Factory setup question

[David Analog]

The Kicker KM10 is a decent subwoofer but stands no chance in the factory application.
I suspect that the KM10 is a moderately high 'Q' sub that will work just okay in an infinite baffle application when used in limited power applications. But as mentioned above it will perform much better in a sealed enclosure of a displacement that is better balanced to this subwoofer.
The present application is not even 'infinite baffle' since there is very little front to rear acoustic isolation. The woofer is presently undamped = no acoustic resistance. The short distance over the top of the baffle means that any waveform longer/lower than the isolation distance is cut-off at a high rate. So presently....no power handling, no control, and no deep bass. It's not the fault of the woofer. The correct enclosure will remedy all this.

[MLA]

What are the buttons towards the bottom next to the power?

Is this regarding your amp, or the pic of Jason's amp? For the amp pictured above, Input Level = Hi/Low is to se the amp depending on the source level, like speaker outputs or RCA's. FADE OFF when using only a single set of RCA into the AMP-1 jacks, or FADE ON for when you are using front and rear RCAs into both Amp-1 and Amp-2 jacks. Sub = this determines where the sub gets its signal from. Passed through from the other chnls or direct from sub RCAs.

If your question is specific to your amp, post up what amp you have an we can see about getting you an answer.

[Jason05216]

Couple of questions...is there a trick to getting the front door open on the amp to see the settings? Manual says its magnetic but it doesnt readily open. Also, would it make sense that I would have to remove the amp from where it is mounted to be able to see the front? It is mounted so low that I think even if I got the door open I'm not going to be able to see anything. I went into the settings on the fusion head unit and set the sub zone to max. On the head unit the sub bypass is set to 55 MHz.

[MLA]

The access door on the KXM amp is held closed by two allen head screws.

Just for chits and giggles, change the position of the sub input button. Lets get its signal from the other RCA's. If that 55hz is the low-pass cross over, thats way to low for that 10" sub and killing its performance.

[Jason05216]

The 55 is changeable what would be more appropriate? I'll change that switch and see what happens.

[MLA]

Off or full-range or something higher then 150HZ

[David Analog]

It's much better to use a single active crossover filter. If given the option, I would set the source to 'full' and exclusively use the amplifier lowpass filter. I wouldn't want the cascading phase offset of two filters.

[Jason05216]

Here is what the manual says about the sub settings

SUBWOOFER — Select ‘Settings’ then ‘Zones’ then ‘Subwoofer’.
Select ‘Sub level’ to set the desired maximum subwoofer output volume.
Select ‘Sub Filter’ to select the desired cut-off frequency.
55Hz - 85Hz - 120Hz - 160Hz
Default: 85Hz

Set it at 160? I'll also try changing the sub input and see what happens.

[MLA]

Just change the position of the sub input button on the amp. The sub will then receive its signal from the full-range inputs that feed chnls 1-4.

[Brennen M]

I have the 2015 LSV as well. same set up with the fusion deck, kicker sub and amp. The bass in the sub was a complete joke. did a whole bunch of research and the factory mounting of the "free air" sub is technically wrong and nothing you do will make a big difference. the front and rear have to be completely separated and as stated there is the huge gap at the top. don't bother fiddling with the amps or the bass volume control. tried everything as well. Had the same sub mounted in a sealed box with the same kicker 800.5 amp and you would not believe the difference. the bass sounds awesome and is super clean. also added a JL sub driving Roswell spinvamp tower speakers. sounds great.