Results 21 to 30 of 33
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10-08-2013, 07:59 PM #21
When you drain your exhaust manifolds via the quick disconnect you have to make sure that water flows from both lines.....the drain hose/fitting on the manifold can become plugged and the manifold may not drain completely. I placed a t on mine and clamping one hose I can drain one manifold at a time to make sure neither fitting is plugged.....just poke your block drain hole and you will see the debris that can plug holes
09 21v LAUNCH
99 Outback LS. Sold
run your engine after you change your oil
68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
Doug
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10-11-2013, 08:25 AM #22Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Posts
- 30
Hi, after reading your posts, I think I found the solution that I will use. First I will drain (block, manifold, etc) and then fill with antifreeze with this method :
I will put a tubular system into the exhaust so I can have all the antifreeze into a bucket wich is pumped back to the "main" antifreeze bucket. The "main" antifreeze bucket is connected to the boat via a fake-a-lake.
In this way, I don't loose liquid on the ground, I make a antifreeze loop so the boat can run idle for the necessary period. I also plan to use the same antifreeze solution for more than one winter. In my case the antifreeze will be an glycolic pink that need to be diluated (depending on the antifreeze level you need but around 50%). I think (and hope) it is a good solution, I just need to buy a pump2012 Moomba Mojo 2.5
2x1100lbs, 370lbs, center hard tank+IBS
ACME 1235 prop
Wakeboard Hyperlite Belmont
Wakeskate Hyperlite Byerly
Wakesurf Hyperlite Broadcast 5.4
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10-11-2013, 09:17 AM #23
I ran a fake lake for 15 mins and then changed my oil, after this i pulled all my plugs ( trans/motor) disconnected my hoses, opened up my heater hoses and blew out water, drained water out of ballasts pumps added antifreeze to them. Once all this was completed i plumbed in a hose to intake of the water strainer were the water comes into the boat from the lake and cycled antifreeze through the boat for 20 mins, approx 4 gallons of antifreeze is sitting in the system, pulled the impeller. Once that was done i pulled the spark plugs and squirted a bit of oil into each cylinder. I hope this works cause it gettin cold out.
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10-11-2013, 09:25 AM #2409 21v LAUNCH
99 Outback LS. Sold
run your engine after you change your oil
68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
Doug
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10-11-2013, 09:38 PM #25
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10-12-2013, 06:59 AM #26Junior Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Sewickley, PA
- Posts
- 14
Agreed; there should be plenty of suction; no need for pump
Agreed; no need for a pump. In fact, when we winterized our I/O with this method, there was enough water suction that it would suck the hose flat to the bottom of the bucket. We solved this by drilling a few holes in the hose, and notching the cut end so it wasn't flat.
Also: we added an extra rust inhibitor to our anti-freeze (like this: http://prestone.com/enca/node/425 ). Note that although it looks in the internet picture like a typical gallon container, it's just 14 ozs. in real life.David Bishop
2006 Outback V
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10-12-2013, 01:45 PM #27
Here you go:
https://forum.moomba.com/album.php?albumid=320
2007 Outback - SOLD June 2016
2012 RAM Crew Cab
2015 Subaru Forester
Stuart
"When you first start out with something new, you're always a little uptight." - Don Rickles
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10-14-2013, 09:35 AM #28Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Posts
- 30
I think this will be the way I will do to winterize my Mojo :
Winterization part 1 (at the lake)
Put the boat on the trailer
Clean the hull
Empty the ballasts
Put the fuel stabilizer
Full the tank
Winterization part 2 (at home)
Clean water filters (if present)
Remove the ballasts and clean/dry them
Drain water in the block, manifold, V-drive, etc
Check V-drive anode and replace if necessary (min 19mm)
Reconnect all the drain and hoses
Connect the fake-a-lake “loop without pump” system with antifreeze
Run the engine for 10-15 minutes
Check engine temperature !!
Wait few minutes for the oil to cool down
Change engine, V-drive, Gearbox oil and oil filter
Run the engine few minutes
Remove spark plug and spray fogging oil in each cylinder
Run the starter 1 second without starting the engine (you have to disconnect “something”)
Install old spark plugs
Inspect the belts and replace if necessary
Remove the battery and keep it inside and charged during winter
Remove the water pump impeller, grease it and place it in a sealed bag
Remove the ballast impellers, grease them and place them in a sealed bag
Grease steering cables, starter bendix, etc
Clean your boat inside/outside
Place dehumidifier in your boat
Put something under each seat and cover to allow air to circulate
Put the cover and store your boat
During the winter
Check if the dehumidifier are not full
Keep the battery inside, connected to a charger to maintain it charged
Before the season part 1 (at home)
Remove dehumidifier
Check and refresh your antifouling if necessary
Check and replace the anodes under the hull if necessary
Remove the old spark plugs and spray fogging oil in each cylinder
Run the starter 1 second without starting the engine (you have to disconnect “something”)
Install new spark plugs with dielectric grease
Clean flame arrestor and breather hose and replace PCV valve
Drain antifreeze in the block, manifold, etc (keep it for next winter)
Install raw water impeller
Reconnect all the drain and hoses
Install ballasts impellers
Install ballasts
Install battery
Clean your boat
Before the season part 2 (at the lake)
Put the boat in the water, be careful to be sure that the thru hull intake for the raw water is in the water
Start your engine and check the temperature
During the season
Check oil level (block, V-drive and Gearbox) at each time you refuel
Replace block, V-drive and Gearbox oil and the oil filter each 30-35 hours2012 Moomba Mojo 2.5
2x1100lbs, 370lbs, center hard tank+IBS
ACME 1235 prop
Wakeboard Hyperlite Belmont
Wakeskate Hyperlite Byerly
Wakesurf Hyperlite Broadcast 5.4
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10-14-2013, 10:39 AM #29
What are you going to grease the impellers with? I would suggest 100% silicone over anything thats petroleum based
How many hours on your 2012? It will not need new plugs, unless its time based on hours. If thats the case, then the wires, cap and rotor if applicable, would also be due.
The only thing different I would do, is fire the boat up on the fake-a-lake first, as opposed to doing at the ramp. Just in case.
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10-15-2013, 09:25 AM #30Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Posts
- 30
I will grease the impellers with Motul Tech Grease 300 (Multipurpose grease, formulated with synthetic base oil stocks and from complex lithium soap, with extreme-pressure, anti-wear, anti-oxidation and anti-corrosion additivation).
My 2012 add about 435h when I bought it and now 500h (I did 65h this season). In the indmar manual they say to change spark plug annualy, that's why I plan to do it.
I'm not sure to understand your last point... I don't plan to fire the boat up at the ramp but at home, do you mean I should connect the fake a lake on the ramp first and not at home ? I never plan to fire up the boat without the fake-a-lake. In wich case ?
Thanks