Another Stereo Makeover

[cab13367]

I just finished a minor makeover to my stereo system consisting of the following:

Added third battery
Relocated subwoofer amp
Added power and ground distribution blocks
Added Stinger voltage display for stereo batteries
Added remote LED for ACR
Added in-dash aux input plug
Added iPhone4 mount at the helm
Added JL Audio 7.5V line driver with level control at helm for Exile Harpoon

So here is what it looked like before I got started. The Exile subwoofer amp was mounted to the fresh air chaise and the power and ground cables were connected directly to the stereo batt (it was a mid summer, quickie install); thermal circuit breakers were used on the power cables for the other two amps; negative cables went directly to the stereo battery.



So I took the two batteries out and installed a group 29 125AH battery under the port bow seat as shown. I chose this location because I did not want to lose any space in the cubby under the glove box as that is always packed full of backpacks, lunch coolers, etc. I also added a ground distribution block with 1/0 cable to the battery and 4 gauge to the amps.


Only about half of the battery is visible.


It clears the fiberglass lip by about 1/4".

[cab13367]

I then installed a second group 29 125AH stereo battery and hooked it up in parallel with the one under the bow seat. I used 1/0 cable for the battery jumpers. I reinstalled the group 29 55AH starting battery and hooked everything back up. Note also that the sub amp is gone.


I replaced the thermal circuit breakers with an individually fused power distribution block. Again, I used 1/0 to the switch and 4 gauge to the amps. Note that only one cable is visible to the switch but there are 6 more cables attached to the switch but they come in from behind it so you can't see them.


I added this hidden 20A switch that I will use to take the starting battery off line from the on board charger. This is desirable when both batteries are significantly discharged so that all 20 amps from the charger can be directed to the stereo bank. Once the stereo bank is fully charged, I flip the switch on and the starting battery will get charged. Thanks to David from Earmark for this tip.

[cab13367]

Here is where the sub amp was moved to. This is just aft of the fresh air chaise. It's held on by two screws at the top that go into the rubrail backing strip. I will probably make a second amp rack at some point for the sub amp but this will do for now. The plug is for the on board charger.


Next, I installed a Stinger voltage display at the helm and hooked it up to the stereop batts so that I can keep an eye on how much juice they have left. I installed a toggle switch where the horn's push button reset used to be. Finally, I installed a remote LED that is connected to the ACR so I can monitor what the ACR is doing.


Closer shot of the Stinger voltmeter, the on/off toggle switch, and the green remote LED for the ACR.


Close up of the Stinger.

[cab13367]

Next I installed an aux input jack and a tower level control (actually controls the JL line driver) on the ignition switch panel. I also previously mounted the speedo adjust knob that used to be behind the dash panel. Finally, the sub level control and the Harpoon throttle box control knob were mounted under the dash in this same area.


I like having my iPhone4 at the helm to control the music selection direclty from it so I got a handlebar mount for it and attached it to the windshield support pole. I don't trust suction cup mounts so this seems to be a solid mounting solution.


Close up of handlebar mount. Can also be easily rotated to hold the iPhone in landscape mode. The cord both charges the iPhone and carries the audio signal. This is a much cleaner signal than going thru the 3.5mm headphone jack on the iPhone.


Here is the other end of the cable which actually has two parts - one plugs into the 12V port and the other to the aux input jack.


That's it! I feel like I am well set up now to manage my stereo batteries and keep an eye on the ACR to make sure that it's doing it's job. I also can have my iPhone at a convenient location rather than in the driver's cup holder where I had it all last summer. With 250AH on the stereo bank, I should have lots of play time when anchored in the swim cove.

Al

[moombadaze]

Al, in pic 2 are those hinges I see holding the amp board in place?

[bbuhtz]

Nice clean install, looks good!

[dusty2221]

looking good man.

[jmvotto]

Al, awesome. always raising the bar

[cab13367]

Al, in pic 2 are those hinges I see holding the amp board in place?

Yes. The amp rack is screwed to the rub rail backing strip on top and then secured by hinges at the bottom. I was going to use L brackets but since it's not at a 90 degree angle, I went with hinges. The rack is snug against the side of the boat so the hinges just prevent the bottom from sliding out. It's not invisible like some of the other more elaborate schemes others have devised but with the batteries in place, they are barely noticeable and were very easy to install.

[cab13367]

The stereo batteries are actually group 29, not 27. Could one of the mods please edit this on the first and second post as I can't seem to. Why is it that I cannot edit my first 3 posts? Thx.