Aeware remote and sub mounting questions

[J-ROD]

Purchased a 2005 Mobius this winter and decided the factory audio was, well, horrible! Replaced the factory 6.5's with JL Audio 6.5's. Added three amps, Fosgate P1000X1D to push 10" JL W7, and then 2 Alpine 4 channel amps to run the towers and the boat speakers. I also changed the factory head unit with an Alpine CDE-136BT. Question number one: The boat has one of those Aeware controllers on the dash, is there any way to connect that thing to the Alpine head unit? Question number two: I built the box for the JL sub down firing to load off the floor, sounds incredible! I need to screw the box to the floor. Is that ok? If so what size screws and do I need to worry about it stripping the screws out when the water gets rough? Also, I'm jonesin' to get on the water! Never taken this thing out yet! Thanks in advance for any input you all could give me.

[dhyams]

I don't know about the subwoofer, but I'm pretty sure that you need a Kenwood head unit to take advantage of the Aeware remote. I ended up getting a Kenwood HU and it worked fine (the remote didn't work with the old Sony that was in there).

[EarmarkMarine]

J-ROD,
A down-firing subwoofer has a very tactile feel to it. And, of course, you are benefiting from the effect of boundary loading. In order to preserve the sound quality attributes and maximum output in the upper bass you want to elevate the peak of the 10W7 surround at least 2.75" off the sole. That makes the box elevation even higher. That's a good number if the downfiring sub is venting 360 degrees. If the bass radiation is exiting in more of a narrow pattern then you would want to increase the elevation. The idea is to never reduce the woofer's radiating surface area at any point. Doing so will choke the output to a degree and alter the sound quality.
Is it done in vehicles? Sure, all the time. But bass doesn't propagate and dissipate in a vehicle like it does in an open boat, plus, in a boat you are far more dependent on the subwoofer for it's midbass contribution.
As for floor mounting, place a 0.75" depth stop on the drill bit and use a screw that penetrates the sole no more than 0.75". There can be a lot going on under the sole and none of it is good. Also, and this is especially important, do not screw into the sole within several inches of the outside hull. That area is normally coincidental with the hull making a sharp transition from vertical to horizontal. As the sole terminates to the perimeter and into the hull there is very little available depth.

David

[J-ROD]

Thanks guys for the input. I think your correct dhyams on the deck. I wonder if there is another controller out there that would work.
EarmarkMarine (David), thanks a ton for the response. I down fired the sub because I was really worried that that particular sub woundn't sound very good in any other way. They're touchy ya know. Also, I raised the whole box 3.5" off the floor. The box is rather big so that's the highest I could raise it before it starts touching things under the helm. The mid bass is actually pretty decent. i adjusted the x-overs in away that compensated some what for this. Thanks for the input on the screws. I will do what you instructed.
Thanks y'all!