Prop Shaft Coupler Removal

[kaneboats]

The service manager I talked to yesterday at the dealer said they take the V-drive out when they change a shaft. "It's only 6 bolts". I'd rather not do that and just work around it if possible. He also gave me his personal cell phone # in case I have a question. Decent guy. If you think of anything else you would add, please post up. Doc is headed to Europe and won't be readily available.

[squeeg333]

I was talking to Doug a little bit ago, and he said he wouldn't hesitate to pull the v-drive out of one of these. He said he's seen several pulled out, and it is quite easy. If I were a shop, I'd do the same thing, since it would be 1,000 times easier. You just would need a lift of some sort - not sure how much a v-drive weighs. But, really, doing it with the v-drive in place isn't that bad, it's just inconvienent.

I think I mentioned it already, but I would highly recommend pulling the cooling line from the scupper to the v-drive out. It wil give you a bunch more room to maneuver down there. There wasn't anything I removed from the starboard side of v-drive to make it easier, so did most of the tightening/loosening on the one side. This line is kind of tough to get off the scupper, but it will come off. I got a screwdiver inbetween the hose and the barbs on the scupper, and was able to wiggle it loose. It goes back on pretty easily.

Also, when pulling the shaft thru, just go easy when passing thru the dripless seal, and I'd recommend a thing towel between the shaft and rudder - I have a minor scuff on the rudder from the shaft. Not a big deal, but still.

When I pulled the coupling off, I used all-thread (the bolts will work fine). But I would tighten about and eighth of a turn, and then spin the shaft to the next bolt. I think I made two revolutions of the coupler before it popped off. It'll scare the poop out of you when it pops, and make sure the coupling nut is still threaded on the shaft a few threads, to catch it when it comes off.

Other than that, I think you'll be good man. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

[DOCDRS]

The service manager I talked to yesterday at the dealer said they take the V-drive out when they change a shaft. "It's only 6 bolts". I'd rather not do that and just work around it if possible. He also gave me his personal cell phone # in case I have a question. Decent guy. If you think of anything else you would add, please post up. Doc is headed to Europe and won't be readily available.

Its only 6 bolts , the hoses and the pressure switch connections. make sure you don't hit the switch as you could break it or cause oil leak. Make sure you have at least 6 inches to pull the unit forward out of the the transmission. On mine there was only 3 inches clearance so the floor had to be removed to provide more and the capt chair had to be removed to remove the floor. The v drive weighs about 50 lbs one guy can handle it since you would only have to place it somewhere in the boat. Hopefully your gas tank is not in the way when you are pulling the shaft out this way, mine had a notch in it specifically so you could take the shaft out this way. My shaft has been removed both ways and I say thru the rudder I would say is easier. when replacing the dripless seal you have to remove the coupler , you don't remove the vdrive and shaft and replace the seal from the prop end, you do it all with the vdrive in place. So I guess why would you take the vdrive out? just my opinion.

[kaneboats]

I think I agree with you. If I can take the bolts out and remove the coupler without taking it out I see no reason to do so.

[DOCDRS]

I think you could have that as your back up plan. Not sure how much room you have on the LSV

[kaneboats]

I may have found my vibration. All of the drive shaft bolts were left loose by the guy at the dealer. I could turn them with my fingers. I also found his tools, a ratchet, socket and end wrench in the bilge. Right now the plan is to do the alignment, tighten everything back up and water test tomorrow. I may be all done and have a spare shaft just to hang on to. You guys are the best!

[DOCDRS]

amazing.........

[squeeg333]

Kane, I had the same issue when I did a very thorough winterizing last fall. Found all four bolts were loose. This wasn't a cause of vibration for me, at least I didn't notice a vibration, but this sounds like it is a fairly common occurance. I replaced my bolts once I found this, just to be sure they were in tip top shape. I found that all four had been worked back and forth enough to flatten the threads that were inside the coupling. Just not a good feeling for sure to find those all loose. Let us know if that cures it for you - and luckily you've got a back up plan if not!!
If you do decide to replace these bolts (I would recommend it) make sure to use some anti-sieze on the stainless threads. I had one gall on me enough that I had to cut it out... not a fun thing to have to do with the limited space. I got my bolts from McMaster - so maybe lesson learned.
Good luck man!

[kaneboats]

When I first threw the backup prop on -- I was pretty sure the strut was bent-- I could only go about 1200 RPM without getting a vibration. So, I took it in. They put the strut on and I dropped it in. It would go to almost 3000 RPM before I really felt a vibration -- but it was there. That's how I became fairly certain the shaft was bent. Now, seeing all four bolts only just finger tight I have to believe there could be vibration at higher RPM just from that. Anyway, I loosened the bolts further but I could not get the smallest feeler gauge in at any point around the coupler. I even climbed out and yanked on the prop to see if I could loosen it a little from the coupler but still could not get the feeler gauge in anywhere all the way around.The shaft turns easily all the way around and everything looks perfect. It was getting pretty late so I decided to just tighten everything up and I'll give it the water test tomorrow. The only bad thing is that it's 45 min. to the water. Oh well.

[DOCDRS]

You have to free the shaft coupler from the vdrive plate. Either your 4 bolts were not loose enough or the coupler vdrive plate is frozen. I have found that with the nuts backed off 1/4 inch just start the motor and just pop it into forward and then shut it down. no damage to motor as only run for 3 secs and the torque should free the two coupler plates. You can't properly check alignment until these plates are apart then pulled back together and held tight by hand while you use the feeler gauge.