How much difference will a (ZLD or WS-420) make?

[Jwredmon101]

Talked to the owner of the sound shop on the sub.. he says the guy he had to build the box built it to the specs for a sealed box for the memphis pr 12 .. thats why he didnt go with a ported box because of the space requirements. so the only thing i have to go off of is that it is boxed correctly. but I cant find the specs online

[MLA]

Ok, good. Lets just assume that the net volume is in the house of what memphis suggests.

All head-unit EQ and loudness settings off/flat.

Lo-Pass cross-over frequency = I would start with it at 100Hz, but buy time I was done, I think it would end up a bit lower, like 80hz. Theres not dead-set point, it plays into the woofer, the box and the in-boats.

Bass-Boost = Off/zero for now. There may need to be some trial and error with adding a little boost, but I would rather add blocks to the box to tighten it up though.

Gain = Cant really ball-park this one since I have no personal experience with this amp/sub setup. its much easier to use google to find a gain setting by ear tutorial, hen for me to type the hole thing out. Just note, sub distortion is a lot harder to detect then full-range speaker distortion. Also, turn the sub knob all the way for that gain setting.

For the in-boat amp:

Cross-over filter needs to be set to Hi-pass for both halves of the amp.

cross-over point = I would start at a 100Hz and would not hesitate to go as low as 80Hz. It gets tricky when balancing the in-boat and sub cross-over points.

Gain = same procedure as above, but hearing the full-range distort is much easier.

No Bass-Boost, but it should be defeated with filter in hi-pass mode.

Tower amp:

Again, needs to be in hi-pass mode. How are the RCA run, mono or stereo? I like mono on tower speakers, but thats another day.

[MLA]

Memphis suggest 1.09 cf3 net

[Jwredmon101]

Will have to take a look at some of this tonight.. At work now but will get back to this tonight. Ty for the info.

[Brianinpdx]

JW - good talk today. Glad we got you cleared up. For those following this thread, it turns out the shop that JW had install the equipment encouraged him to run the speakers in "All Pass" mode for towers and cabins because they felt running speakers in "High Pass" mode would loose mid bass. (ahem)=== W T H ? LOL.

In talking this out on the phone, its important to understand some fundamentals. You absolutely want to knock out the un needed, un wanted portion of the freq spectrum from a cabin or tower speaker. Same is true with a sub woofer as well. Because not doing so forces the speaker to work hard outside its limitations.

Going back to the OP's original post about the speakers flapping, this is directly related to the speakers seeing to much bottom end (in all pass mode). Optimizing the speakers so they function efficiently is of paramount importance. Doing so allows for higher play volumes and much better sound quality sans mechanical noises. I asked JW to attack his system with the guidelines I laid out for him and report back to the forums his own 1/2/3:::: Where he was / what he changes / How it sounds afterward.

Cheers all

-Brian

[kaneboats]

Nice work, Brian. So glad you take the time with all of us. Doesn't do any good to have decent equipment if everything is set all wrong. Hope I get a chance to meet you next week.

[sandm]

I am glad to see a couple guys posting in this and offering solutions..

to the op.. I like the ws/zld options only for the addition of a quick way to balance out the towers or turn them off when at the party cove. don't wanna be "that guy" filling up more of the lake with my choice of tunes.. turns into a stereo war too quickly which only pisses off others and promotes noise ordinances

[David Analog]

We certainly understand that an in-boat and/or tower speaker will pop and flap from running 'fullrange' with too much power.
However, running 'fullrange' on a subwoofer would not create the same noise for the same reason. So you better isolate exactly why the subwoofer has a pronounced pop/slap/flap since it is a different cause. Bass EQ boost, tone control bass accentuation, too low of a crossover point, too much gain, non-sealed enclosure, too small or too large of an enclosure, or a combination of.

[Brianinpdx]

@Kane - When are we ripping into your stereo sir. Aren't you about due for a redo? It's always a pleasure helping guys out. some prefer it in private. Others in public. Either way its all good. It will be fun to see how JW does on his tune. -Brian

[Jwredmon101]

@Kane - When are we ripping into your stereo sir. Aren't you about due for a redo? It's always a pleasure helping guys out. some prefer it in private. Others in public. Either way its all good. It will be fun to see how JW does on his tune. -Brian

Hopefully I Get This Done Today.. The Week After AHholiday Is Always busy