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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    New Franklin, MO
    Posts
    179

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    For the applications that we use it for we aren't concerned about the joints being airtight. We actually take the stuff apart at night to clean and sanitize it. It's in a meat processing plant that mostly produces snack foods. In our world we have to be able to clean stuff completely and crevices are a bad thing so we build things to be taken apart at the end of the day.

    Maybe this isn't the best material for this application. I was just thinking since the piece that the sub is mounted to is HDPE I would use that and then I wouldn't have to worry about moisture.
    2015 Mobius LSV
    2014 Formula 350 CBR

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

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    With the right adhesive, I see no issue with using the HDPE.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    253

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    I have yet to find applicable adhesive for HDPE.

  4. #14

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    In this application, a woofer can create a surprising amount of internal pressure so a permanent airtight box is essential.
    It really needs to be a thermal bond which is the same as welding the materials together with the same material.
    Plastics and polymers are great in boats but I would go away from HDPE specifically on a boat sub enclosure.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
    Posts
    7,692

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason05216 View Post
    So this fall I've been upgrading the stereo system that came in our '15 LSV. It came with Kicker amp that is driving 6 cabin speakers and a 10" Kicker sub under the helm. I added an Exile 15.4 amp and a pair of XM9's to the tower. I also added a ZLD while I was doing the other stuff. That all went pretty smoothly other than getting the speaker wire through the tower. That was a PITA. Thanks to Brian at Exile for hooking me up with the equipment and getting me the deal on the ZLD even though I was a little early and for taking the time to help me and answer all my noob questions.

    After getting everything installed and working with the amps I was able to isolate the sub and discovered just how bad it sounds. I would describe the sound as a buzz, not a buzz like something was wrong, just a bad sound. I adjusted the Kicker amp and was able to make it sound some better but still not good. The amp is just mounted on the facade under the helm. It's not in an enclosure and the area into the bow seat certainly isn't sealed . The facade doesn't go all the way to the top.



    So I have decided that I'm going to enclose the sub. I have read several of the threads on here about doing this and had read about the infamous hump. I was leery of what I would find when I pulled it out. I was pleasantly surprised to find that there is no hump.




    There is only about a 1/2" lip there from the carpet to the fiberglass. And it looks like the hole that the ballast hose passes through is far enough back to not create any problems. The facade that the sub is mounted to is a piece of 3/4" HDPE.





    I think I can build an enclosure that will be 19.5"x16"x7" (inside dimensions) as shown by the tape and not have any issues with anything behind the facade and not have to move it forward either.

    We use HDPE at my business and I'm thinking I'll just use that to make the rest of the enclosure and just attach it to the existing facade. Is there any reason that I wouldn't want to do that? The sub measures 5" from the facade, is 7" enough depth? Also, the manual for the sub says I should have at least 1 cubic ft for the enclosure. This is bigger than that but I wasn't sure how much to subtract for the space the sub takes up?
    You will Have to move this forward as the conduit for the cables steering cable etc are in the way. I designed my sealed box upside down wedge to get the most foot room.
    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
    A Day in Powder...Endless


    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    New Franklin, MO
    Posts
    179

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    I did some measuring and I think if I hold it up 2 inches from the floor that it will fit without interfering with any of that stuff. I plan to make a cardboard mock-up to confirm that it all fits as I think it will. I also could fudge a little bit if need be by bringing the left side forward a bit. It just attaches with those brackets. The other side would require a bit more work if I have to go that route. I would have to cut the fascia board to go around the cup holder. That would also mean I would have to change the enclosure shape. Not wanting to go that route if possible.
    2015 Mobius LSV
    2014 Formula 350 CBR

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