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Thread: battery setup?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Irondequoit Bay, NY
    Posts
    1,372

    Default battery setup?

    So I just melted a terminal off my crank battery and I'm about to pick up a new one. My question is, how should I set up my batterys, I have one crank batt and two batterys for the acc's. I also have a battery switch with off, 1,2 and all. Is there a way where I can make it so I can lturn it to 1 to start the boat and then if im at the cove can I turn it to 2 so all I do is just drain those batt and when I get low I can turn it back to 1 so I can start the boat and charge them back up?
    2004 Outback Blue/white w/5.7 indmar 350, Direct Drive
    Rockford fasgate cabins
    Rockford fasgate 500w amp (cabin) and a kenwood HU (kmr700u)
    Exile XM7's
    Exile Harpoon
    Exile ZLD
    Polk 10in sub (2)
    Polk P330 amp (subs)

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by motosno963 View Post
    So I just melted a terminal off my crank battery and I'm about to pick up a new one. My question is, how should I set up my batterys, I have one crank batt and two batterys for the acc's. I also have a battery switch with off, 1,2 and all. Is there a way where I can make it so I can lturn it to 1 to start the boat and then if im at the cove can I turn it to 2 so all I do is just drain those batt and when I get low I can turn it back to 1 so I can start the boat and charge them back up?
    Sure, just make certain that everything positive (alternator/starter feed, helm buss, and ALL audio equipment) comes off the dual battery switch 'C' output post and that nothing is wired battery-direct, except poles #1 & #2 of the switch, and with the exception of a bilge pump & float switch if you moor the boat.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    North Mississippi
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Don't want to hijack your thread but I have a similar question. I have a dual battery setup; crank battery and house battery using a perko with a combiner. So, my crank battery is hooked to the perko for cranking only. My house battery has what I'm thinking is way too many wires hooked up to the smaller positive wingnut terminal:
    A lead going to a marine breaker to the helm bus
    2 leads going to two separate heavy awg fuse blocks for amps
    A lead going to another marine breaker to a fuse bus for ballast pumps
    A lead to the perko
    And a lead from an onboard battery charger.
    So, how should I address / clean this up?
    Thanks
    2008 Mobius LSV
    1100#er's in the lockers
    ski locker sac
    IBS
    Johnson reversibles
    3 vent heater (which my family loves)

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by ninedriver View Post
    Don't want to hijack your thread but I have a similar question. I have a dual battery setup; crank battery and house battery using a perko with a combiner. So, my crank battery is hooked to the perko for cranking only. My house battery has what I'm thinking is way too many wires hooked up to the smaller positive wingnut terminal:
    A lead going to a marine breaker to the helm bus
    2 leads going to two separate heavy awg fuse blocks for amps
    A lead going to another marine breaker to a fuse bus for ballast pumps
    A lead to the perko
    And a lead from an onboard battery charger.
    So, how should I address / clean this up?
    Thanks
    First, a Perko switch is an odd pairing with a combiner (ACR/VSR/voltage sensing relay or solenoid). I would change over to the Blue Sea dual circuit battery switch.
    Second, in respect to 'battery-direct' a ACR/VSR scheme is very different from a conventional dual battery manual switch set-up. So this is a normal difference.
    Third, I do NOT like to a) stack more than three terminal lugs on one post, and b) stack varying gauges of lugs & wires on the same post. So you are correct to remedy this where it is realistic.
    Fourth, I would set up the helm buss and alternator/starter feed off the starting battery circuit of the switch output terminal. Then I would go stereo-direct, ALL stereo, including the source electronics, direct to the stereo bank circuit of the switch output side. I would leave the two independent banks of the battery charger direct to each battery. The pump could go to that same post. Note that the Blue Sea has nice big 3/8" posts that are a little longer.
    You're also going to be adding a terminal to each of the switch circuits output post for the ACR/VSR. That totals four lugs on that particular post. Just keep it between us two.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    North Mississippi
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Thanks for the information and suggestions. Before I can get to cleaning everything up, would there be any issues with running one large awg lead off the house battery positive terminal to a positive buss bar to which I could attach the various positive leads. Sort of a temp fix to get all the leads off the battery post on which the wing nut is barely grabbing a couple of threads...
    2008 Mobius LSV
    1100#er's in the lockers
    ski locker sac
    IBS
    Johnson reversibles
    3 vent heater (which my family loves)

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ninedriver View Post
    Thanks for the information and suggestions. Before I can get to cleaning everything up, would there be any issues with running one large awg lead off the house battery positive terminal to a positive buss bar to which I could attach the various positive leads. Sort of a temp fix to get all the leads off the battery post on which the wing nut is barely grabbing a couple of threads...
    No problem. But when I think of a buss bar I envision one with smaller terminals, whether Phillips pan head or smallish posts. You should have no less than 5/16" posts. If you use a large distribution block (like 0-gauge in/multi 2-gauge out) with set screws perhaps it can be a permanent part of your install.

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