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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    718

    Default What was that one little hint that fixed your heelside jump to get pop?

    Howdy. I've been here for years, but remained on a stubborn plateau. Basically, I can't do a wakeboard jump very well at all. Wait, correction -- I can and have, but only a few times when I was experimenting with technique, and could not reproduce what I did right.

    I'm looking for you guys to remember what, beyond the obvious of what all the instructional videos and "introduction to jumping" tutorials say, helped you get some really good pop off the wake.

    I've solicited help from better riders, seen The Book and Detention 2012, and even paid a coach (who showed up hung over and underslept). Everyone and everything seems to gloss over exactly what needs to happen in that last yard or two as you are getting to and up and wake. Right now, I am going through the LearnWake.com on-line videos, which do add some drills to the Book DVD.

    One thing that's failed is asking someone to take a video recording of my drills. They get bored, put the camera down by the time that I've barely finished warming up, and miss the few times that I do something better. Repeat, week after week, season after season. For tomorrow, I've secured a promise to video EVERY jump attempt. In the meantime, I can say that my jumps look pretty much like every other beginner video on Youtube, where the poor sap just cannot seem to stand tall at the wake -- bent knees, somewhat absorbing the wake's energy.

    I need to know what the trick YOU found to getting that pop WITHOUT herculean leg strength. As I said above, I've done it, but still cannot figure out what went right.

    Years of "working on it" have not led to success. When I was learning to jump on a hydrofoil, a visiting expert did give me a couple of golden hints that our on-board senior rider never thought to tell me. I'm hoping that this thread will replicate that success.

    I'm looking for very specific, not general, hints. For example "don't attack the wake" is general, while "approach a bit slower with the board pointed X degrees from perpendicular to the boat" is specific. "Fear is ruining you" is general, while "you are hesitating and slowing down just before the wake" is specific.

    Some of the advice that I have received helped with one-wake drills, but not wake-to-wake jumps. The forces are just too high. Something specific and fixable is still wrong and no one has spotted it yet. I am sure that most of you have been in the same spot, so what was that last correction to your technique that helped the most?

    In case any of you have read my past posts: knee surgery succeeded in stopping the deterioration. I'm also adding bow sacs to better balance my XLV, which produces too-steep of a wake when there are too many people on board. So, those technical roadblocks have been addressed.

    Thanks in advance!
    2005 XLV, upgraded ballast, Comptech swivel wakeboard and hydrofoil racks, Monster cargo bimini

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Muskoka, Ontario
    Posts
    427

    Default

    As mentioned in another thread, make sure you don't absorb the energy in your legs. If you approach the wake and let your knees flex you make the jump worthless as you have no pop. If you are having a hard time standing tall at the top of the wake, just try keeping your legs slightly bent, but firm and locked and keep that stance all the way through and see if you can transfer the pop from the ramp into your jump, sometimes its hard for people to time standing tall at the top of the wake and push too soon at the trough and get the same result as absorbing the wake.

    Also another thing, keep on edge all the way up the wake. My brother is one example. He comes in hard but at the trough of the wake he eases up and has lost a ton of energy approaching the wake. He crests on the other side and the landing is hard. You don't need to carve so hard that the spray hits the people in the boat, but keep a nice slow carve at the beginning and slowly increases the tension all the way up the wake. Also shorten the line to get the feeling of wake to wake and gradually increase the length as you get better.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Pensacola, FL
    Posts
    1,585

    Default

    First, you need to repeat hitting the wake. When you practice, start, let the boat get to speed and then hit the wake. There doesn't need to be a "warm up" for falling. Yes, your driver will be picking you up a lot.

    If you REALLY aren't getting it, start jumping 1 wake. Start on the right (or left) wake, board across the prop wash and hit the wake for a jump. While doing this, ensure proper load on the rope, proper posture of the body and legs, and concnetrate on technique that the videos talk about. You won't get as much air as the trough is lower, but it will work.

    Next, shorten your line for wake to wake. The shorter the line, the narrower the wake.

    Practice.
    1997 MasterCraft 205

    2008 Moomba Outback
    1999 MasterCraft Sportstar OB
    1992 MasterCraft 205
    1999 Malibu Response LX
    1987 Marlin Magnum Skier

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    1,049

    Default

    Edge at the wake with your board at a 45 degree angle. Set your edge by leaning against the rope instead of using the fins on the board. Use the whole wake, meaning ride all the way up it and really use the lip of the wake. Also keep the handle in close to your body. One you get some video post it up and it will give us a chance to give you some more specific tips.
    -2012 Supra Launch 21V
    -2008 Mobius LSV

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Pearland Texas
    Posts
    191

    Default

    Learning how to load the line, edging correctly and standing tall with the handle at your hip will get you up in the air.
    Chris H.
    2012 Mojo
    Wake Life

    WS420sq,4 Rev8's,JL Amps,2-TypeR 12's,6-Interior Kicker, Green/White LED

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Central, IL
    Posts
    60

    Default

    The best way for me to retain line tension when cutting towards the wake is the almost drag my ass on the water. Keep that line tight by your hip and lean back/bend your knees as you cut. Always watch the base of the wake as you are approaching it, then push your legs straight (at least close to it) as your rolling up the base. The flatter your board is as you ride up the wake, the better the pop. Also remember to not absorb the wake with your knees....dont use them as shock absorbers. DO NOT let off the line tension (meaning, stay on your edge) or you will likely get no pop, or be way off balance even if you do get the pop you're looking for.


    **I wanted to edit this to say again that I almost have to drag my ass to get the pop/speed needed for wake jumps and tricks. I line up with the boat and allow it to initiate the pull back towards the wake, then I start my progressive cut slowly dropping lower and lower to the water and loading the line. The guys I ride with can tell the instant I start my cut whether or not i'm committed to the trick i'm trying based on where my ass is compared to the water. It will take a lot of watching and experimenting, but maintaining your edge and hitting the wake strong (not mushy) will be the end point you want.
    Last edited by Brando86; 07-29-2012 at 04:51 PM.
    2007 LSV - Brittany Blue - GIII ballast - Alpine CDA-9885 mp3/cd/ipod - Rockford 400.4 ampon the cockpit speakers, Rockford 1000 watt amp powering two 12 inch Rockford subs with Farad Stinger digital capacitor, 4 sets of Rockford component speakers & Rockford bow speakers.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    257

    Default

    Also another thing, keep on edge all the way up the wake. My brother is one example. He comes in hard but at the trough of the wake he eases up and has lost a ton of energy approaching the wake. He crests on the other side and the landing is hard. You don't need to carve so hard that the spray hits the people in the boat, but keep a nice slow carve at the beginning and slowly increases the tension all the way up the wake. Also shorten the line to get the feeling of wake to wake and gradually increase the length as you get better.

    This. I'm not even a good wakeboarder but once I learned to start with a nice slow curve and build tension all the way through the wake, I started easily going w2w. Before I'd cut real hard then try to flatten the board at the top of the wake. I'd lose my angle and just kind of jump. I learned that you should be cutting the hardest at the top of the wake, kind of like on a slalom ski. However, your knees are not shock absorbers like they are on a slalom through the wake, knees should be stiff or even standing up at the wake. Try using half effort as you initiate your turn but build it into a sharper and sharper turn and try to have the board almost straight sideways as you leave the wake. commit.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    North Dakota
    Posts
    164

    Default

    I always load up and begin pushing off near the bottom and 'jump' off the wake. Are you saying to just ramp off the wake organically? It makes sense, because when I begin pushing I'm sure I come off edge???
    2013 Mobius LSV
    2004 Centurion T5

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Skiatook Lake Oklahoma
    Posts
    545

    Default What was that one little hint that fixed your heelside jump to get pop?

    Quote Originally Posted by snyderaaron View Post
    I've always been able to get good pop, but feel that the rope doesn't stay close to my hip in the air. Any ideas?
    Without seeing a video i would say your edge is taking you away form the boat thus not allowing you to keep the handle close. If you relax the edge a little that may give you a little more control on the handle as well as more pop because your energy will be a more upward motion rather than away.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Todd
    2017 SUPRA SA450

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