Trailer Bunks

[rdlangston13]

While replacing a seized up brake caliper on my trailer it came to my attention that bolts/screws that screw into the bottom of the trailer bunks to hold them on the trailer we all about 1/4 to 1/2 the way falling out. I went around and tried to tighten them and it seems like the wood is just rotted and none of them would go in. I have decided to replace all the bunks and hardware when I get home and have a few questions about carpet.

I was talking to one guy who owns a boat repair facility and he said that he prefers to double wrap the bunks with carpet to prevent the carpet from tearing. My question is has anyone ever had a problem with their trailer bunk carpet tearing? And also, should I be able to reuse the carpet that is on the trailer right now? The carpet looks to be in decent condition and west marine charges an arm and a leg for trailer bunk carpet. It will run me 130 bucks for carpet alone for this project.

My plan is to drill mounting holes straight through the wooden bunks and use bolts washer and nuts instead of the crappy wood screws. This way I can secure the bunk from the top and bottom instead of just the bottom. I plan to use a router to make a recessed area in the bunk to so the head of the bolt will no contact the bottom of the boat. By putting the bolts in from the top and the nuts on the bottom it should prevent the bunks falling off even in the event of the nut falling off.

Also does anyone know the size of the wood screws that go into the bunks? I have to buy all the hardware before I go work on it and I wont see my boat till next Wednesday to check it.

[bergermaister]

Hmmmmmmmmmm

My bunk carpet is 10yrs old - never torn but worn thin in a few places to the point where it looks like it could tear. It's tough stuff though.

Question on your channeled design there. If you are going to bolt the bunks down, then carpet them so the bolt heads are not exposed, what do you do if you need to tighten them up at some point? Cranking that nut will likely get to the point where the bolt itself spins too - only be able to get it so tight without getting a wrench on the bolt head, but it's hidden under the carpet.

May not be an issue if the bolt head sinks into the wood and bites. I suppose you could peel up the carpet to get to it but what a pain. ???

[rdlangston13]

Hmmmmmmmmmm

My bunk carpet is 10yrs old - never torn but worn thin in a few places to the point where it looks like it could tear. It's tough stuff though.

Question on your channeled design there. If you are going to bolt the bunks down, then carpet them so the bolt heads are not exposed, what do you do if you need to tighten them up at some point? Cranking that nut will likely get to the point where the bolt itself spins too - only be able to get it so tight without getting a wrench on the bolt head, but it's hidden under the carpet.

May not be an issue if the bolt head sinks into the wood and bites. I suppose you could peel up the carpet to get to it but what a pain. ???

My carpet looks to be in good condition, it is coming loose of the bunks from the staples being pulled out of the wood however. I plan on using thread locker and lock washer so hopefully i wont have to tighten them until the bunks or carpet needs replacing. That is my plan anyways. In the event of one coming loose i guess i could cut an X in the carpet where the bolt head is, access it to tighten it. I dont think my bunks can be any looser than they are now without coming off entirely though... at least with this sytem no matter how loose they get they wont slide off

[bergermaister]

Good plan with the locktight - that ought to hold for a few years! You could do a locking nylon style nut too for good measure.

I power load my boat 99% of the time and try not to do a lot of skidding up or winching across the bunks so I'm sure that helps to prolong their life.

[rdlangston13]

Good plan with the locktight - that ought to hold for a few years! You could do a locking nylon style nut too for good measure.

I power load my boat 99% of the time and try not to do a lot of skidding up or winching across the bunks so I'm sure that helps to prolong their life.

I also plan to apply liquid rollers to the front two bunks and the front half of the middle two bunks. I think this will help when launching and loading the boat. wont have to power it off and on. i hope

[maxpower220]

Seems like a lot of extra work. The carriage bolt design that is used works. If you bolt spins when you try to tighten it, it is telling you that your wood needs to be replaced. Using a carriage bolt and some locktite will prevent the nut from backing off also.

Carpet on the wood is less likely to move and less likely to tear. Once you start stacking carpet, the carpet will move acroos itself. That, would seem, to be more likely to create a tear. Again, every boat trailer maker used the same process. It has worked for many, many decades. No need in changing it now.

[kaneboats]

I have recarpeted and replaced bunks many times. The first thing I would tell you is that there is nothing spectacular about "bunk carpet" other than the price. I go to Lowes and grab the outdoor/porch stuff and have had it last for years, even outlasting original bunk carpet.

[rdlangston13]

I mainly just want to replace the bunks, The carpet seems alright, its just the bunks that are rotted

[bzubke1]

What kind of caliper did you use to replace your seized one? Also where did you get it? I need one.

[rdlangston13]

It came with 4 UNP calipers i believe, I used a Kodiak to replace the right front UNP. It is a slightly difference design but comes with a bracket to make it fit. Its not blue like the rest of mine but it works. It came in a kick with new wheel bearings and a hubbed rotor so I went ahead and replaced everything. I got from a place called Husky Trailer in Houston. Im sure you can find it online somewhere. You can probably find the UNP one that came with it but I did not have time to wait on shipping.