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Thread: Protection from beaching
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06-13-2014, 11:32 AM #21
Ahhh, thanks for the reminder. I've been meaning to get one of these. Just found one for $34 shipped on ebay.
I can respect that. I'm all about keeping something nice, but I'm also one that will USE my toys the way I want. My Jeep for example has all sorts of scratches and even some minor dents from wheelin'. Anyone that sees it comments that it's obvious that I USE my jeep. It's not an ugly mess, but I wheel it hard.
If beaching your boat adds to the enjoyment and doesn't actually hurt it in any measurable way, then more power to ya. Obviously there's risk with any action. That's why we all have to make our own risk/reward decisions.2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
www.TraysonsToybox.com
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06-13-2014, 12:06 PM #22Banned
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- Clermont, Fl
- Posts
- 586
"That's why we all have to make our own risk/reward decisions."
Exactlly. And environmental differences play a huge part in those decisions.
My lake bottoms are really fine sand. I'm sure most of you wouldn't mind beaching in those conditions.
Would I beach the boat if the lake bottom was rock (Lake Lanier for example) - absolutely not!
In my environment, I've actually had more damage done from waves banging the boat against a dock - the one time I had to pick up an elderly couple.
It is an all black hull.
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06-13-2014, 12:27 PM #23
+1 for the anchor buddy. Set it and forget it. Crack a beer and watch everyone else (without the anchor buddy) reset their boat 3-4 times a day.
2014 Moomba Mondo - Exile Tower/Sub/ZLD/EXBT4/Amps (2x), Hertz Cabin - Evolution Cover - 650 IBS, 900s Rear, Center Hard Tank, Flow
1969 Bayliner Tahiti - 120 HP Force Outboard - Gone but not forgotten
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06-13-2014, 02:09 PM #24
So, could someone shed some more light on the anchor buddy, box anchor, sand spike set up. Do you back the boat in to about 10' of water and toss the box anchor with an anchor buddy attached off the bow? Then attach another line to the stern and pull it taught and attach to a sand spike? This way I guess the stern of the boat would be facing the shore?
Also, is the anchor buddy attached directly to the box anchor and to the boat or is there more line involved?
I'm trying to figure this out as I plan on camping at a local lake and would like to anchor my boat off shore and wade in to grab lunch and take breaks. There's no docks on this lake and I don't feel like trailering it each time.
Thanks again2008 Mobius LSV
1100#er's in the lockers
ski locker sac
IBS
Johnson reversibles
3 vent heater (which my family loves)
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06-13-2014, 02:23 PM #252008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
www.TraysonsToybox.com
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06-13-2014, 02:24 PM #26
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06-13-2014, 02:33 PM #27
That part where he drove it right up to the rocks with only the bungee keeping him from bashing them as he stepped off made me nervous!!!
But to ninedriver:
1) Toss your ancher that's attached to the stretchy anchor buddy line out into the water away from shore.
2) Get the anchor set into the bottom.
3) ease your boat in towards shore and get out when it's shallow enough or you're close enough
4) Tie a line to the other end of your boat and run that line to shore.
5) The anchor buddy will retract, pulling your boat away from shore (towards the anchor) and your boat will me moored in the deeper water.
6) when it's time to get your boat, pull the boat towards the shore using the line that goes from shore to boat, and get in.
7) the anchor buddy will again pull you out into the deeper water
8 ) either pull the anchor buddy and the anchor in, or attach a bouy to your anchor line and reattach that later.
You would be able to use this approach with EITHER the bow or the stern facing shore. Just attach the anchor to the part you want facing away from shore and the shore line to the part you want facing shore.
Also see pic:
Last edited by trayson; 06-13-2014 at 02:35 PM.
2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, WS Rev 410's, Polk Cabins, 3 Infinity Subs, PPI amps, WS420, Exile BT, upgraded ballast pumps, up to 3,500+ pounds of ballast, Blue LED's...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2009 Audic A6 Avant 3.0T, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
www.TraysonsToybox.com
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06-13-2014, 03:40 PM #28
Lika dis-
Careful with the buddy system though - a good current or wind/waves can stretch it further than you wanted and cause havoc.
Getting it set right without looking like a rookie can be a trick the first time or two. My highly scientific method is to usually drop everybody on the beach, push off or motor out to about the spot/depth that looks right, toss the anchor/buddy/buoy over. Try to remember to hold onto the rope. Keep boat idling.
Then hook rope to front cleat, curse at going around the tower with the rope on the wrong side, tie off rope on back cleat, line up and burp throttle in reverse back towards the shore, kill it, bail out with my $5 homemade sand spike T and rope in waste deep (hopefully) water, then let boat drift back out a ways. Curse more at finding the hardest spot on the beach to drive the sand spike in. Spend 10 minutes untangling rope loops. Tie off the boat.
Then pull it back in to test setup and grab beer that was left warming itself in the cupholder, fire up tunes, etc. We always face out for better wave handling, platform loading/unloading and tune displacement.
I've found it's much easier to do this with just one helper either on the beach or in the bow rather than a boat load of obstacles since you have to move pretty quickly - at least in a river current.
Would also recommend a brightly colored floating rope for your beach tie off - way less likely to get tripped over or ran over (or left behind)...So when is this "old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
2001 MobiusV - Slightly Modified...
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06-13-2014, 08:01 PM #29
Tray and Berg,
Thanks for the replies and explanations. I can already see myself attempting Berg's "highly scientific" method and adding a few expletives....
And berg, on that pic, how much clearance is there between your rudder/prop and the river bottom? Do they ever make contact?2008 Mobius LSV
1100#er's in the lockers
ski locker sac
IBS
Johnson reversibles
3 vent heater (which my family loves)
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06-14-2014, 01:25 AM #30
When loading people on the back the rudder/prop has definitely made contact before but that's on a sandy river bottom and just a little. Only one at a time on the platform helps. When someone like my parents in their mid 70's are climbing in I will pull it in as far as I can and let it touch the sand. Figure it's worth it since they won't be able to go out with us too many more years.
When the buddy pulls the boat out the depth can really be whatever you want - I like to keep the boat closer in when possible with some tension on the line; usually try to be in at least 5ft of water at the stern when it's out. We occasionally get some big rollers washing up and the kids like to swim around it. (Ok ok, it's that much closer when you need another beer...)
Bringing the boat in to load up just use your personal thermometer as about the depth to pull the boat to.
Yep - bout right there.
So when is this "old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
2001 MobiusV - Slightly Modified...