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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Land O Lakes, Florida
    Posts
    6,377

    Default sub box building question

    after looking at jmvotto's sub box im wondering if I can use the black board that came in my boat as the front portion of a box--basicaly all I would do is add a box the back half. I would be using plywood coated to protect it, but would haveing 2 different materials matter ?
    Hey, Its Moomba time

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

    Default

    Daze,

    Ive done on a number of installs, exactly what you looking to do. I would suggest building the enclosure as a complete box, rather then leaving out the side that would mate with the factory facade. This gives you a lot of surface are to create a sealed, airtight joint between the enclosure and the original facade. I would also use longer screws for the sub so they would bite into the baffle board of the actual enclosure.

    Two different materials will not be an issue. Use a contractor grade exterior/waterproof adhesive between the facade and box. If your carpet is blush enough, you can run in some screws around the outer edge, to aid in the bonding. Or, if your careful and lucky, you can separate the carpet form the factory facade with a putty knife. After you have joined the facade and new enclosure with some counter sunk screws, reattach the carpet with some carpet adhesive and staples on the back side.

    To take it a step further, you can mount the sub to the new box, then cut a larger hole in the factory facade that fits around the OD of the sub grill. This gives the sub a recessed appearance. This is best done when you can get the carpet off so you can cut the large hole in the facade and have plenty of carpet to wrap around the hole to cover the exposed cut.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
    Posts
    7,692

    Default

    Daze, I thought about that too , this way way easier, just built the box seperate and sandwich between with some silicone, etc. its slides into place fairly easy but i doent have that fiberglass floor panel.
    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
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    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Land O Lakes, Florida
    Posts
    6,377

    Default

    getting closer to starting this with crappy weather forcast, how large does the hole for the sub need to be? its a Exile 12"
    Hey, Its Moomba time

    Its all about the dash - enjoy the dash, as that is your time between the dates
    13 Mobius LSV-sold
    08 Mobius LSV-sold
    03 Mobius LSV-sold
    life is about finding the balance between being a responsible adult and staying young at heart

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    2,467

    Default

    Xi or BIG?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
    Posts
    7,692

    Default

    measure the width and subtract the ring plate that the sub will rest on probably a half inch less than the actual diameter.
    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
    A Day in Powder...Endless


    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    887

    Default

    If you are recessing the sub then add enough extra diameter to the outside rim to compensate for the carpet wrap thickness.
    I agree with the parties above. Don't try to bond dissimilar materials. I am completely comfortable bonding ABS or low density HDPE (but not higher density Starboard HDPE) to themselves. One adhesive will not be effective for both.
    But I like the overlay idea on the completed enclosure mentioned above.

    David

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