Researching "quick winterization" options

[trayson]

I was thinking of adding a "quick winterization" option to my boat.

I've seen this kit: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM001



After fighting with my boat this spring I never want to have to take out my block drain plugs again. I made a big screw up and when I winterized, I took out the plugs and didn't replace them. So I got tons of rust on my threads. FML!!!

I also realized that the Port side engine plug was bigger than the rest, meaning that someone had probably been previously stripped out and re-tapped to the next bigger size. The starboard one I had a really hard time getting sealed but finally got it to the point where it either sealed or just barely oozed a tiny drip over a few seconds.

Anyway, I'm wondering about a few things.

1) When I winterized, I blew the water out of my heater core. I'd assume that I need to install some kind of drain on that line too so that I could get the water out of there.
2) When I winterized, I removed my impeller. I have the sherwood water pump that has the drain hole at the bottom. If I utilized that drain, could I get by with a 'quick winterization' where I left the impeller in place?

The reason I'm asking all this is because we're having a forecast for a warmer, dryer winter this year. That means a crappy snowboard season, but it could open up the opportunity to take the boat out for a quick set if it didn't mean a whole "winterization production" afterwards...

While This year I'll have covered storage, it still won't be fully indoor or heated. However, I live in the Pacific NW where winter lows hover just above or just barely below freezing. Occasionally we'll have cold snaps into the 20's but it's fairly rare. Temps in the teens almost never happen here. So it's not like I have to do a winterization that would require draining the block and filling with antifreeze.

Also, please keep your feedback constructive. I can live w/o a bunch of overzealous negativity...

[zabooda]

I used something similar for the engine block for years. I've had to replace one that over time failed to seat completely and started to drip.

[trayson]

I'm thinking I'd need to add something where I could easily blow out the heater core line as well... Thoughts?



Again, the idea is only partially to make winterization easier. But really the idea is to be able to add a margain of safety on those questionable nights when you could "probably" get away without winterizing. And to add a big degree of utility. Bottom line is that there are plenty of days in the PNW's "winter" where with my drysuit, booties, and gloves, we could totally get out and have a blast surfing aside from the fact that it's too much of an ordeal to winterize and de-winterize the boat for one trip out here or there... Basically what happens is that I say it's not worth the hassle of putting the boat on the water because while winterization isn't hard per se, it ends up being a little bit of a production...

If a few valves = enough winterization ease to justify some winter drysuit sets, then why not?? It's not like we get winters like the midwest. The coldest our rivers get are mid 40's and the air temps in the middle of winter are typically in the 50's...

[bergermaister]

I have never removed my impeller for winterizing - AWS didn't do it when I paid for their service so I've followed suit. I do disconnect both hoses to it though which takes maybe 1 minute.

On the block plugs - I'm with you on finding a better solution - at least on the one w/o the knock senser. It's a PITA to get to with the tranny cooler thing there.

[gregski]

I have never removed my impeller for winterizing - AWS didn't do it when I paid for their service so I've followed suit. I do disconnect both hoses to it though which takes maybe 1 minute.

Me too. (And my experience is that impellers actually have a life span over 5 years.)

[zabooda]

My impeller is good for about four years. The drain on the heater hose would be hard to do as the lowest point is usually somewhere not accessable like under the floor. if you had one 3-way valve at least you could blow it out without removing the hoses.

[gregski]

For the heater core, you could install a drain into the hose. Something like the hose adapters available from thewinterizer.com: http://thewinterizer.com/index.php?I...category_id=15
I'm sure you could source those parts elsewhere but you get the idea. (Their system uses a hand pump to pump air or antifreeze into the various drains, etc. - It might be worth looking at for ideas)

[trayson]

For the heater core, you could install a drain into the hose. Something like the hose adapters available from thewinterizer.com: http://thewinterizer.com/index.php?I...category_id=15
I'm sure you could source those parts elsewhere but you get the idea. (Their system uses a hand pump to pump air or antifreeze into the various drains, etc. - It might be worth looking at for ideas)

Yeah, and since I've been looking into this, I've found the "Y" modification where you put the heater core inlet between the raw water intake and your fresh water pump because I guess it circulates water better when the engine is idling. In this case, I would think I could put a "drain" port on the line where the heater core outputs water and use that as a place to blow water in (which would push air into the heater core and in turn push the heater core water out the fresh water intake...

It works in my head anyway... I think I'd chat with Skidim a little to be sure since they know a lot about the Heater Craft Y-fitting...

Kill two birds with one stone there. Better heater function and easier winterization.

[parrothd]

Home depot..

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[trayson]

Home depot..

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