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Thread: Water leak thru prop shaft
05-17-2013, 12:34 PM #1Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Uniontown, oh
Water leak thru prop shaft
I'm getting a steady trickle of water comming between the prob shaft and brass fitting before the hose clamps. Is there a seal that can go bad? What's the fix like? It's enough of a leak to kick the bilge on after a while.Nick
2012 moomba mojo 2.5
2005 Moomba outback-sold
05-17-2013, 03:39 PM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Pensacola, FL
Based on your options: you can re-pack the seal in there. It's fairly easy after you remove the cowling and the rear panel. You could just tighten up the adjusting nuts and see if that reduces/stops your leak. Lastly, you could convert it to a dripless.
While I have been able to repack them and have no leak at all, the manual states that is will leak a few drops per minute.
When I flew the Navy's E-6B, the engines were "allowed" to leak "up to" 30 drops per minute and still be "good". I only saw them leak once and it was in a "greater than 30" flow.
In helicopters: if it ain't leaking, it must be out of fluid.1997 MasterCraft 205
2008 Moomba Outback
1999 MasterCraft Sportstar OB
1992 MasterCraft 205
1999 Malibu Response LX
1987 Marlin Magnum Skier
05-17-2013, 03:52 PM #3
any cons to a dripless? i think i might pick up a dripless drive seal2004 Outback Blue/white w/5.7 indmar 350, Direct Drive
Rockford fasgate cabins
Rockford fasgate 500w amp (cabin) and a kenwood HU (kmr700u)
Polk 10in sub (2)
Polk P330 amp (subs)
05-17-2013, 05:22 PM #4
Water leak thru prop shaft
Yea there is a draw back with having a dripless shaft seal. I personally had to change mine because they wear out just like any other seal. They are more complicated and in my opinion unnecessary. The biggest issue is when they go, they go. So you could be on the lake and fill up pretty quick with water with no way to empty it out. With the rope type seal you can generally tighten the nut a little in case of an emergency.
Also the dripless still drips. Well at least mine does. So if you want a totally dry bilge your out o luck either way.
05-17-2013, 05:42 PM #5Al
2006 Mobius LSV
05-17-2013, 05:45 PM #6
05-17-2013, 05:48 PM #7
The dripless does not drip if its installed correctly and your alignment is within tolerances. So yes , why not have a dry bilge?09 21v LAUNCH
99 Outback LS. Sold
run your engine after you change your oil
68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
05-17-2013, 06:57 PM #8
The boat has about 550 hours on it and I would assume that the shaft seal has never been changed before. That is a long time and I understand that its a wear item but the worst part for me was the fact that it really went all at once. I noticed that my bilge was running a lot so I just happened to take a look and there was a lot of water in there and the shaft seal was dumping in a steady stream of water.
I had Atlanta marine install the new seal but it still leaks a little. I noticed it dripping the other day a little. I would also expect it to hold up to the name of "dripless" but it still leaks. I drive from Atlanta to the SC factory to pick it up so its a factory part literally. I just don't feel like paying another 750+ dollars to have it replaced again.
If I were to order a new boat from the factory I would not buy a dripless seal is all I'm getting at. Everyone has their own opinion on the issue but mine is keep it simple, who cares if you have a little water in the bilge. More then likely you will have a little water in there from people getting in and out of the boat, from life jackets and wet suits holding water, and from the rain that makes it through the cover.
05-17-2013, 07:06 PM #9
05-17-2013, 08:43 PM #10