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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Clermont, Fl
    Posts
    586

    Default Alas, another Perko question...

    How do you guys connect all positive loads to the common of the Perko?

    I don't have enough room on that post.

    A lot of things like amps are connected directly to the house battery.

    You create (or use) some kind of bus or distribution block to feed the Common terminal?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
    Posts
    7,692

    Default

    I am no expert here, but only one positive per battery to the switch.
    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
    A Day in Powder...Endless


    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

    Default

    Thats one of the downsides of the actual Perko brand battery switch.....its very shallow with short studs. A couple of solutions are to either use a heavy duty buss bar or a remote stud. This leaves the main starter cable and a short jumper to the buss or remote std, the only B+ cables on the "C" post.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Clermont, Fl
    Posts
    586

    Default

    That's what I'm thinking - some type of junction stud that can be covered. Not sure how a heavy buss would be insulated.


    Anyone have any photos of how they handled this?
    Last edited by slipperyrockTKE300; 06-16-2014 at 12:01 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

    Default

    Both BEP Marine and Blue Sea make BUS Bar with available covers.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Clermont, Fl
    Posts
    586

    Default

    Thank you!

    One more question....any idea of what rating to get? Would this be a case where more is definitely better?

  7. #7

    Default

    I would only have three connections off the Perko common/output post total....1) the factory alternator starter feed, 2) the factory helm buss feed leading to the factory breaker, and 3) a feed to ALL audio equipment via a distribution block and proceeding breaker. You have plenty of depth on the studs for that. I have never found the depth of the Perko studs to be a problem because I am dead set against stacking more than three termination lugs on any post of any brand.
    If you have an issue with the various cables clearing the switch body, just elevate the switch with simple spacers.
    I would use a distribution block rather than the typical bus bar for this application because I don't want any connecting stud less than 5/16" diameter.
    Most any distribution block with a 2-gauge 'in' and multiple 4-gauge 'out' will automatically provide the current capacity that you need....unless you have some pretty darn big amplifiers.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Clermont, Fl
    Posts
    586

    Default

    Thanks David. I'll definitely use your suggestions

    I have a JL Audio marine amp for the cabin speakers - no idea what model and a Harpoon for the tower.

    I was thinking a 1/4" stud, but I agree - probably go 5/16 or 3/8. Lots of that type around.

    Mucho appreciate the response!

    If you have time, please see my latest "checking capacitor" thread.

    e

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