Can my stock distribution block run off my house battery?

[chushen]

As the title asks...

I am about to add another battery to my system by way of blue sea + acr, I was going to run my WS420 off my stock Stereo switch which is obviously connected to my stock dist. block under the dash.

I can't think why running ALL of my accessories off the house battery (an interstate group 29 DC) would be bad. As I've read it's better to have all of the audio running off the same battery anyway.

Can anyone offer any suggestions as to either way this should be handled?


Thanks in advance.

[zabooda]

Bilge pump off main battery. You want to make sure you have the pump available when needed so if the battery is good enough to start the engine it is good enough to run the pump. If you drain the house battery the pump will not start automatically.

[chushen]

Bilge pump off main battery. You want to make sure you have the pump available when needed so if the battery is good enough to start the engine it is good enough to run the pump. If you drain the house battery the pump will not start automatically.

I had not considered the bilge... Thank you.

[MLA]

I was going to run my WS420 off my stock Stereo switch which is obviously connected to my stock dist. block under the dash.

As I've read it's better to have all of the audio running off the same battery anyway.

Yes, and terminating the EQ's B+ to the head-units turn-on rocker would likely have the EQ "seeing" reference voltage from the main cranking battery. Reason being, typically the helm BUSS is tied to the main cranking battery as thats what supplied the engine and engine related loads. I would leave it this way and relocate any accessories that you want to run while the engine is off, to the new house bank.

[Beejwest]

I did the Blue Sea and am now having some noise out of my tower speakers. Both amps are grounded to the house battery, and the factory wiring also got connected to the house battery. My sub and tower speakers are on one amp, and all 6 in boat speakers are on the other. If I move the factory ground back to the start battery, could it potentially clean up this noise? I've also read that I may want to unhook the head unit ground from the harness and wire it straight to the battery for ground?

[MLA]

At the end of the day, all boat grounds are common anyway, but there are some advantages to taking the source unit's ground close to the amps. But, I would be willing to bet that the head-unit's yellow B+ is drawing from the original cranking battery, thus the noise.