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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Flower Mound, TX
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    1,506

    Default installing a second battery

    ok, I plan on doing this possibly this weekend. I have done a seach on here but I really need it "dumbed down". Does anyone have a really simple diagram they could share?

    Casey
    '08 Mobius LS. Sold
    '18 Craz "TypeO"
    REV10's, Revo6 xss, Kicker10, Kicker 12 CompR, various LED's

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    North End Lake Lanier GA
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    8,155

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chawk610 View Post
    ok, I plan on doing this possibly this weekend. I have done a seach on here but I really need it "dumbed down". Does anyone have a really simple diagram they could share?

    Casey
    You just adding a second battery? No switch?

    Second Battery is simple Positive to positive and Negative to tegative. It will be 1 big 12V battery.

    If your using a Switch system post up the one your using.
    Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
    2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
    [COLOR="#696969"]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Flower Mound, TX
    Posts
    1,506

    Default

    Perko switch... sorry, I thought that was a given.
    '08 Mobius LS. Sold
    '18 Craz "TypeO"
    REV10's, Revo6 xss, Kicker10, Kicker 12 CompR, various LED's

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Lake Houston
    Posts
    656

    Default

    There's an absolutely amazing drawing in the owners manual. I'll see if I can find it electronically.
    2013 LSV
    2005 LSV - SOLD

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Chattanooga, TN
    Posts
    110

    Default

    In my opinion, this is the best way to do it:

    http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ead.php?t=3557

    This is how I've done mine and it works great. It costs you about the same amount of money on the Perko, but it's automatic. So you never have to mess with setting "1" "2" or "OFF" manually.

    This is the relay that you would want:

    http://www.amazon.com/BorgWarner-R30...g+warner+relay

    Although you can probably find it cheaper at O'Reilly's or similar place. It was easy to hook up; just follow the drawing in that thread.
    Last edited by dhyams; 11-07-2012 at 10:05 AM.
    ===================================
    2005 Moomba Mobius LSV

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Flower Mound, TX
    Posts
    1,506

    Default

    Hmmm... does the same wiring apply if their is a switch, not a relay?
    '08 Mobius LS. Sold
    '18 Craz "TypeO"
    REV10's, Revo6 xss, Kicker10, Kicker 12 CompR, various LED's

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Chattanooga, TN
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Yes. The only thing that I can think of that would be different is that you do need to run a wire (say a 16 gauge) from the ACC on your ignition (the purple wire) to the relay, so that it will automatically engage the relay when you turn the key.

    Basically a relay *is* a switch, it's just controlled by another electrical signal (in this case, the ACC terminal on your key), instead of you having to reach in the battery compartment to do it yourself. Convenient.

    And here's a cheaper place to buy the relay:

    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ntent=10711125
    ===================================
    2005 Moomba Mobius LSV

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Chattanooga, TN
    Posts
    110

    Default

    And just to clarify what the relay is doing, it is this:

    1) it is in the "open" state while your key is in the off position. This means you can run your stereo and whatever else you have hooked up to battery #2, while preserving the charge of battery #1. In "Perko" language, the switch is set to "2".
    2) it is in the "closed" state while your key is in the ACC or crank position. This means that whenever you turn your key to crank the boat, both batteries are acting as one big battery. In "Perko" language, the switch is set to "1 and 2".

    Has worked great for me. The only negative possibility is that it is theoretically possible to run down batt #2 so far that when the relay closes, there is a significant draw from batt #1 wanting to charge it that you can't crank. Reading the thread mentioned above, I came to the conclusion that the original poster has physically tested this and it doesn't seem to happen. Even in the case that it *does* happen, all it takes is a simple disconnection of the positive end of batt #2 to the relay, and then you are operating only with batt #1 which should be fresh. Trivial to do in the event that this occurs.
    ===================================
    2005 Moomba Mobius LSV

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Lake Houston
    Posts
    656

    Default

    Page 63......

    There's an even better drawing in the 2013 manual

    http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...G_ESCYRNpXYY6A
    2013 LSV
    2005 LSV - SOLD

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chawk610 View Post
    ok, I plan on doing this possibly this weekend. I have done a seach on here but I really need it "dumbed down". Does anyone have a really simple diagram they could share?

    Casey
    Are you looking to install a house bank or add a second battery in parallel to an existing battery bank? Sounds like you are installing a house bank with a dual battery switch. If so, its fairly straight forward to wire up the switch and new house battery.

    1) Move ALL (*) cables from the existing cranking battery's B+ post, EXCEPT the bilge pump B+, and move it to the switch's "C" post.
    2) with new cable, connect cranking battery B+ post to the switch post "1"
    3) with a new cable, connect the new house battery's B+ post to switch post "2"
    4) with a new cable, connect from the existing cranking battery GND post to the new house battery GND post.

    OFF = all loads isolated from the batteries
    1 = loads pull from cranking battery 1 and alternator charges battery 1 when engine is running
    2 = loads pull from house battery 2 and alternator charges battery 2 when engine is running
    Both = both batteries are combined to each other, all loads and alternator

    Using an ACR or continuous-duty relay only will work, but I prefer to have a manual switch in a boat. The relay setup will not allow you to use the house battery as a backup cranking if needed.

    * ALL loads include the entire audio setup.

    Hope this helps.

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