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Thread: Prop help!!

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Spring, TX
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    Default Prop help!!

    We hit something today and bent the crud out of one of the blades on my prop, i don't have a puller yet so havent removed it but looking behind the prop the key is off allignment is this normal or perhaps it spun when we hit something. If the prop key spun on the shaft what needs to be replaced or what other issues should i look for? Everthing looks OK other than the prop and possibly this key.prop 2.jpgprop 1.jpgprop 3.jpg
    2008 22SSV Worlds

  2. #2

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    Thats a bummer, never seen a prop key damaged like that with my boat, but have had to pull my prop and get it repaired a couple times, really helps I have a spare from the first time it was damaged. The guys at Nettle Props always do a great job fixing my props, looks like you will probably need a new key also. The prop puller I bought from them comes in handy when trying to remove, just remember to not crank the crap out of the puller to get the prop to release, crank it down a bit and hit the end of the drive shaft with a hammer to get it to release.
    Good luck
    06 Mobius LSV, GIII (now with 1100 in the port locker), perfect pass, wakeplate
    Kicker KM10 Sub, dual batteries

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    160

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    Quote Originally Posted by Worlds22SSV View Post
    We hit something today and bent the crud out of one of the blades on my prop, i don't have a puller yet so havent removed it but looking behind the prop the key is off allignment is this normal or perhaps it spun when we hit something. If the prop key spun on the shaft what needs to be replaced or what other issues should i look for? Everthing looks OK other than the prop and possibly this key.prop 2.jpgprop 1.jpgprop 3.jpg
    You are ok. The brass key is much softer than the stainless shaft.

    Getting it off is going to suck however. A puller will probably not get it off. You can try heating it. Use a torch and heat the straight shot between the blades from front to back. Pay attention to the cutlass bearing and be careful not to get it too hot. Once you get it to about 600F, beat the backside (on the meaty part of the blades) with a rubber mallet.

    If this doesn't work (and it may not) I would cut off the blade nearest the keyway. Then cut the prop like this guy did in this picture.

    9521702840_4dc868196f_z.jpg
    Instead of cutting all of the way to the shaft cut into the keyway so you don't damage the shaft.

    It sucks, but it's not as hard as it looks.
    Last edited by NateHaskovec; 08-19-2013 at 09:37 AM.
    Nate

    2008 XLV GG (sold)
    2013 LSV

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Tallahassee, FL
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    Wow! That had to be quite a strike to do that to the key. I haven't seen that one either but I doubt a puller is going to get it off now.
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV (sold)
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    LLTR!!!!!!!!



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Spring, TX
    Posts
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    This is what happens when you begin to get comfortable with the wife driving the boat as i wakeboard.

    How do i replace the key? how is it attached to the shaft? Let's say i can get it off without cutting the prop is the blade repairable? if i am able to hold the shaft in place can i somewhat knock the prop back in allign with the key?
    2008 22SSV Worlds

  6. #6
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    Aug 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Worlds22SSV View Post
    This is what happens when you begin to get comfortable with the wife driving the boat as i wakeboard.

    How do i replace the key? how is it attached to the shaft? Let's say i can get it off without cutting the prop is the blade repairable? if i am able to hold the shaft in place can i somewhat knock the prop back in allign with the key?
    The key is not attached at all. It just rides in the keyway and is held in place by a tight fit since the prop bore is tapered, and the keyway in the shaft has a grade on the forward end.

    You will not get the prop off with a puller. Once you spin a key, the prop is now on the shaft with an exponentially higher amount of friction holding it on. The key sandwhiches itself between the prop and shaft making the fit so tight that you will bend or break a puller way before the prop thinks about coming off.

    You will never be able to prevent the shaft from spinning in order to try to reverse the rotation, and even if you could, you would mangle the prop and possibly bend the shaft if you try to spin it back.

    Heat the $h!# out of it, and try it, but be prepared to cut it or have someone else cut it.

    The prop is a loss.

    P.S. Do not get nimbral shavings in your eyes.

    EDIT: The more I look at it, the more I would go straight to cutting.
    Last edited by NateHaskovec; 08-19-2013 at 10:38 AM.
    Nate

    2008 XLV GG (sold)
    2013 LSV

  7. #7
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    You might be able to save the prop (assuming they can repair the keyway-- don't know about this but a call to Nettles would certainly answer it). You will have to unbolt the shaft coupling and remove it and then slide the shaft out. Take it to a machine shop with the prop on where they can heat it and remove it.
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV (sold)
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    LLTR!!!!!!!!



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    On a NorCal Lake Somewhere!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Worlds22SSV View Post
    This is what happens when you begin to get comfortable with the wife driving the boat as i wakeboard...
    I am old, real old and have NEVER hit a prop on anything...until last weekend at Lake Oroville, where the water is wayyyyyy down due to our lack of rain this season. Saturday morning the launch ramp was real crowded with a couple of people that didn't seem to see the line at the ramp and just left their boats tied up blocking the narrow channel at the ramp. We load our boat and as we are another D!*$ Wad pulls in and dumps their boat in before we can get out of there. I should have just waited (20/20 hindsight!) but I tried to maneuver out of the way and below is the result of my ACME 1617.

    I was surprised how bad it looked as we just kept going and spent the day boarding, and didn't come in until dark. Didn't really get a good look at it until I got home.

    Bent 1617 (5).jpgBent 1617 (4).jpgBent 1617 (3).jpgBent 1617 (2).jpgBent 1617 (1).jpg

    My key is in NO way close to the damage of World's damage, but still upsets me as this was the second outing with this prop.

    1. Is this prop fixable?
    2. Who do I contact to fix it?
    3. Do you guys carry a second prop (and puller) on trips to the lake?
    Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...

    Eric.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Spring, TX
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    I still claim i have never bent a prop and been driving a boat for 20+years since my wife bent this one!! she doesnt like me very much right now. It is absolutely able to be fixed, mine is being repaired and will have it back this weekend. You can probably find someone local but check up and make sure they are reputable. If not send it to Nettles in Austin, TX.
    2008 22SSV Worlds

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Katy, TX
    Posts
    6,368

    Default Prop help!!

    Have to take the rudder off to get that shaft out with the prop attached. Where did this happen at? We saw a boat in the LSJ yesterday that looked just like yours but when we got closer we saw it was someone else


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    David

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    SOLD***2008 Mobius LSV, Gravity III , Wake Plate, Z5, Exile SX65c's, Exile XM9s, Exile XI12D, Exile Javelin, Exile 30.2***SOLD

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