How to make functional a basic setup

[Waynes345]

OK, so the kids have been bugging me for tunes while they surf. I run a shoestring operation here so just trying to set up something basic that makes noise. I picked up a couple Pyle tower speakers and and a 2 channel amp and a second battery. Just trying to figure out how to set it up. Do/can I run positive and ground direct from the battery? I wired it up on the floor just to check before I started drilling and I have the power antenna lead from the head unit going to Remote On on the amp. RCA cables from head unit to amp. Speakers wired from amp. When I power on the head unit, the amp lights flash, but nothing. Any idea what I'm doing wrong? Thanks.

[MLA]

Since you are adding a 2nd battery, I would suggest getting a multi-battery switch also. This will allow you to isolate the main cranking from the house (stereo) loads while playing with the engine off.

Do/can I run positive and ground direct from the battery

Yes and no. With a single battery setup, the POS and GND cabling does need to terminate at the battery with proper circuit protection in the POS cable just off the battery. I prefer a marine rated manual reset braker, but a typical automotive amp fuse holder will do. The cabling needs to be of suficiant gauge to support the loads. The circuit protection also needs to be, but not exceed the capacity of the cabling.

I have the power antenna lead from the head unit going to Remote On on the amp

Just and FYI, on many head-units, the antenna wired goes dead when on any other mode but tuner. you head-unit may have a second (blue/white) wire that is dedicated amp turn-on

RCA cables from head unit to amp

Yep!

Speakers wired from amp. When I power on the head unit, the amp lights flash, but nothing. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Battery voltage? How is the your second battery wired up to the boat?. Are you plugged into a set of outputs on the head-unit and not AUX inputs? How are the speakers wired?

[Waynes345]

Since you are adding a 2nd battery, I would suggest getting a multi-battery switch also. This will allow you to isolate the main cranking from the house (stereo) loads while playing with the engine off.

I purchased a Perko switch, haven't installed it yet. Like I said, I was just trying to make sure everything worked before permanently installing.

Yes and no. With a single battery setup, the POS and GND cabling does need to terminate at the battery with proper circuit protection in the POS cable just off the battery. I prefer a marine rated manual reset braker, but a typical automotive amp fuse holder will do. The cabling needs to be of suficiant gauge to support the loads. The circuit protection also needs to be, but not exceed the capacity of the cabling.

I just had the second battery sitting there (isolated) and heavy gauge cable (6 or eight) run from the positive and negative terminals on the battery to the positive and ground connections on the amp for testing. I'm still not clear how to connect the batteries ultimately though.

Just and FYI, on many head-units, the antenna wired goes dead when on any other mode but tuner. you head-unit may have a second (blue/white) wire that is dedicated amp turn-on

My head unit only has Red, Black, Yellow (memory) and Blue for power antenna. If the blue is only on in Tuner mode (I'm sure I tested in Aux mode), that might explanin my biggest problem of why it's not coming on. I've got an unsed Accessory toggle, woud I be able to wire from there and turn it on manually?
Yep!
Yes, those are output RCA plugs. Also have an unused one for sub

Battery voltage? How is the your second battery wired up to the boat?. Are you plugged into a set of outputs on the head-unit and not AUX inputs? How are the speakers wired?

I didn't check the battery voltage, but it's a brand new deep cycle with a full charge. I verified that the RCA plugs are in fact output. The two tower speakers are wired from the amp to the like conection on the speaker. That's probably the only thing I am sure about.
Thanks again for any help. I hate electric work.

[MLA]

Ok, you can bypass the the suspect turn-on circuit by jumping right from the amp's B+ terminal to the amp's remote turn-on terminal. See if it powers up with a steady light. If the light still flashes, then power down, remove the speaker wires and power back up. Now see if you have a steady light.

The amp light(s) should be steady and not flashing. This could be due to low voltage. Although your battery is new, what is the voltage level? batteries can often sit on a shelf for awhile and dissipate over time.

Lets make the system functional before moving on to the switch and 2nd battery.

[Waynes345]

Ok, you can bypass the the suspect turn-on circuit by jumping right from the amp's B+ terminal to the amp's remote turn-on terminal. See if it powers up with a steady light. If the light still flashes, then power down, remove the speaker wires and power back up. Now see if you have a steady light.

The amp light(s) should be steady and not flashing. This could be due to low voltage. Although your battery is new, what is the voltage level? batteries can often sit on a shelf for awhile and dissipate over time.

Lets make the system functional before moving on to the switch and 2nd battery.

OK MLA, you the man. I tried what you said and got the amp on. I then used the open accessory toggle to power it up. Works great. Kids couldn't be happier, though my wife is questioning my sanity. Now for the second battery and connections to the Perko switch.

[MLA]

Ideally, we want the head-unit to turn the amp(s), on, but if the antenna lead doesnt work, a simple toggle will do.

Switch and battery bank: the GND of battery-2 needs to be connected to the GND of battery-1. I would suggest 1/0 gauge.

ALL the cables currently connected to the POS post of the original battery, except the auto bilge B+, need to be relocated to the "C" post fo the switch. This includes the amp(s) and all stereo gear also. Then, connect battery-1 POS to the switch post "1" and the POS of battery-2 to the switch post "2".

All loads will draw from which ever battery you have the switch selected to. In return, the alternator will charge which ever battery the switch is selected to.