?
2006 Supra 20 - Sold
2006 Supra 24 Gravity Games - Sold
2015 Supra SE450 - Sold
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09-08-2016, 05:53 PM #146
2015 Mondo Stereo Build
Maybe I have a hidden battery somewhere....shhhhh I'm not telling lol
Or maybe it's a very conservative number?
When I was researching my install he highly recommended me getting one. He used them all the time & work great. He didn't even sell it to me, he told me where I could get it cheaper. I was amazed at the sheer size and weight of this battery. He said they have an upgraded model which is in the shape of a briefcase but he didn't think I needed something like that for my system.
7+hrs & I didn't even have to switch batteries to start.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk2015 Mondo
Upgraded 900lb Rears, 250lb under Port Seat & 750lb IBS
2079 Prop
Auto Flow 2.0
Kicker Stereo: 2 800.5 amps, 2 400.2 amps, 4 KM8 towers , 4 KM10 subs & 8 KM6 cabin speakers
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09-08-2016, 08:25 PM #147
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09-09-2016, 09:04 AM #148
2015 Mondo Stereo Build
Awesome stereo build. Crikey, that has to be seriously loud.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk2017 Moomba Craz
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09-09-2016, 05:32 PM #1492008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
www.TraysonsToybox.com
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09-10-2016, 04:26 PM #150