Results 11 to 20 of 28
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06-12-2012, 10:45 PM #11Senior Member
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- Aug 2008
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- Cottage Grove, MN
- Posts
- 780
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06-13-2012, 03:39 PM #12
JGP - did you get your drain pumps priming and working consistently yet? I had similar issues with hit-and-miss performance. The angle of the outlet on the drain pump plays a big part in it not airlocking and allowing it to prime correctly.
So when is this "old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
2001 MobiusV - Slightly Modified...
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06-13-2012, 03:49 PM #13Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Cottage Grove, MN
- Posts
- 780
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06-13-2012, 04:08 PM #14
Pretty solid now - say 90% of the time. I first had them installed like this below. Basically the opposite of how you want them so taking the advice of Wakemakers I rolled them 180 so the pump outlet is on top and they work good now.
My only challenge in getting them to work 100% of the time is that the bags are too big for my compartments (still haven't ordered the custom ones yet) and they will bunch up and cause problems on occasion.So when is this "old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
2001 MobiusV - Slightly Modified...
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06-13-2012, 07:18 PM #15Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- Kerr Lake, VA via Durham, NC
- Posts
- 80
No not consistently. Right now the fool proof way to drain is fill them all the way up until it flows out the vent and flip it on. I plan to change the angles of the drain pumps this weekend and see how that goes. Did you keep the 90 degree elbow on the drain pump outlet when you turned it upward? Also, do you think pump proximity to the bag has anything to do with it? We were thinking of putting the drain pumps right next to the bag.
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06-13-2012, 09:14 PM #16
Yes - kept the 90 fitting on it. On my fill pumps I am using straight fittings to save space. Just having that outlet on the top so the air gets pushed out is the trick. I have been told having the pump the closer the to bag the better. In my setup I have a few inches of hose in there and it works for me.
So when is this "old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
2001 MobiusV - Slightly Modified...
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06-13-2012, 10:35 PM #17Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Cottage Grove, MN
- Posts
- 780
For what it's worth, I use Rule 1100's as my drain pumps on my rear bags (1100 lb'ers) and I just have the pump laying in the rear of the locker, with just enough hose on it to fit the fly-high quick connect to the drain port of the bag. Since I did that, there's never been a time when they didn't start draining as soon as I hit the switch.
2006 Outback V - Gone
2008 LSV - Gone
2013 other brand
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06-25-2012, 10:07 AM #18Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- Kerr Lake, VA via Durham, NC
- Posts
- 80
boat1.jpgboat2.jpgboat3.jpg
Here are some pictures of the two pumps we added. The thru holes are on either side of the paddle wheel and the one closest to the bow is beside the depth finder (I think that's what that is).
I moved the drain pumps in the rear so that the outlet of the pump is facing upwards. Haven't had a chance to test it on the water yet unfortunately.
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07-09-2012, 06:19 PM #19Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Cottage Grove, MN
- Posts
- 780
When installing new intake thru-hulls, do you need to smooth (i.e. sand) the inside of the hull where the nut will make contact? The inside of the bilge has a black somewhat rough coating on it.
2006 Outback V - Gone
2008 LSV - Gone
2013 other brand
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07-09-2012, 06:28 PM #20Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- Kerr Lake, VA via Durham, NC
- Posts
- 80
We did not do any sanding. Just made sure to use plenty of sealant and made sure they were tight. Have it on the water 3-4 weekends now with no problems.
Joey
2007 LSV
Gravity III w/ 750's and IBS, Acme 1433
WS-420SQ, Kicker KM6500.2, JL e4300, JL 12w6v2, JL e1400D, Polk db651s, JL JX360/4