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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    234

    Post '08 LSV GIII upgrade to Johnson Pumps

    So I finally finished my Johnson Reversible Pump Ballast Upgrade from GIII on my 2008 LSV. I had previously followed Fman’s Tsunami upgrade and it just didn’t work well for me. I know it can be done well as others here have, but I just couldn’t get it right. This is also my first attempt at a “How To” thread so please bear with me and let me know what I could do to make it better for next time. (Newty I kinda used some of your threads as a template, hope you don’t mind.)

    Resources included:
    Jester’s – “GI to GIII with reversible pumps, 08 OBV”


    My thread to ask questions from our great and knowledgeable members. – “Reversible ballast pump locations on '09 or newer LSV?”


    And of course Jason at Wakemakers.com



    Parts I ordered from Wakemakers.com:

    4 – Johnson Ultra Ballast Reversible Pumps
    3 – 1” Bronze Thru-Hull Intakes
    1 – ¾” Stainless Steel Barbed Thru-Hull (For the new IBS vent)
    3 – 1” Bronze Ball Valves
    3 – 1” Thread x 1” Hose Barb Fittings
    1 – ¾” Thread x 1” Hose Barb Fitting (Goes into the ¾” Ball valve that came stock on my boat as I am reusing it.)
    4 – Fly High 1” Flow-Rite Quick Release Connect W743
    4 – Fly High 1” Elbow Flow-Rite Quick Release Connectors W746
    Plugs for the unused drain holes in you bags.
    50ft – 1” Ballast Hose Black
    14 - 1” Stainless Steel Hose Clamp (Just buy them from Lowe’s or wherever. The ones from Wakemakers broke with the slightest pressure applied to tighten them.)
    15ft – ¾” Ballast Hose Black (Bought this but didn’t need it, as the ¾” thread to 1” barb worked great.)
    90ft – 12 Gauge 2 Conductor Marine Pump Wire
    8 – 12 Gauge Crimp Butt Connector (Order a few extra, if you mess one up you’ll have to go get another one.)
    21 – 12 Gauge Female Crimp Terminal (Order a few extra also.)
    1 – Extra Ballast Switch

    Parts I got From Lowe’s, Radio Shack, Fry’s and West Marine:

    16 - Stainless Steel Hose Clamps.
    16 – Stainless Steel Round head bolts, washers, lock washers, wing nuts and nylon lock nuts. I cannot remember the sizes, just take the rubber vibration mounts and inserts that come with the pumps to Lowe’s and get ones that fit tight and are about 2” long.
    25ft Roll - 14 Gauge Red Wire (Power)
    25ft Roll – 14 Gauge Black Wire (Ground)
    1 – 14 Gauge Fused Red Wire (comes with 30 amp fuse, but you need 20amp.)
    4 – 20amp Fuses
    Solder
    Various sizes of heat shrink tubing for electrical connections. (Try to get the kind with adhesive lining, which is better protection for water exposure.)
    Safety Glasses
    3M 4200


    Tools I used:

    Drill
    3/16” Drill bit to start the holes for the hole saw.
    1 1/4" hole saw for the 1” Thru-hulls
    1 1/8" hole saw for the ¾” Barbed Thru-hull used for the new vent in the starboard side of the boat.
    Blue Painters Tape
    Dremel Tool with a small tube-style sanding bit. (Used this to feather the holes in the hull and protect the gel coat.)
    5/16” Nut Driver
    Wire Cutters & Crimpers
    Soldering Iron
    Razor knife to cut the ballast tubing.
    Cresent Wrench (12”)
    Needle Nose Vice grips (I used these to hold the new intakes from inside while it was being tightened. Some people have used wrench handles and other things.)
    Beer is optional…. I did it stone cold sober… Was wishing I had some beer…

    ------Sold-------
    2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    234

    Default

    I decided to drill all the Thru-Hull holes first, and then I could find the best location for the pumps in relation to the new Thru-Hull fittings.



    Start inside the boat and find the areas that give you the most area to work with. Measure it twice just to be sure, then take a deep breath and drill your first hole. Once done crawl under the boat and it should look something like this. If you mess up at this point it is still OK as you can easily patch a small hole. You will notice in this image that I have already grinded down the factory ¾” strainer when I did the Tsunami upgrade. There are several threads on how to do it so I will not get into it here.



    Get you Blue painters tape and put a couple of pieces over the pilot hole. Bring your drill and 1 ¼” hole saw with you. Make sure to start the drill slowly in reverse or you will take big chunks of gelcoat off with the hole saw. I drilled mine half way through with the hole saw in reverse then switched to forward to finish the job.



    Next pull the tape off and use the Dremel tool or drill with a small tubular sanding bit to feather/bevel the edges so the gelcoat will not crack when you tighten the thru-hull fitting.



    Then repeat the process for as many new intakes that you will have. I am using 4 - pumps, 3 - 1” intakes and my existing ¾” factory thru hull. I could have used the factory hull and just put another 1” intake and filled the screw holes but just didn’t want to mess with it. I decided to have three holes on one side and one on the other, due to space and the locations of the raw water intake, paddlewheel and depth finder mounted by the factory.

    ------Sold-------
    2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    234

    Default

    Here are what the holes look like from the inside.






    Now its time to install the new 1” thru-hulls. Have someone wait in the boat with a large (12”) crescent wrench to put the nut on the new intake and tighten it down, while you are under the boat. Put the 3M 4200 on the flange and put each one in and have your friend in the boat tighten the nut from the top. I put the 4200 on the intake flange and the nut flange just in case. Use your finger to wipe the extra 4200 from around the fitting like you would when caulking a bathtub. Take a rag with you to clean up the excess 4200 from your hands. Then let it dry for a few hours if its hot out or a day if its cold.

    ------Sold-------
    2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    234

    Default

    Next up is drilling the extra vent hole for your IBS or fourth bag if you have one. If you are only doing three bags then you can skip this step. You will follow the steps almost the same as the ones under the boat.


    To start get your drill and the 1 1/8” hole saw then measure the distance between any two existing drains thru-hulls you have on the boat so it will look symmetrical when your finished. If you don’t have two original drains next to each other then you can decide how close you want them to each other. My rear ones were really close together so I had to do the front ones the same so they will look right. The only difference with this one is that I did all my drilling from the outside so I could match the other one. Use your tape, center the fitting and measure twice. You will have a little leeway with the fitting since you can still move it about a ¼” in each direction once its in and before the 4200 dries. Yes I use the 4200 on all of my thru-hulls cause we have gotten water in the boat from those spots when weighted for surfing.







    ------Sold-------
    2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    234

    Default

    Now I moved on to installing the Johnson pumps. There are many places to install your pumps and all of them have their advantages. I just chose to install mine in these places to make my life easier. It’s best to look around on the forums and see what others have done, then get in your boat with one of the pumps and try holding it up in a few places.


    First I removed the carpeted panel under the rear seat cushion and above the bilge access to expose the fiberglass wall. If you don’t have this carpeted panel not to worry you won’t be able to see the screw holes anyway when the rear set is back in place.



    Hold up the pump on the outside to mark your screw holes. I held the top of the motor flush with the bottom of the backrest off the seat. It is slightly toward the center to avoid being to close to my fuel intake lines.

    ------Sold-------
    2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    234

    Default

    Drill the holes.




    Mount the pump on the backside using the stainless steel screws, washers, lock washers and nylon lock nuts. It should hang low enough that you can access the hose connections and the impeller if necessary.


    ------Sold-------
    2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    234

    Default

    Repeat the process for the second pump. If you are only doing three pumps you could mount them all here. If you are doing all four then only mount two here. I will plumb these two pumps to my ski locker sac and IBS.



    ------Sold-------
    2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    234

    Default

    Next its time to mount the last two pumps to the engine side of the ski locker wall next to the back of the rear seat. As before hold the pump on the ski locker side to drill the holes. Mount them as high as you can without occluding the passage on the side for the fuel hoses etc.





    Notice I used the stainless steel wing nuts on these since they will have to be removed to access the impellers if needed.


    Repeat this process on the other side to mount the last pump. These pumps will fill/empty the v-drive locker sacs.

    ------Sold-------
    2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    234

    Default

    Now you can start the plumbing process. Go ahead and mount the ball valves and insert the threaded hose barbs on each one. Then run the 1” ballast hose from each one to each pump. I used the factory ¾” thru-hull for my ski locker sac since it’s the smallest bag I have. Don’t worry about which side of the pump you rune the hose to. If its not the right side you just reverse the wiring on the switch and the pump will run the other way. Just run it to the most convenient side.





    If you had the GIII originally you can just follow the mounting that they used from the factory. I started from where the sac is located with the 1” ballast hose in a big roll then run the hose back to the pump, that way I don’t cut the hose to long or to short. When putting the Quick Connects in the hose you will need a heat gun to soften the hose. The hose is 1” I.D. and the fittings are 1 1/8” O.D. makes it a fun process but a little heat goes a long way.

    ------Sold-------
    2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    234

    Default

    No these two pumps are not plumbed together it just looks that way.








    ------Sold-------
    2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.

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