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Thread: amps
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08-25-2014, 04:27 PM #1
amps
All you guys running marine grade amps or no?
2003 Moomba Outback with 283 hrs on the 310HP Indmar. Its in Cherry condition also and now we will again start to use the boat after a few years off.
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08-25-2014, 04:32 PM #2
Yes, both mine are Marine.
2017 Centurion Ri237
2013 Supra SA450 - Sold
2006 Mobius LSV - Sold
2004 Stingray 190LS - Sold
2016 Nissan Titan XD - Tow Rig
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08-25-2014, 04:52 PM #3
Nooop. My amps are high and Dry. In order for them to get Wet I would need at least 1 foot of standing water in my boat. At that point amps are not my concern.
I am running Marine grade speakers, and Zone controller since my Wet hands touch those lol.Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
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08-25-2014, 05:03 PM #4
MM thanks for the response. That's what I am thinking also. Mine will be mounted higher too and if they get wet I have bigger concerns. I have a couple amps I used in my old car that I was trying to salvage. I think I will do it. They are sundown amps and put out good REAL power not overrated like most. Our boat is also on a hoist under a dock so not to concerned about rain either. I have marine grade speakers and stereo also.
2003 Moomba Outback with 283 hrs on the 310HP Indmar. Its in Cherry condition also and now we will again start to use the boat after a few years off.
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08-25-2014, 05:11 PM #5
not using at all. I am using arc audio, which for all intents, are identical to wetsounds however don't have the coatings on the boards for moisture. agree with mike that if the cubby fills up with water, much bigger problems. used rockford fosgate power series in the old supra and had 3 years on them with zero issues.
'06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten
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08-25-2014, 07:30 PM #6
There's more than direct contact with water to be concerned about. however, that said, I'm running regular car amps. A couple of Rockford Fosgate amps off ebay and a phoenix gold amp I got on a closeout online sale. I figure for the money I'm saving by getting used readily available car amps, I can skip the marine and if one dies, I'll get something else.
2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
www.TraysonsToybox.com
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08-25-2014, 07:37 PM #7
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08-25-2014, 08:33 PM #8
I hope you get a complete and accurate answer. I know where this thread will go, if I offer one.
Gqjeff,
Hate to break the bad news, but even with a quality marine built amp like Wet Sounds, Kicker, and JL, direct water contact could short it out. Just like realestate, its location location location! where you install the amp means more then anything. For fresh water trailer boats, there should be no issue using a car audio amp when a marine amp doesnt fit the application.
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08-26-2014, 12:40 PM #9Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- Edmond, OK
- Posts
- 33
^^^ I agree with MLA
The main reason for marine specific amps is not for the fish to hear the One Direction you're blasting as you're doing the submarine act with your boat. The reason is to handle the light splashing and the high humidity of the air in most mounting locations. This high moisture air works its way into regular amps and then condensates on the internal components and over time corrodes the circuit cards which makes all of the electrical paths smaller and smaller until the current gets too large for the conductor size and "POP" the blue smoke is let out and the ampy no worky. The amp could last for 5+ years depending on how much you dry your boat out after every trip. (All electronics run on blue smoke... If you let it out they don't work any more )
If you want to blast 1D while submarining then you need to buy amps and speakers that comply with the Liquid Ingress Protection section in the IP Code. This IP code is where you get the submersible ratings you see on other marine electronics. I haven’t looked but I would imagine that an IP67 submersible amp and speaker combo would be Sooper Dooper Pricey.William
2013 Mobius LSV
"Surf" Swim Platform, Gravity III Ballast Upgrade with 750s in the rear lockers and a Heater
JL M600/6 Amp, 6 Cabin Speakers (4 kicker & 2 Polk Audio), 2-Samson S7HD Tower Speakers, JL M10IB5 Sub
My Boat
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08-26-2014, 12:58 PM #10
A marinized amplifier is an essential if you are in a coastal or very brackish area.
I would prefer that any fan-cooled amplifier has a conformal coating because you are constantly pouring moist air over raw circuit traces and inviting corrosion to accumulate. I have seen this take its toll particularly on daughter boards.
Tough to beat a sealed amplifier with 100% of the terminals, connections and adjustments on one side....the bottom side.
A marinized amplifier will not help you if the amplifier comes in direct contact with water while the amplifier is 'On' and passing current. So if you suspect that the amplifiers got wet after taking a roller over the bow, immediately turn off the system.