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Thread: Cutting and Crimping 2/0 Gauge
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03-17-2012, 06:13 PM #1Member
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- May 2010
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- North Dallas, TX
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Cutting and Crimping 2/0 Gauge
I have read a lot on these battery installations and not 100% confident in what I am doing. I bought a switch that can go to 1, 2, or both. I am hooking all the wires in like in the directions and the 2/0 gauge + wire from the engine is the one making me nervous. For it to fit on my switch, I need to cut the terminal off and put a 2/0 end with a 3/8 circular connector. I really don't want to cut this if I don't need to, but don't know any other way. Does anyone have any suggestions on getting around this? Also, I would rather not have to buy a big wire cutter and a crimper. Suggestions here would be appreciated.
2006 Mobius LSV
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03-17-2012, 07:15 PM #2
I used a scissors to cut the wire and a vise grips to crimp the connector on.
-2012 Supra Launch 21V
-2008 Mobius LSV
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03-17-2012, 08:20 PM #3
A cheap alternative is a hacksaw to cut, and a hammer and piece of 2x4 to crimp. It won't be pretty, but it will get the job done.
Another alternative is to buy set screw rig terminals, rather than crimp.2013 Outback V
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03-17-2012, 08:50 PM #4
A hacksaw is a good way to cut large gauge wire, as well as a rotary tool with a metal cutting disk.
For attaching the terminal lug, I would suggest soldering it over a crimp.
Here is a nice YT showing how to do it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs
If you need to do this in the boat. I use vise-grips to hold the terminal an place it on a block of wood. Instead of a torch, I use a heatgun.
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03-17-2012, 10:21 PM #5Member
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- North Dallas, TX
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Thanks guys. I will give the hacksaw and 2x4 a go.
2006 Mobius LSV
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03-18-2012, 12:16 AM #6
I took mine down to the local battery dealer which was a mile away. For $1 an end he cut & crimped my lugs on the 1/0 cable with a hydraulic crimper.
2007 Mobius LSV
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03-18-2012, 09:22 AM #7
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03-18-2012, 10:42 AM #8Member
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- May 2010
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- North Dallas, TX
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I like Razz's idea as well, but just don't want to take out the cable and fish it back into the boat. I may do it just to make sure it gets done right. I have a week to think about it. I loved the soldering video as well. Very clean looking.
2006 Mobius LSV
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03-18-2012, 11:08 AM #9
Hgv - I'd second Razz's idea of taking to a battery shop. MLA's video is a good one but unless you already have a torch and solder pellets and flux, your buying a bunch of stuff. The key to solder is making sure you have enough flux applied to the copper conductors and not OVER heat it. Doing so can create a resistive connection when it burns off the flux. To little heat and you run into the opposite problem. A proper solder joint will offer more surface contact.
On the crimp subject, make sure it gets crimped with a real crimp tool. The oversized crimp (hammer style) actually drive the metal sleeve back down into itself creating a physical pinch and not just a compression joint around the whole outside. So for a 1.00, I don't think you can beat the battery shop.
-Brian
Exile Audio
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03-22-2012, 03:27 AM #10Junior Member
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- Jun 2010
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Whether you need to cut depends on what you are doing and capabilities you want. If you just want to add a house battery that can parallel to start the engine if needed there is little reason to cut into the 2/0 engine run. Just connect up to a free post on the existing battery.
Your arguably a little better off being able to select the battery you want to use vs. separate or parallel only options to isolate a bad battery with an internal short..etc. With most 1,2 switches you also get a bonus "off" switch to the engine.
Personally I don't see the benefit in cutting into the engine run. You could isolate the battery manually if you really needed to and the existence of the "off" position to a curious guest while the engine is running can blow the voltage regulator.