Winterization & Maintenance Questions

[supervol0509]

I've started my first winterization and maintenance process. Learning a lot, but still have a long way to go. Some questions:

1. Replaces transmission and v-drive fluids last weekend. I found it difficult to read the transmission fluid dipstick. It looks like the fluid is up to the second tick mark. Is this fine? Is it a big deal to overfill? Is my target fill range between the two tick marks/bumps?

2. The engine manual recommends replacing the fuel filter during winterization. Does anyone know a make and model of fuel filter that would work for my boat? I can pull it out and look, but the boat is stored by the lake, so I'll have to go pull it out, look, then go to an auto parts store. If anyone happens to know, it would save me some time.

3. Winterization - I just called a place up by the storage place that will do winterization. This is just in case I run out of time. They said they are draining the block, and then pumping antifreeze back in. They said that some people had ended up with damage after last year's cold winter, and most manufacturers recommended pumping in antifreeze, nowadays. From looking through the "How To" threads, it appears that antifreeze is not recommended by the board, and that it shouldn't be required, if the block is drained. Should I be pumping in antifreeze? If so, how? I read that the antifreeze wouldn't even enter the block up to a certain engine temp.

Thanks.

[wolfeman131]

I think I paid less than $200 for Atlanta Marine to winterize my boat least season.

IMO, much less hassle than #3 above plus I don't waste time worrying if I did it correctly.

[bergermaister]

Have a look. Many many questions answered.

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....w-and-improved

[viking]

I normally flush RV antifreeze and then Drain. Probably overkill but peace of mind nonetheless. Drain block/manifolds of water, fill catch tub with approx 6 gallons of RV anti-freeze, place catchtub under the exhaust with a hose to your raw water intake. Run it to operating temp and shut off. Then drain block, manifolds, ect... again and whatever liquid is left anywhere will be majority RV antifreeze. I did this when I stored in unheated garage. Now I mainly drain and that's it since its winter home is a heated shop.

Your best bet on fuel filter is to take it in to parts store and get a replacement. Buy 2 so you don't have to do the same thing next time.

Recommended way to check tranny fluid is to do it in the water. Double check it all again next time to put in to see where it shows.

[supervol0509]

I normally flush RV antifreeze and then Drain. Probably overkill but peace of mind nonetheless. Drain block/manifolds of water, fill catch tub with approx 6 gallons of RV anti-freeze, place catchtub under the exhaust with a hose to your raw water intake. Run it to operating temp and shut off. Then drain block, manifolds, ect... again and whatever liquid is left anywhere will be majority RV antifreeze. I did this when I stored in unheated garage. Now I mainly drain and that's it since its winter home is a heated shop.

Your best bet on fuel filter is to take it in to parts store and get a replacement. Buy 2 so you don't have to do the same thing next time.

Recommended way to check tranny fluid is to do it in the water. Double check it all again next time to put in to see where it shows.

Got it on the fuel filter, and I'll check it when we put it in next Spring.

As I said, I'm new to this, so I don't quite understand your antifreeze process. I imagine the water pump is made to operate with the boat in the water, and there is sufficient pressure to keep the pump from cavitating. I would think the pump would cavitate if you were just sucking at the intake, without any positive pressure... even worse, it may not be pulling any water at all, and the pump could be running dry. Maybe it's not a huge deal, since the impeller is replaced so often...

[supervol0509]

I think I paid less than $200 for Atlanta Marine to winterize my boat least season.

IMO, much less hassle than #3 above plus I don't waste time worrying if I did it correctly.

I'm Atlanta area, too. The place I spoke with is doing fuel stabilizer, fogging, draining block, and repumping full of antifreeze for $99. Kind of want to learn how to do this myself, though. All of this maintenance will be a breeze the second time, and will probably save me at least $1,000/year, versus taking it to a marina or dealer.

[VA LSV]

Fuel filter - Napa 3299

[gregski]

Kind of want to learn how to do this myself, though. All of this maintenance will be a breeze the second time, and will probably save me at least $1,000/year, versus taking it to a marina or dealer.

Beyond the cost savings, I think it's a really good idea to do some of this basic maintenance yourself because: 1) it forces you to understand the various components of your boat and 2) it forces you to actually look at the working bits at least once a year. Plus none of it is very difficult, it's easier than working on a car.

I don't fill with antifreeze, I just drain. But for the antifreeze process: the raw water pump (impeller) has enough suction to lift water from a bucket. The concept is to create a small closed loop system where the pump pulls water/antifreeze from a bucket, it goes through the engine, out the exhaust and is caught back in the bucket thus closing the loop. You should use a non-collapsible hose to get from the bucket to the pump (I think some people have said they can use a garden hose, but I wouldn't) I would drain the water first so that the antifreeze actually fills the water jacket. Otherwise, you would need to run it in this configuration for a sufficient time for the engine to warm up, open the thermostat and fully mix the antifreeze with the water in the jacket - otherwise the antifreeze would simply bypass the engine and go out the exhaust.

[rdlangston13]

How are people hooking the hose up to the suction on the boat to suck up the antifreeze???

[gregski]

To use a garden hose, I disconnect the intake hose at the V-drive (the hose from the thru-hull) I use a small length of 1-1/4" hose that I connect to the V-drive with hose clamps exactly like the hose I just disconnected. Then I've got a couple of adapters to get from a 1-1/4" barb fitting to a garden hose. Just go to the hardware store and start playing with the gizmos and doo-hickeys until you get a combination that works. It took me 3-4 adapters to get there since they typically only step one size at a time, maybe about $10 in parts.

To do the anti-freeze from a bucket, I'd probably do about my same setup but use a reinforced hose instead of a garden hose.