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Thread: Bilge Pump Float Switch
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06-17-2013, 02:22 PM #11
I don't know if a bilge/switch combined unit is going be more reliable as I'd assume the difference would be negligible, but if either goes bad you have to replace the entire unit. With the separate setup, you can replace one or the other if they go bad. However, if I remember right, the switch is around $40 and the unit with both is about $60. You may be better off just going to the entire unit together, both for ease of installation (no separate wiring for the switch) and simple troubleshooting (if it's bad it's bad, take off and replace). Most new boats come with the combined unit, I don't think the separate switch is very common anymore.
I personally think a second bilge is overkill, and I have never been in a situation that needed one. However, I do have a pump for my extra ballast that I could use in a dire situation lol! If you were in a situation that required a second bilge to keep the boat floating from the amount of water coming in, I'm pretty sure you'd have some other serious issues and it would be time to abandon ship!Boats previously owned - 2000 Supra Launch, 2003 Outback, 2006 Mobius LSV
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06-17-2013, 04:48 PM #12
Yea, I know a second bilge pump is overkill but stuff happens and that one time something a little exceptional was going on I would be glad it was there. Even if it was just to buy some time.
The pump in the boat is pretty good, I guess I'll replace the float switch to regain original operation so I don't have to rewire anything.- John
2002 Outback LSV
"A towel, it says, is about the most massively useful thing an interstellar hitch hiker can have."
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06-18-2013, 01:57 PM #13Banned
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John,
You could opt to replace the entire unit, and then upgrade to a bigger one. That would take care of both of your concerns at once.
I think mine is a 500gph unit. Looking online, these draw less than 2 amps, 1100pgh ones seem to be common too, and they appear to be less than 4 amps, so it should be a pretty direct swap without any electrical issues. The outlet is bigger though, so the line and/or thru-hull might need to be enlarged.
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06-24-2013, 05:00 PM #14
I could see replacing the whole assembly for a fully automatic pump. I'm planning on ordering something today. Do the fully automatic pumps have a manual switch option? I would like to retain the "on" "auto" intent of what I have now. If not, what is the best float switch to use? I keep reading they fail all the time (mine did!).
- John
2002 Outback LSV
"A towel, it says, is about the most massively useful thing an interstellar hitch hiker can have."
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06-24-2013, 05:35 PM #15Senior Member
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I added this one to my boat, so I have 2...I have a wet slip and wanted to be able to sleep at night..
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1http://www.instgram.com/jlyons30
2002 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
2006 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
2017 Moomba Craz - Enzos, Lead
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06-24-2013, 05:52 PM #16
Awesome. I just ordered the same pump in 500GPH and plan to install as a second pump with constant power. I'm going to Havasu in July and will be in a wet slip for 3 nights - a good night's sleep was on my mind as well.
- John
2002 Outback LSV
"A towel, it says, is about the most massively useful thing an interstellar hitch hiker can have."
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06-24-2013, 06:27 PM #17Senior Member
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Re: Bilge Pump Float Switch
Protip.. Splice it into the existing wires so you can use the dash switch for both pumps, The constant and switched power wires were reversed on mine..
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2http://www.instgram.com/jlyons30
2002 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
2006 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
2017 Moomba Craz - Enzos, Lead
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06-24-2013, 06:53 PM #18
Thanks for the heads up on the reversed wiring.
- John
2002 Outback LSV
"A towel, it says, is about the most massively useful thing an interstellar hitch hiker can have."